Suspension, how's your set up?

SmokedHam

Likes Dirt
There's no doubt heaps of suspension related threads on here, but thought I would start up this one.

Question is how do you set up your suspension, I guess more related to AM & DH?

Low speed compression damping - edited - as my suggestions were way off! anyways read on some good info now in this thread.

Hi speed compression damping - edited - again read through the thread some good setups & advice.

I found this on Pink Bike recently,

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/163229/
 
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jrewing

Eats Squid
i like to give people bum advice, contrary to what you have posted. i pretty much do as you do except for hsc. yeah i find most over spring too. same with resi pressure.
its like the higher the psi, the "harder you are"
 

J@se

Breezeway Bandit
Nerf Herder is a Suspension Tuning expert, PM him for advice on set-up as well.:D
 

Nerf Herder

Wheel size expert
firm and slow ... is what I am most commonly asked to perform in my "tuning" capacity.

and by no means am I a Lame end

*edit:
I have been experimenting with extremely slow rebound both front and back after getting some advice from a boonhucker maddog and I'm finding I like it. I hate bottoming and I haven't had any pack down / bottoming issues. note: I'm prolly one of the over sprung crew so maybe this is way the slow works
 
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SmokedHam

Likes Dirt
firm and slow ... is what I am most commonly asked to perform in my "tuning" capacity.

and by no means am I a Lame end

*edit:
I have been experimenting with extremely slow rebound both front and back after getting some advice from a boonhucker maddog and I'm finding I like it. I hate bottoming and I haven't had any pack down / bottoming issues. note: I'm prolly one of the over sprung crew so maybe this is way the slow works

:confused::p:rolleyes::mad:
 

Nautonier

Eats Squid
There's no doubt heaps of suspension related threads on here, but its a favorite subject of mine so I though as I'm old I would start one up in VETS....

Question is how do you set up your suspension, I guess more related to AM & DH?

Things I think I know in lame-mends terms ,

For the most part I see many setups out there over sprung! this along is one of the most important steps, depending on your discipline, get your sag set right, 20 - 30% for AM / 30 - 40% for DH, so spring rate is crucial to achieve this, take the time and get this right and your half way there.

Next step - rebound! to slow & your suspension will pack down, to fast and your bike will feel unbalanced on landing jumps for one, or just to choppy & twitchy altogether.. best place to start is in the middle, from here you can try different settings, remember one or two clicks only at a time and write down what your doing!

Low speed compression damping - small bump compliance, to much and your bike won't track and it will feel harsh, to little and your bike might dive when corning hard! try a little low-speed it will help your fork to stand up a bit in its travel and shouldn't dive when corning..

Hi speed compression damping - Big hits, as a rule I generally run no hi-speed untill I find my fork is blowing through its travel then from here I would start to dial in a little at a time but not to much - find yourself winding to much in and I would suggest you revisit your spring rate.

So there are many types of forks & rear shocks out there, all with there own terminology on what adjustments they give.. I found this on Pink Bike recently, This guy is a great presenter.. hope it helps.

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/163229/
Some very helpful info there although I'm a little confused as to whether you are talking about the front or rear suspension or both. I know that the adjustment (well at least on my bike) is the same, but for me to get 30 - 40% sag on the front I would have to put in an extra-soft spring and that would bottom out frequently. Also, I am running the rebound, HSC and LSC all at about halfway on the back and on the front am running the rebound slightly slower than halfway and no HSC or LSC.

The problem I'm having is that being new to DH, if I play around with the settings I can't really notice any difference unless I wind things all the way in or out. Some guys who were experienced riders had a go on my bike and liked the set-up on the back (RC4), but wound off all the LSC and HSC on the front and slowed the rebound. It feels good to me, but I'm not sure that I'm noticing the difference to how it was with a little bit more HSC and LSC on the front.
 

SmokedHam

Likes Dirt
30 - 40% sag is for the rear, your front should be around 20% for DH, as for the LSC & HSC on the RC4, I use to run anything from 0 - 3 clicks of LSC and only required about 3 - 4 clicks of HSC, this will all depend on your spring rate & sag which is akin to your body weight, again start off with no HSC and if your bottoming on big hits then start dialing in some HSC.

LSC on your RC4 can be used for different types of tracks, if the track is flat and has a lot pedaling then dial in some LSC and you take out some of that Pedal Bob, but in most cases the track is never one or the other so playing around with your setup to achieve a happy medium is really what you should try and achieve if you wish to set & forget.

