Slacker Head Angle on 2010 trek Session?

macguffin

Likes Dirt
So. Thinking of slackening the HA on my Session (2010 model HA is 66 deg). Which would be the "best" way to go? Cane Creek Angleset or similar or offset bushings? Epinions of the advantages/disadvantages (informed or not, it's a slow day at work!) greatly appreciated.
 
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bikesarefun

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So. Thinking of slackening the HA on my Session (2010 model HA is 66 deg). Which would be the "best" way to go? Cane Creek Angleset or similar or offset bushings? Epinions (informed or not, it's a slow day at work!) greatly appreciated.
Offset bushings for sure.
 

NUMBER5

Likes Dirt
My experience with the AngleSet is they are very fiddly, really easy for a bit of play or a slight knocking to work it's way into the headset... pain in the arse when I didn't even want to change head angles :)

The better way to go would be offset cups I reckon(although i've never used them). I think K9 do some, PM Nerf Herder or check out http://pushie.com.au/home/4563090852
 

macguffin

Likes Dirt
My experience with the AngleSet is they are very fiddly, really easy for a bit of play or a slight knocking to work it's way into the headset... pain in the arse when I didn't even want to change head angles :)

The better way to go would be offset cups I reckon(although i've never used them). I think K9 do some, PM Nerf Herder or check out http://pushie.com.au/home/4563090852

Thanks mate. Just saw these after trawling the net for a while. Look like a simpler solution.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
Everyone bitches about anglesets, but mine has been fine. Its in a Sunday, I have had it for more than a year and I got it second hand. Its fine. Keep it greased and it stays tight and sweet.
 

guitar1234

Likes Dirt
2010 Sessions have a HA of 65 degrees.

K9 cups are meant to be good, but cost just as much as an Cane Creek angleset and don't have as much adjustability. Choose what you think you'll be able to gain the best advantage out of, if you're lazy buy K9, but if you're ok with maintenance every now and then buy the CaneCreek.
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
2010 Sessions have a HA of 65 degrees.

K9 cups are meant to be good, but cost just as much as an Cane Creek angleset and don't have as much adjustability. Choose what you think you'll be able to gain the best advantage out of, if you're lazy buy K9, but if you're ok with maintenance every now and then buy the CaneCreek.
If he never needs to adjust the headangle again what's the point of increased maintenance?
How often do you actually adjust the headangle once you have it right? I could see the draw for more all round bikes but for a dh bike I doubt many people ever Change the head angle once its set up.

As mentioned the trek should have a 65HA if you measured it yourself it may be 66 if you run flat crowns depending on fork obviously.

For instance switching my boxxer drop crown to the flat crow brought my commencal ha from 64 back to 65. (Lucky it comes with its own inserts so ill get it back to 64)
 

pointless

Likes Bikes
If you're going to go the head angle route look at something like the works component sets. The cups are machined on a correct angle & the bearings are pressed in unlike the gimbal type (cane creek, fsa)

I had an fsa orbit -1.5 deg set & had nothing but grief with it. No matter what I did I couldn't stop it from knocking. Installed a works -2.0 and its been sweet.
 

indica

Serial flasher
I went the K9 on my Fury a few years ago.
Easy install, no maintenance required.
Works great.
 

Rider15

Likes Bikes and Dirt
If you're going to go the head angle route look at something like the works component sets. The cups are machined on a correct angle & the bearings are pressed in unlike the gimbal type (cane creek, fsa)

I had an fsa orbit -1.5 deg set & had nothing but grief with it. No matter what I did I couldn't stop it from knocking. Installed a works -2.0 and its been sweet.
agreed with works components, I have one in my Sunday, and have another two mates with one in theirs and they have been complaint free, wouldnt even know its there.
 

Ezkaton

Eats Squid
I found this thread via the search function, and this isn't downhill bike related, but... so I don't need to start a new thread elsewhere on the topic of slacker head angles.

I'd like a slacker feel to my 2012 Trance. I know they slackened it for 2014, along with bringing in the 27.5 wheel as a standard... but I don't know if it's doable, or worth it for the older Trances?

The stock feels pretty steep to me (large frame)... but I'm concerned that a slacker head angle might put extra stress on the top tube?
The top tube is straight, and thinner than 2010 and previous.

I don't know how to put my train of thought into words, but hopefully somebody knows what I mean there! :crazy:

The bike can feel a little twitchy, but I was thinking maybe a slacker head angle with some wider bars might solve this without buying a whole new bike?

