SCHWALBE TYRES MEGATHREAD: read this thread before posting new ones
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Mywifesirrational
I however am very normal. Trust me.
106kg and running 27-28psi on the front, no flats no burps, just reliability.
Tried 22psi which ended in tears. On FLex Ex's with 25mm internal width.
Tried 22psi which ended in tears. On FLex Ex's with 25mm internal width.
Yeah mate unless you are on an extremely rocky track and going hard then 22 psi should be fine, Im 89kg and run the 2.35 Hans Damph at 22 psi front, 26psi on a 2.35 Nobby Nic rear with no issues at all on my all mountain tubeless setup.
If your going to hit up some rougher trails then definitely bump them up a bit to at the very least to prevent some rim damage.
At any lower pressure I don't think you would get much notice of an issue I reckon it would just roll clean off the rim especially on a narrow rim.
Schwalbe across their complete range seem to run a stiffer sidewall compared to other tyres which personally I like, their compounds are grippy and wear fairly well.
I switched to Schwalbe on my downhill bike a while ago and was surprised how crap they made the Minions that I was running look. I initially ran the Muddy Marys which where a grippy tyre in most conditions but admittedly they were a touch slow on rolling resistance, so switching to Big Betty I got the grip I wanted and still got some pace.
Tyres and performance are always going to be a subjective matter and for all you youngsters out there Im sure you would sacrifice grip over speed but when your an old fart like me at 53 its nice to know that my rubber is going to get me through a corner when I need it.
Rim width will play a big part of it ie the narrower the rim the more chance of rolling a tyre versus a wider rim allowing more stability, I run Spank Spike rims on the downhill setup at 35mm wide, this allows the stiffer sidewalls on the Schwalbe tyres to let the tread blocks "do the work" of gripping whilst the sidewalls remain fairly stable giving a confident ride.
So overall my 2c you have a great tyre choice there just don't ask too much of your tyre that it may not be able to deliver.
Pete
If your going to hit up some rougher trails then definitely bump them up a bit to at the very least to prevent some rim damage.
At any lower pressure I don't think you would get much notice of an issue I reckon it would just roll clean off the rim especially on a narrow rim.
Schwalbe across their complete range seem to run a stiffer sidewall compared to other tyres which personally I like, their compounds are grippy and wear fairly well.
I switched to Schwalbe on my downhill bike a while ago and was surprised how crap they made the Minions that I was running look. I initially ran the Muddy Marys which where a grippy tyre in most conditions but admittedly they were a touch slow on rolling resistance, so switching to Big Betty I got the grip I wanted and still got some pace.
Tyres and performance are always going to be a subjective matter and for all you youngsters out there Im sure you would sacrifice grip over speed but when your an old fart like me at 53 its nice to know that my rubber is going to get me through a corner when I need it.
Rim width will play a big part of it ie the narrower the rim the more chance of rolling a tyre versus a wider rim allowing more stability, I run Spank Spike rims on the downhill setup at 35mm wide, this allows the stiffer sidewalls on the Schwalbe tyres to let the tread blocks "do the work" of gripping whilst the sidewalls remain fairly stable giving a confident ride.
So overall my 2c you have a great tyre choice there just don't ask too much of your tyre that it may not be able to deliver.
Pete
ChopSticks
Banned
have one on the front
26 x 2.35
weigh 90kg's kitted up, and run it in the low 20's (22-23) as most other people without a single issue!!
26 x 2.35
weigh 90kg's kitted up, and run it in the low 20's (22-23) as most other people without a single issue!!
For the last 6 months I've been running Panaracer Driver Pro 29 2.1s. I replaced RaRa's with these and just love them. Fast but amazing grip, corner well and very predictibly. I think they are definitley grippier than the RaRa's especially when cornering. You just need to trust the front and really get on top of it. If you do that they are unstoppable. I used them to get age group podiums in all the Oz champs rounds this year and 4th at the Nationals so they have performed well at a number of different venues.
They are light, go on easily, set up well tubeless and are relatively cheap. USD39 from Excelsports.
They don't last forever as the knobs are low to start with, but I'm sold.
They are light, go on easily, set up well tubeless and are relatively cheap. USD39 from Excelsports.
They don't last forever as the knobs are low to start with, but I'm sold.
my 2 cents
tough call. very similar tyres.
I've just gone Ikon front and rear on my 29er.
had an icon on the rear of my pivot a while back, but took it off for a muddy event and never got the thing to inflate back onto a Crest rim.
RR quite a bit grippier in loose sand (ie, youies)
Ikons just a touch grippier everywhere else (or if the sand is packed/damp). Ikons for Yarra Trails
Ikons wear heaps better, esp on the rear
Can't get over how much better 2.25rons are over 2.1 for grip/somfort, esp on front
tough call. very similar tyres.
