Squeezing boost onto non boost frame

nexusfish

nexusfish

El Mariachi
G'day guys, I've trashed another rear wheel and non boost wheels are getting difficult to get quickly. With an important race coming up in 2 weeks, I'm looking at a boost wheelset. My bike is a Nukeproof Mega 290. Anyone see any problems with squeezing a boost hub in it? I chucked in a mates and it needed hardly any force applied to get it to flex enough to fit.

The bike is long in the back and is pretty flexy anyway. The ghetto hillbilly engineer in me is telling me it's ok, but I love this bike and I'll be pissed if it cracks.

Cheers!
 
nexusfish said:
G'day guys, I've trashed another rear wheel and non boost wheels are getting difficult to get quickly. With an important race coming up in 2 weeks, I'm looking at a boost wheelset. My bike is a Nukeproof Mega 290. Anyone see any problems with squeezing a boost hub in it? I chucked in a mates and it needed hardly any force applied to get it to flex enough to fit.

The bike is long in the back and is pretty flexy anyway. The ghetto hillbilly engineer in me is telling me it's ok, but I love this bike and I'll be pissed if it cracks.

Cheers!
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No....
371566
 
The brake rotor relative to the dropout is in the same position, so if you've got enough 'flex' to get it in there then it will probably work. Other people have done this on other bikes without any drama.
 
Apart from the important race bit what could
go wrong ha ha
If it works you will have proven that boost is BS and bikes need more boost.
 
I thought aluminum under constant stress was a bad thing? The bikes I know that work both boost/non boost are steel (eg, Marino)

Plenty of non boost hubs and wheels around most places.
 
moorey said:
I thought aluminum under constant stress was a bad thing? The bikes I know that work both boost/non boost are steel (eg, Marino)

Plenty of non boost hubs and wheels around most places.
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Or carbon. @slider_phil did it with his Turner Czar

slider_phil said:
Noticed I've clocked over 2k kms since building in October (2262km to be exact, thanks Strava).

Boost wheels in a non boost frame still haven't caused any issues. Lower DW link still starts creaking after a few rides after greasing. The Wolftooth dropper remote is SO MUCH nicer than the factory KS remote. Fox 32 SC feels a ton better than the old 2014 Fox 32 that was set to 120mm. The Vittoria tyres have proved to be fast, strong and predictable for trail/xc use.

No plans to change anything in the future at this stage, just enjoy it


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The stress will be minimal. If you do the math a 3mm deviation on a 430mm chain stay is <1% and an angle of 0.4 degrees. So the faces of the dropouts will be in total 0.8 deg out of parallel. Bikes with Maestro / DW-Link rear ends have an much stiffer construction relating to the dropout location and even on those it takes minimal force to flex the dropouts +/-6mm.

Would probably be a good idea to take the shock out once the boost wheel is in and make sure the suspension works smoothly. If there is no binding because of some bearing angle issue near rear dropout then you're probably good to go.
 
I did it in my Kona Honzo for ages without a problem, steel frame. Also did it on my old Canyon Spectral and didn't have any problems for 3 months or so, aluminium frame. Disclaimer I'm am very hard on my stuff and treat bikes like the Cheeto King treated Barron (read red headed step child).
 
SummitFever said:
The stress will be minimal. If you do the math a 3mm deviation on a 430mm chain stay is <1% and an angle of 0.4 degrees. So the faces of the dropouts will be in total 0.8 deg out of parallel. Bikes with Maestro / DW-Link rear ends have an much stiffer construction relating to the dropout location and even on those it takes minimal force to flex the dropouts +/-6mm.

Would probably be a good idea to take the shock out once the boost wheel is in and make sure the suspension works smoothly. If there is no binding because of some bearing angle issue near rear dropout then you're probably good to go.
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Cheers, that's what I was thinking in a non mathy way. Mine is a Horst link and the way the linkages are braced, I'd be surprised if there was any binding. Considering the lateral loads bikes experience under you, the stress from widening seems minimal. I'll have a crack and write an expose on the bike industry boost scam!
 
What are the chances you can file down the caps to suit?

The difference between a 135x12 and a 142x12 is minimal, I've managed to file down a set of hope caps before instead of buying new ones.
I got the idea from a poorly executed solution on a wheelset I got cheaply. If it works on 142-135 then you might have some luck with 148-142 provided the rotor and cassette still line up close enough...

Sent from my H8324 using Tapatalk
 
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