Steel Hardtail for the Wombat 100. A good idea?

asterix

Likes Bikes
Hi, I'm considering purchasing a Cotic Solaris 29er steel hardtail to replace the Lapierre XR 529 (full suspension) that I'm currently riding. I am entered for the Wombat 100 in April & am just after some opinions & advice about wether a steel hardtail is a good idea for events like these? I did the Wombat last year on a dually & finished fairly comfortably but wondering if on a hardtail I'm going to be in a world of pain 80km in. I've had mainly duallys for the past 10+ years & haven't ridden a hardtail much at all. I'm reasonably fit at the moment but probably not as good as i was this time last year heading into the event. Any advice appreciated.
Cheers
 

Cúl-Báire

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've previously ridden a steel hardtail on a few marathon, and endurance races. It was a great bike for longer events, more relaxed HA made it easy to handle and the steel frame offered plenty of snap on the climbs and some good zing on the bumpy bits. These days with larger tires (2.2" or 2.25) a steel hardtail makes even more sense.

I would recommend getting good Ti seatpost, it will offer a tiny bit more give.
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
What was your time for the 100? I have a time limit of about 4 hours on a hard tail on any real mtb tracks. After that my back gives up as you need to stand up a LOT more.
 

HerdingCats

Likes Dirt
I rode a steel HT (Ritchey P-29er) at the Fling last year (Full Fling = 112k), after 8 years of riding it on a dually.

There's no doubt you'll get beaten up compared to riding a dually. I finished it feeling like I'd been at the bottom of ruck for seven hours, especially as I was out of the saddle way more than previous events … Still, I felt much more connected with the course, forced to pay attention to all my lines and being much more thoughtful about my riding position, cornering, etc.

I'll be doing it again on the HT - it's very rewarding.
 

asterix

Likes Bikes
What was your time for the 100? I have a time limit of about 4 hours on a hard tail on any real mtb tracks. After that my back gives up as you need to stand up a LOT more.
Just under 7 hours so I'm definitely not racing for any honours, just to finish. Having to stand so much more is the thing that concerns me. I just got back from a 30km ride on a mate's borrowed On-One steel hardtail. It was good but i definitely feel more worse for wear than if i'd done it on my dually. I think if I had more time to condition myself it'd be ok but in my current form I reckon it'd be a sufferfest.

Shame, I really like the look of those Cotics. Wonder if the missus will let me get one to put the Wee Rider on :friendly_wink:

Thanks for the comments.
 

quiggs

Likes Dirt
A couple of things to consider..
Run wider tyres 2.25 e.g. with relatively lower pressures 25psi range you should get around ok.

What diameter seat post is it? Whatever you do don't go down the aluminium seat post road. e.g. thomson. With a hard tail you want a post that has some flex in it to absorb the smaller tree root bumps. Go Easton EC70 or if you can afford it a ENVE or Syntace P6 Hi flex post

Last thing to consider with any hard tail for anyone but the very elite rider, you will spend more time out of the saddle, which will lead you to increased fatigue through the whole body

hope this helps
quiggs
 

quiggs

Likes Dirt
Just had a look at the Cotic website it specs the Solaris with a 31.6mm seat post, no seat post in that diameter is going to give you any real flex. Along with those beefy seat and chain stays that thing will beat the F#$k out of you over a 7hr ride (your time from last yr).

As Cul said if you really want a hardtail keep saving a get a nice titanium one or my opinion get a carbon jobbie.

quiggs
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
Just had a look at the Cotic website it specs the Solaris with a 31.6mm seat post, no seat post in that diameter is going to give you any real flex. Along with those beefy seat and chain stays that thing will beat the F#$k out of you over a 7hr ride (your time from last yr).

As Cul said if you really want a hardtail keep saving a get a nice titanium one or my opinion get a carbon jobbie.

quiggs
+1 - what he said

find a secondhand Ti frame or bike
 

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've rode the Woodend 100k a few times, always on a HT (Alu) no problems - you have 2 things to consider the weight of the bike and your riding style. weight that's up to you I wouldn't want to be over 12kgs personally. riding style you need the fitness to be able to unweight the seat when required. on a FS when you get fatigued you can pedal along and sit back on the couch where the HT demands that you keep working the line - so your legs become the fox shock. other thing is the HT won't like being bashed through rough terrain = pinch flat so again adjust your riding style.

on the plus side for something like woodend event which is pretty nice single track the climbing efficiency and overall power transfer of a HT is a big plus. if you have the dosh and you want to go for your best time, then a CF HT is pretty quick - although you won't 'look' as hard core on the starting line compared to a Ti or Steel HT.
 
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Cúl-Báire

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Just had a look at the Cotic website it specs the Solaris with a 31.6mm seat post, no seat post in that diameter is going to give you any real flex. Along with those beefy seat and chain stays that thing will beat the F#$k out of you over a 7hr ride (your time from last yr).

As Cul said if you really want a hardtail keep saving a get a nice titanium one or my opinion get a carbon jobbie.

quiggs
I didn't say that Jason (I said Ti post), but certainly agree - Ti Hardtail would be pick of the bunch if a hardtail is a must. They can be found reasonably priced second hand (ebay us / uk) or even China Ti / Russian made frames are fiarly well priced and are said to be pretty good.
I've been contemplating one myself, but opted to get a new roadie and put my Ti dually on a diet instead.

I guess the beauty of Ti is it's timeless, will last forever! :thumb:


Although you won't 'look' as hard core on the starting line compared to a fully rigid, fixed gear Ti or Steel HT running 1.8" wide 26" tires, and 500mm bars.
Fixed ;-)
 
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Cúl-Báire

Likes Bikes and Dirt
All good champ, you brought up a very valid point. Ti would be a way better option for probably not too much more cost!

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Pastavore

Eats Squid
I have done a few 100k and a few 6hr races on a 26" steel hardtail. Survived intact. But I have never had a full suspension bike, so can't compare.
 

mattwilkinson

Likes Dirt
Does anybody remember last year the guy who did the 50 in boots on a shitty old bike?
He borrowed the bike from a friend and it was a tip worthy bike...


He finished it a bit after me so it shows you can ride almost anything it's just up to you
 

MudRhino

Likes Dirt
Does anybody remember last year the guy who did the 50 in boots on a shitty old bike?
He borrowed the bike from a friend and it was a tip worthy bike...


He finished it a bit after me so it shows you can ride almost anything it's just up to you

Yeah - I remember him, he was in the same group as my wife. I guess sometimes we get carried away with having the latest and greatest.
 

Keachy

Likes Dirt
The 2nd 50 of the wombat 100 involves a few long fire road grinds on corrugated gravel. I've done the 100 on both a ht and fs. It's a fs type race of you plan on being fatigued and shagged in the last half. Tubeless rear wheel at the very least with about 25 psi max.


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