Spokes Prep a new wheels.

Rem

Rem

Likes Dirt
Hey Guys,

I've been reading a lot of stuff for wheel building.

I was wondering how do you guys prepare your spokes.

A lot said just oil while building without thread locker, because when you reach the right tension the nipples should not unscrew.

But some said you should use a light thread locker, and lubricate while putting in tension so you don't twist the spokes.
Although I don't get the point to put oil or lub on thread locker... what's the point ?

Any comments? what do you guys use?

Cheers.
 
Knuckles

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
No thread locker. Lightweight oil on the threads and on the nipple seats of the rim. Although I use a light coat of slicko because it's cleaner and I have a metric shit ton of it. When the wheel is tensioned and stress relieved properly, the spokes won't unwind.
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
General recommendation with DT Swiss spokes and pro-lock nipples is to keep them both completely clean. The Pro-lock nipples have a sort of nyloc compound on them already that should stop them from unwinding. I grease the nipple slightly on the surface that touches the rim for building stage and then once they're at tension I give it all a good brush clean with soapy water. I have also heard of people using linseed oil on the spoke threads with other builds, but couldn't tell you why that's recommended.

Now my DT Swiss EX471/350 build has held extremely solid and held tensions perfectly; but I built up a friends Hope Pro 4's to Flow Mk3's with the same spoke/nipple combination and the rear wheel has had massive loss of tension in the spokes after a riding it, twice in a row with very little mileage. I've just finished re-tuning them for the second time, and this time bringing them right up the recommended max 125kgf spoke tension to see how they go. I had previously been conservative at the 110kgf mark. If they don't hold after this I might very well consider thread locker for that build, but it was a point of interest to get such different results with the same spoke/nipple combination.

But I think it may vary. I'd be inclined to ask the guys over at Wheelworks what they do and follow that recommendation, their flite wheels are beautifully made and they're probably a good example to aspire to.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
I personally wouldn't use any thread locker on MTB wheels, If you're constantly smashing into everything then they are going to need constant tweeking. I normally retension after the first 200-300kms and then roughly every 1000kms. When first building the wheel, your final tension is best done with the tyre mounted and run about 10psi above what you would most likely run at max. I've seen some people build wheels and then throw the tyre on and pump it up only to find all the spokes are loose again.
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
I use grease, purely for the simplicity of just dunking the threads in a tub of the stuff.

Locking compounds, even mild ones, can go & get fucked; I've broken or had to cut out too many spokes when trying to true a wheel because some fuckhead glued the fucking nipples on. DT Prolock have been among the worst offenders.
 
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The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Zaf said:
I have also heard of people using linseed oil on the spoke threads with other builds, but couldn't tell you why that's recommended.
Click to expand...
Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
 
Rem

Rem

Likes Dirt
The Duckmeister said:
Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
Click to expand...
Yeah I've heard about Linseed oil.
I might try that because I'm not super keen with thread locker. Even middle one.


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Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
The Duckmeister said:
Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
Click to expand...
I had to re-rim my XT wheel and prior someone had used linseed oil, it went dry and locked the nipples up like Loctite. I spent hours winding back and forth with adding thinners and penetrating spray but eventually they all came out.:yell:
 
Rem

Rem

Likes Dirt
Also to explain, I built a wheel for my sun, he is a down hill racer, and the wheel last 3 weeks. The rims was one of this Nukeproof Generator on sale at CRC laced on a formula hub with DB Swiss comp. I think the rim is as soft as butter as my son killed it in about 10 rides and one race. I've got a spare rim, same Nukeproof, so I'm going to build an other one. I didn't use any thread locker the first time so I thought it could be a reason. I don't think there was anything wrong with the built appart from that, we checked the tension often, the rim picked ding almost straight away.



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The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Threadlocker won't save you from dings like that! The key to a reliable build is adequate and even tension on each side of the wheel - they won't be equal left & right due to the dishing to accomodate brake rotor & cassette. For aluminium rims I typically build to 100kgf; much higher and they go into compression buckling, but some lightweight rims I'll drop back to around 90kgf to reduce risk of cracking from the spoke holes. Carbon I'll build to around 120kgf. These figures are of course for the more highly tensioned side of the wheel. The off side tension will vary depending on hub geometry; it could be anywhere between 65 & 90% of the tension of the high-tension side. Exact left/right tension balance isn't exceptionally critical, the key, as I said at the top but it's worth repeating, is that the tension is even within each side of the wheel.
 
Knuckles

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
Flow-Rider said:
I had to re-rim my XT wheel and prior someone had used linseed oil, it went dry and locked the nipples up like Loctite. I spent hours winding back and forth with adding thinners and penetrating spray but eventually they all came out.:yell:
Click to expand...
Turps.....
 
Rem

Rem

Likes Dirt
The Duckmeister said:
Threadlocker won't save you from dings like that! The key to a reliable build is adequate and even tension on each side of the wheel - they won't be equal left & right due to the dishing to accomodate brake rotor & cassette. For aluminium rims I typically build to 100kgf; much higher and they go into compression buckling, but some lightweight rims I'll drop back to around 90kgf to reduce risk of cracking from the spoke holes. Carbon I'll build to around 120kgf. These figures are of course for the more highly tensioned side of the wheel. The off side tension will vary depending on hub geometry; it could be anywhere between 65 & 90% of the tension of the high-tension side. Exact left/right tension balance isn't exceptionally critical, the key, as I said at the top but it's worth repeating, is that the tension is even within each side of the wheel.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know what you mean.
I did control the tension and tried to apply the same on both side but it's hard to be 100% sure.
Even though I'm using the Park tension tool.
I'll check what tension I put exactly.

Cheers.


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Rem

Rem

Likes Dirt
Flow-Rider said:
I personally wouldn't use any thread locker on MTB wheels, If you're constantly smashing into everything then they are going to need constant tweeking. I normally retension after the first 200-300kms and then roughly every 1000kms. When first building the wheel, your final tension is best done with the tyre mounted and run about 10psi above what you would most likely run at max. I've seen some people build wheels and then throw the tyre on and pump it up only to find all the spokes are loose again.
Click to expand...
True , I thought the same.


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c3024446

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
The Duckmeister said:
I use grease, purely for the simplicity of just dunking the threads in a tub of the stuff.

Locking compounds, even mild ones, can go & get fucked; I've broken or had to cut out too many spokes when trying to true a wheel because some fuckhead glued the fucking nipples on. DT Prolock have been among the worst offenders.
Click to expand...
I've built a few wheels with brass pro-lock, haven't tweaked any though after the build....... Is the only reason you have to re-true them because the rim is bent though? And have they all been aluminium locking ones?
 
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