Shimano mineral oil?

[Arete]

So i got my 03 4pots today :twisted:. Unfortunately they were in need of a bleed and the levers were around the stupid American way.
I have read numerous reviews stating that the "mineral oil" used in the systems can be easily purchased at hardware stores and supermarkets. However after visiting a hardware and a supermarket and looking stupid asking for mineral oil, I am not in luck.
Am I bound to using shimano oil or is it just called something different here?

 

[Cave Dweller]

Should be able to buy it from a moto shop.

If you are in Sydney i have a newy you can buy.

-Matt

 

[danv]

You are bound to searching, this has been discussed fairly extensively.

But basically fork oil will do the job (go for a light weight) or any light weight hydraulic mineral oil, ask a hydro shop maybe.

 

[Cave Dweller]

I don't think fork oil is the same as mineral oil although i may be wrong.

Just get the shimano stuff. It is not that expensive. Replacing all the damaged seals in the brake is bound to be expensive.

-Matt

 

[Regan]

I'd recommend using only genuine Shimano Mineral Oil. See you LBS.

I’m running 04’ XT twin pots with genuine oil and they work sweet.

 

[Arete]

I did a search an found a whole lot of inconclusive babble about fork oil, sewing machine oil and wrecked seals. I was wondering if anyone had a definitive answer.
Also, It's more a case of ease of acquisition. If I can get a usable fluid from a supermarket/hardware it'll save me a 1 hr round trip. But it seems there's no decent alternative so I'll pick up some genuine fluid tomorrow.

 

[danv]

I don't think fork oil is the same as mineral oil although i may be wrong.

I don't think it is neccesarily, but the fork oil I use IS mineral based, and seems to work fine. My LBS say they use it in their workshop.

I would probably advise the genuine shimano stuff, depending on the price. How much is it?

The only reason I chased substitutes was because genuine Magura oil was $260 a litre :roll: get fucked.

 

[RCOH]

I don't think fork oil is the same as mineral oil although i may be wrong.

I don't think it is neccesarily, but the fork oil I use IS mineral based, and seems to work fine. My LBS say they use it in their workshop.

I would probably advise the genuine shimano stuff, depending on the price. How much is it?

The only reason I chased substitutes was because genuine Magura oil was $260 a litre :roll: get fucked.

I bought 500ml of 'Magura Blood' 2 weeks ago for $40, don't where you shop but I wouldn't be going back there :?

 

[danv]

I don't think fork oil is the same as mineral oil although i may be wrong.

I don't think it is neccesarily, but the fork oil I use IS mineral based, and seems to work fine. My LBS say they use it in their workshop.

I would probably advise the genuine shimano stuff, depending on the price. How much is it?

The only reason I chased substitutes was because genuine Magura oil was $260 a litre :roll: get fucked.

I bought 500ml of 'Magura Blood' 2 weeks ago for $40, don't where you shop but I wouldn't be going back there :?

i admit that figure was skewed a little. At least $13 for 50ml bottles. My shop didn't have any bigger.
But still, $80 is crap.

 

[RCOH]

agreed, 'tis expensive but I had no choice.

 

[WILLY]

I thought Shimano was the only brake manufacturer to use mineral oil, while the rest use Dot fluid?
I dont know the ins and outs of different oils, but im pretty sure you need to use the oil that the brake was designed for, otherwise things can fark up pretty bad.
Check the manufacturers web site for the oil that goes in em, or try emailing hope, i;ve heard they have awesome customer service.
hope that helps!
wil

 

[FuTAnT]

I thought Shimano was the only brake manufacturer to use mineral oil, while the rest use Dot fluid?
I dont know the ins and outs of different oils, but im pretty sure you need to use the oil that the brake was designed for, otherwise things can fark up pretty bad.
Check the manufacturers web site for the oil that goes in em, or try emailing hope, i;ve heard they have awesome customer service.
hope that helps!
wil

Makes good sense actually. Basically there's not much need to be using DOT brake fluid in MTB applications. By not using it you don't have to worry about all the nasty shit that brake fluid does to your paint n all the rest of it etc. Goodo!

 

[chandler_mate]

dont be a cheap ass, just buy the shimano oil

 

[RandomRider]

Yeah, it is a good idea to stick with the genuine shimano stuff, but I had a hard time getting my hands on some. I quick call to Shimano Australia revealed that standard DOT 3 (and by extension DOT 4) fluid works fine. Therefore, most fluid will work ok.

 

[danv]

Yeah, it is a good idea to stick with the genuine shimano stuff, but I had a hard time getting my hands on some. I quick call to Shimano Australia revealed that standard DOT 3 (and by extension DOT 4) fluid works fine. Therefore, most fluid will work ok.

You sure you got mineral oil and not brake fluid :?

agreed, 'tis expensive but I had no choice.

Why not? Did you not consider fork oil/other brands etc. a choice?

 

[wombat]

Yeah, it is a good idea to stick with the genuine shimano stuff, but I had a hard time getting my hands on some. I quick call to Shimano Australia revealed that standard DOT 3 (and by extension DOT 4) fluid works fine. Therefore, most fluid will work ok.

Whoaaa there tiger! Which brakes is this for?

And regarding Royal Blood, I believe I read somewhere that it's actually just 5wt Finish Line fork oil?

 

[Arran]

Dude,

If you follow these instructions you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes at all to swap the hoses over.

*Unscrew the hose fixing nuts from the master cylinders (levers) and keep the hoses pointed upright so as little oil is lost as possible.

*Re-attach the hoses on the correct sides (firmly but not too tight) to the master cylinders.

*Loosen the lever anchor bolts and rotate the levers until the tops of the reservoirs are parallel from the ground.

*Remove the reservoir caps and gently 'flick' the hoses until any bubbles in the line have worked their way to the top.

*Re-attach the reservoir caps. The rubber compensating seal under the caps should accomodate for any oil loss during the procedure (providing you didn't lose too much!). Shimano hydraulic brakes are more often than not over-full (putting pressure on the compensating seal) from new so you should be okay.

 

[danv]

And regarding Royal Blood, I believe I read somewhere that it's actually just 5wt Finish Line fork oil?

Das is correct yah.
And when I enquired about this, my LBS just told me what they use, and gave me that.
The finish line oil was the "closest match" Magura found to the real Royal Blood which couldn't be exported to Europe and other places for some reason. Both are made by Shell though I think :roll: I think it just supports the argument that it doesn't really matter much. I mean seals will last what, 7 yrs max? Probably significantly shorter. The additives will just improve/worsen seal life.

 

[Arete]

Dude,

If you follow these instructions you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes at all to swap the hoses over.

I didn't know that.

Still, you are going to have to top up the master cylinder, and if you're going to compromise a hydraulic system by opening it at the cables, it's not that much extra effort to bleed it. Considering the front brake needed a bleed anyway I may as well do it.

 

[Juls]

My local Bike shop quoted me $17 for the little 50ml bottles, or $39 for 1 Litre

so I just bought the litre.

I figure i'll get a heap of rebuilds from that.

I think Shimano use Mineral oil because it's environmentally freindly,
I'd be surprised if you could use Dot 3/4 in the new brakes, as the seals might not be designed for it, in the XT 2003 they where just Grimeca's basically, And Grimeca/XSIV use Dot 3/4.

The Dot stuff is nuts though, will strip the paint off your bike in no time flat! Be very careful!!

Prolly just as easy to use Mineral.

Regards
Juls