Shimano 1x11 11-46

mtb101

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so going from 1x10 34:11-42 to 1x11 34 or 36 11-46, who can tell me what gains there would be with a 36 11-46 up front compared to 34 11-46 compared to 11-42?

I want to run 36 up front for a bit more top end, but concerned that then gives me a similar set up as 11.42 with 34 and want a bit extra granny as well.

calculator looks like 34 11-42 would be the same as 36 11-46.

what you guys reckon?

beast;
11-46.jpg
 
so going from 1x10 34:11-42 to 1x11 34 or 36 11-46, who can tell me what gains there would be with a 36 11-46 up front compared to 34 11-46 compared to 11-42?

I want to run 36 up front for a bit more top end, but concerned that then gives me a similar set up as 11.42 with 34 and want a bit extra granny as well.

calculator looks like 34 11-42 would be the same as 36 11-46.

what you guys reckon?

beast;
View attachment 334738

Only comment is that the shimano 46-11 is quite heavy and the gaps between cogs are not as fluid as the 42-11 if that matters to you.
 
I've just switched to 11 speed on my new bike.

Buying all the new bits, I thought about 46 on the rear, but in the end I didn't like the look of the jump into the biggest cog.

So I went with the 42, and a 32 front, but one of those oval ones which is meant to feel like a 30 when you're climbing and a 34 when you're cranking. I have no idea whether any of that oval ring sales-pitch is actually working, as I didn't try a regular ring on 11 speed.


Anyway, point is I've never felt the need for the 46. Maybe if I was really exhausted on a long climb at the end of the day, but I suspect at that point I'd be pushing the bike.
 
I run 32 11-46 on the Muru. I was concerned that the 1st / 2nd change would be lousy given the gap but it is actually quite good. Heavy yes but not an issue on a fatbike. And top end is fine again for a beach bike.

Don't let the cassette put you off. Pick the ratios that suit best.
 
How many teeth is the 2nd biggest cog on the Shimano cassette? I went with a Sunrace 11 - 46, which was $80 and works perfectly. Shifting from the 40 to the 46 is effortless. It's heavy, but so is the Shimano and, I suspect, the Eagle (if only they would publish the actual weights like every other Sram cassette...).
 
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calculator looks like 34 11-42 would be the same as 36 11-46 what you guys reckon?

You're definitely going to achieve the goal of an improved top end gear with the 36 upfront but your lowest gears are going to be very similar with both setups.

Gear reduction Ratios

1st gear- set up 34 11-42 = 1.235:1

1st gear- set up 36 11-46 = 1.277:1
 
thanks guys, yes Weight: 410g (11-40T), 433g (11-42T), 439g (11-46T) don't mind that. and 11:42 with 34 up front is fine except in marathon type events with some fatigue, just need a pinch more to save legs.

I'm going to get both a 34 and 36 front ring but reckon 34 will be the go.
 
I went 36 with 11-42 and haven't found anything yet I couldn't ride up. Loving the top end vs super shit 32 11 which spins out effortlessly on remotely flat/decending singletrack when riding at fun speeds. 34 front ring might be a nice middleground depening how fit you are.

If I could get a 11-32 cassette that would fit straight up I would run it with a 34t front. Maybe for my hardtail in the future when I have more excess bits.
 
I went 36 with 11-42 and haven't found anything yet I couldn't ride up. Loving the top end vs super shit 32 11 which spins out effortlessly on remotely flat/decending singletrack when riding at fun speeds. 34 front ring might be a nice middleground depening how fit you are.

If I could get a 11-32 cassette that would fit straight up I would run it with a 34t front. Maybe for my hardtail in the future when I have more excess bits.

Quadzilla, is that you?
 
I went 36 with 11-42 and haven't found anything yet I couldn't ride up. Loving the top end vs super shit 32 11 which spins out effortlessly on remotely flat/decending singletrack when riding at fun speeds. 34 front ring might be a nice middleground depening how fit you are.

If I could get a 11-32 cassette that would fit straight up I would run it with a 34t front. Maybe for my hardtail in the future when I have more excess bits.

New Dura-ace is 32-11 but is a bit expensive to train on...
 
New Dura-ace is 32-11 but is a bit expensive to train on...

Nope, D-A tops out at 30T on the new model; Ultegra & 105 go to 32. But being road cassettes need a suitable hub with longer freewheel body to fit them on, as they're not dished in the back like MTB cassettes.
 
Nope, D-A tops out at 30T on the new model; Ultegra & 105 go to 32. But being road cassettes need a suitable hub with longer freewheel body to fit them on, as they're not dished in the back like MTB cassettes.

Or from what I worked out, drop a cog and run one spacer behind the cassette turning it into 10 speed with 11 speed spacing, or get 1.8mm machined off the back of the carrier to make it work. There is a company in US or CAN (cannot recall) that will sell modified or modify an existing cassette for you. Their main goal is to let people with nice mega expensive older wheels be able to run 11 speed.
 
recentlg switch to 11-40, so moved upfrom oval 32 to oval 34, pretty happy. the 34-11 helps. i can climb most stuff up to 15%+, its the technicality that gets me. have 36 on my cross bike, never need 36-11
 
sure most of us can muscle our way up a climb (even quadzilla as above) its the accumulated fatigue in a race say 100k marathon event or long 10k+ climbs where pushing a harder gear will eventually break you - so nice to have a back up gear to kick into to keep spinning.

I still have the triple on my training bike and when that's adjusted correctly its a great range of gears.

but the snappy, simplicity of 1x10 or 1x11 is pretty nice in race situation.
 
Gearing also depends on wheel/tyre size. The Muru running 26x4.8 is quite bit faster than the 27.5x2.4 Bronson in the same gears.
 
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