Shock Oil - Manitou Swinger 6 Way

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Hi All,

Does anyone know of the appropriate grade oil to use in a Swinger 6 Way?

I can't find any reference to ISO Grade or cSt in the Manitou Service Manual.
http://www.birota.ru/manuals/manitou/swinger/04-swinger-sm.pdf

The (limited amount of) oil thats left in there is seriously thin. I compared it to ATF & Power Steering Fluid but it seems to be substatnially thinner than that as well.

I'm guessing something in the 2-4 cSt range, maybe ISO Grade 2 or 3.

Does anyone know of any suitable oils?

Cheers

For anyone chasing viscosity conversion charts, these are the two most useful that I found:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
http://www.pvdwiki.com/images/0/09/Shell-ISO-grades.pdf

As a random aside, these were useful for understanding why 'Oils ain't Oils', specially as a dumb consumer trying to buy the right viscosity for a mtb shock:
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/213/iso-viscosity-grades
http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
 
Last edited:
S

spinner

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I used some Shell 2.5 wt fork oil , it "opened" the shock up and made the range of damping adjustments more useful to me. I think something closer to 5 wt* is standard.

*nominal.
 
frenchman

frenchman

Eats cheese. Sells crack.
Should be the same as the oil in the 5th elements Motul Factory line rear shock oil VSE400.
 
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Ended up with Fuchs SAE 5 'Light' Fork Oil from Supercheap Auto since it was all I could find. Seems alright, not perfect but will do the job.
 
J

Jimmy

Bikeology
Manitou Swinger 6 way shock oil was renewed 10wt. Try Maxima oil. One main thing to check is the SPV valve moves. I strip the whole internals including the SPV valve to clean and renew the o-rings. Remember to double check that it works when you rebuild the valve assembly.

Remember to set the IFP piston to the correct height.

Good luck.

Jimmy

www.bikeology.com.au
 
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Hi Jimmy,

At the moment I know the SPV valve has something wrong with it. I'm using a Manitou shock pump, but the instant you detach the pump you loose all the air in the shock as well as in the line, it's like the needle/pin protruding from the valve is too long, such that the valve does not shut before the rubber seal starts to leak air as you undo the pump...

I'm going to have to try another oil, the 5wt Fuchs has given me a great range of adjustability on the rebound, but it is to light for compression, I just can't seem to wind in enough compression damping...

IFP = Floating Piston, correct?

What's the correct height for this?
 
J

Jimmy

Bikeology
Hi,

The problem you have with your shock pump maybe two things.
1) The valve core seal maybe be damaged therefore not holding the pressure. Check with some soapy water for leaks.

2) If you screw the shock pump too much you can damage the valve and pump. Srew the pump on until the pressure registers and the 1/4 turn extra. You may have to try another shock pump.

Remember that you will hear a leaking air sound as the valve closes when you remove the pump and it can take 10-15psi to fill the shock chamber.

The IFP piston is the floating piston in the piggy back as you mentioned. The depth depends on the stroke of your shock.

Depress the valve in the piggy back so all the air is removed and remove the valve core. Renew with a new core, inflate to 100psi and check for leaks when you remove the shock pump.

PLEASE REMEMBER NOT TO DO ANY WORK ON THE SHOCK WITHOUT REMOVING THE AIR PRESSURE FIRST.

The SPV valve is inside the shock and only assessable once the shock is pulled apart.

If the shock has been compressed with below minimum recommended air pressure you will have probably got air in the oil circuit, which is bleed circuit.

Hope this is of some help.
 
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