Also, would a slacker head angle require a longer fork to compensate so the front end doesn't drop in height?
I've read about those offset bushing thingos, but the suspension style of the Trance doesn't look like it'd benefit much from it? Plus I'd prefer if my bottom bracket height didn't get toooo low.

This post is a little erratic... it's hard to get my train of thought down.
Apologies for that.
 
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Ivan

Eats Squid
I found this thread via the search function, and this isn't downhill bike related, but... so I don't need to start a new thread elsewhere on the topic of slacker head angles.

I'd like a slacker feel to my 2012 Trance. I know they slackened it for 2014, along with bringing in the 27.5 wheel as a standard... but I don't know if it's doable, or worth it for the older Trances?

The stock feels pretty steep to me (large frame)... but I'm concerned that a slacker head angle might put extra stress on the top tube?
The top tube is straight, and thinner than 2010 and previous.

I don't know how to put my train of thought into words, but hopefully somebody knows what I mean there! :crazy:

The bike can feel a little twitchy, but I was thinking maybe a slacker head angle with some wider bars might solve this without buying a whole new bike?

Also, would a slacker head angle require a longer fork to compensate so the front end doesn't drop in height?
I've read about those offset bushing thingos, but the suspension style of the Trance doesn't look like it'd benefit much from it? Plus I'd prefer if my bottom bracket height didn't get toooo low.

This post is a little erratic... it's hard to get my train of thought down.
Apologies for that.
It's do-able, I have minus 1 degree cups in my Trance X Adv. I believe offset bushes are also possible.

If you want to calculate what the changes to your geometry will be, here is a good calculator. http://bikegeo.muha.cc/
 

Ezkaton

Eats Squid
Thanks, I'll check out that calculator.

Are there specific anglesets compatible with GIANT's "Overdrive" headtubes?
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
Make sure its the headangle that needs changing. A twitchy end can be stem,bars and overall body positioning. Generally stems should be a sizing part so its not always ideal wot play with that. But if you widen bars you will be placed further forward so you can then shorten the stem to give you the same reach.

Whatever you decide change one thing at a time don't change bars and HA you want to isolate the changes so you know how they feel.

And no you don't need a longer fork. The change will be so minimal for 1degree. Probably a few mm I'm guessing. Anyone care to do the maths?
 

Dilstub

Likes Dirt
i'm fairly sure it works out to be that a 25mm increase in A2C will slacken the bike out by 1 degree. If i were you though, i'd have a play with a shorter stem/wider bars, then if that doesn't work out for you, go for a longer fork. what fork are you running at the moment?

I know from a friend's experience that offset bushings don't work so well with Maestro(on a glory) , probably would be the same for the trance in that case...
 

Ezkaton

Eats Squid
I am running the stock fork.

"Fox 32 F125 RL Evolution - 125mm travel"

But I had the crown and stanchions (spelling?) replaced at FOX under warranty with 130mm Kashima coated ones at the start of this year.

The stock bars are 670mm wide, I think... would 700mm do the trick? Or even wider?
 
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Dilstub

Likes Dirt
well, bars really are a function of how tall you are and your armspan. 740-760 would be a good starting point i think, unless you're really short/tall. in which case go up or down accordingly.

as for the fork, you might want to check with giant what the max travel fork you can run on the trance is, if it's 140 there's very little point buying a new fork to slack out a bike less that half a degree.
 

Ezkaton

Eats Squid
It's 130, but thanks.
I don't really have the cash to buy new forks anyway. :)

I'll give some new bars a shot, shame there's no way I can test a bunch and see what feels good.

My armspan is roughly the same as my height... 6'3.

EDIT: I came across these while looking around.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/deity-components-cz38-special-handlebar-2014/rp-prod94869

They look good, and I kinda want something with more rise (currently on 25mm). They're lighter than my current stock GIANT Connect bars (323g vs 311g for an extra 90mm width).

Sorry for derailing the thread... tell me to piss off to parts n stuff if you guys like. :p
This is one reason why the search function is bad!
 
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Dilstub

Likes Dirt
yeah, they look pretty good. personally, i'm loving the nukeproof warhead bars, had my set for three years now with no issues. think crc does them for 55, if you're interested in saving a bit of coin. deity do make amazing bars though, so it's up to you. as for a stem,the funn funnduro is pretty good on both weight/price. or thomson if you're happy to spend the extra for quality.
 
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