I've just gone Ikon front and rear on my 29er.
had an icon on the rear of my pivot a while back, but took it off for a muddy event and never got the thing to inflate back onto a Crest rim.
RR quite a bit grippier in loose sand (ie, youies)
Ikons just a touch grippier everywhere else (or if the sand is packed/damp). Ikons for Yarra Trails
Ikons wear heaps better, esp on the rear
Can't get over how much better 2.25rons are over 2.1 for grip/somfort, esp on front
Making Ghetto Schwalbe Dual Air Chamber
So I've been thinking of making a ghetto dual air chamber system like the yet to be released Schwalbe/Syntace one:
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/fea...ng-Dual-Chamber-Tire-System-from-Schwalbe,219
Has anyone else tried this?
I assume that I would need to do the following to get it to work:
Install a 26x1.1 tyre (like Schwalbe Durano - it weighs 260g) with a thin 26 tube inside of my normal UST Minion tyre.
Obviously another valve hole would have to be drilled through the rim.
To inflate, I would first inflate the outer UST tyre to the desired pressure with sealant and then inflate the inner road tyre to 80 psi or so.
Obviously to change pressure in the outer UST tyre you would first have to deflate the inner road tyre.
Im guessing that it would be pretty cheap to set up and if it doesn't work, I could always wait for and buy the actual Schwalbe system...
So I've been thinking of making a ghetto dual air chamber system like the yet to be released Schwalbe/Syntace one:
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/fea...ng-Dual-Chamber-Tire-System-from-Schwalbe,219
Has anyone else tried this?
I assume that I would need to do the following to get it to work:
Install a 26x1.1 tyre (like Schwalbe Durano - it weighs 260g) with a thin 26 tube inside of my normal UST Minion tyre.
Obviously another valve hole would have to be drilled through the rim.
To inflate, I would first inflate the outer UST tyre to the desired pressure with sealant and then inflate the inner road tyre to 80 psi or so.
Obviously to change pressure in the outer UST tyre you would first have to deflate the inner road tyre.
Im guessing that it would be pretty cheap to set up and if it doesn't work, I could always wait for and buy the actual Schwalbe system...
ChopSticks
Banned
great idea... but does the weekend warrior really need to lug ALL that weight around?
tubeless systems seems to be very reliable...and unless I'm hitting a UCI WC DH run and need the security of a bomb proof wheel/tyre... then I really see no need for it.
maybe if you do a week long, middle of no where epic, but i highly doubt 99% of RB'ers will see a need for this... even the hard core DH runners
also see an issue with your ghetto set up....
1) not sure how drilling an extra hold in a rim will affect its structural integrity
2) with the outter tyre in the bead... whats stopping the inner tyre from riding up and inflating what whatever shape the tubes takes?
edit: if youre that paranoid about the occasional flat, get some dual ply tyres, a DH tube with removable core and pour sealant into the tube and inflate.
tubeless systems seems to be very reliable...and unless I'm hitting a UCI WC DH run and need the security of a bomb proof wheel/tyre... then I really see no need for it.
maybe if you do a week long, middle of no where epic, but i highly doubt 99% of RB'ers will see a need for this... even the hard core DH runners
also see an issue with your ghetto set up....
1) not sure how drilling an extra hold in a rim will affect its structural integrity
2) with the outter tyre in the bead... whats stopping the inner tyre from riding up and inflating what whatever shape the tubes takes?
edit: if youre that paranoid about the occasional flat, get some dual ply tyres, a DH tube with removable core and pour sealant into the tube and inflate.
Last edited:
mitchy_
Llama calmer
1 - about the same as drilling the original hole for the first valve
2 - the bead does fuck all in terms of radial retention. what's stopping the tyre on your hookless bead rims coming off?
ChopSticks
Banned
1) You're taking more material out of the wheels. If you see no issues with that, then why don't manufactures drill out holes in all the gaps between spokes?
2) nothing is stopping it... thats why I blew the tyre off the rim
No Skid Marks
Blue Mountain Bikes Brooklyn/Lahar/Kowa/PO1NT Raci
Put the road tube in a road tyre inside the DH tyre
moorey
call me Mia
1), you should totally do that. With a Ti drill bit1) You're taking more material out of the wheels. If you see no issues with that, then why don't manufactures drill out holes in all the gaps between spokes?
2) nothing is stopping it... thats why I blew the tyre off the rim
2)that, and over pressurizing. One minute you say you knew the pressure, next you say gauge is broken. :whistle:
ChopSticks
Banned
hand pump has a gauge.... the floor pump doesnt (doesnt work)