But on the other hand if your a racer and want the best out of your suspension for every track you race on, than for sure fine tune away that's what their there for :)

Rebound, I always recommend running the front faster than the rear so your not getting bucked over the bars, rebound is really a personnel thing.
 
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camtb

Likes Dirt
I've been playing around a bit and I've found slow and stiff is the way I like it, easy enough to hop yet still enough grip due to the slow rebound, so much more fun to ride then heaps plush setups too!
 

jacko13

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Not a vet, but this thread interested me.

I've been playing around with my set up lately, i have Boxxer Teams up front and an X-Fusion Vector Hlr rear.

The X-Fusion has HSC, LSC, rebound, air pressure, and volume/bottom out adjust.

I was running a 350pd spring on my Solid M9. I found i wasn't using any of the compression on the shock, had the minium air pressure and no bottom out. So it was essentially just running as a spring.
Now it felt pretty good, but i changed to a 300pd, gave a fair hit of preload, and went to a med-high air pressure and about 60% bottom out. Then im using about 1/4 of LSC and about 1/2 of HSC. Feels pretty good like this, the added pressure and LSC keeps it a bit higher in the stroke and stops it from wallowing, the its not blowing through its travel too much. Feels a lot more controlled now that im using more compression with a softer spring, and is get a noticable amount more rear wheel traction.

Up from, i run about 7 clicks of HSC and about 5 of LSC. Feels pretty good and 11 ending stroke rebound and about 11 beggining stroke.

Ive also taken out the bottom out bumper, makes the fork feel better in the end of its travel. Might be something you guys might look into. Just take it out of the middle of the spring.

Thats my wrap up :)
If anyone has suggestions let me know!
 

Nerf Herder

Wheel size expert
firm and slow ... is what I am most commonly asked to perform in my "tuning" capacity.
*Edit ... I was wrong

The 10" was hiding some of the pack down in the rear ... and the harsh firm feel was highlighted when I was trying to soften my AM forks.

- having recently jumped onto my new rig, which has very quick and active rear end ... and consequently was squatting when I put my rebound too slow ... I tried the same thing with the Propain and I now see what was happening.

Similarly, I've been lucky to ride a mates yeti 575 and was trying to make my Bullit similarly plush, and only just realised that the firm feel up front was due to it packing in.

Similarly on the trance ... I had thought I had set it up softer, but I recall tweaking the rebound and then feeling it become firm all of a sudden (all things being equal).

So, this is my current setup (I'm 78kgs)

DH - Propain
Boxxer 2010 (yellow spring + 5 clicks of HSC, and 3 clicks of LSC) ... could prolly get a click or two more of LSC as some people are saying it is diving a little on the brakes. HS Rebound is I think 7 to 9 clicks from off ... LS is 4 to 5 from off
CCDB has a 450lbs ... no HSC, and prolly 2 to 3 turns of LSC
Rebound is about half way ... with LSC being a little more as I'was getting kicked forward a little (sorry I need to re count)

AM - SC Bullit
36 Float ... 3 clicks of LSC ... no HSC, 35psi (could prolly go to 40) (about 20% sag) and 3 to 4 clicks of rebound ... I'm still playing with this ... I need to ride some really rough tech to see if I pogo
DHX air ... 130psi (about 35% sag depending on my position) ... need to play with rebound.
Rear feels softer then the front ... so I think I may go to 140psi and sort out my rebound (which I can't really notice on the DHX)

XC - Trance
Still sorting it out
Rear Fox float 130psim (rebound 2 clicks from full on)
Reba team ... 110 +ve, 120 -ve ... and I think its about 3 turns from fully on

feels really harsh

As you can see I go through wild changes, but I think I'm getting closer. :eek:
 

Dougy

Likes Dirt
I've found the trick with setting up suspension is to find an overall balance in the bikes attitude over a variety of terrain. Most of us are not Rennie or Hill who have the advantage of different set-ups for different tracks or a mechanic to get everything right for us so finding our bikes sweet spot is what we are chasing. So far the general sag of 20-30% for trails and 30-40% for DH is usually where I set my bike up.

Now I like a plusher "ride all day" set-up as opposed to the stiffer "one good run" race set-up as max speed isn't my goal. I like to go fast but I also like to be in control of my bike 99% of the time. As you get older work and family commitments don't necessarily slow you down they just make you take smaller risks. Now each shock/fork is different so I'll use percentages of adjustment rather than 'clicks' so people can relate it to their own gear. This will be aimed mostly at DH but for trails/XC just think a little stiffer a little faster.

Rear

I generally run the minimum air in my platform as the higher the pressure the higher up the scale your damping will be. This is to allow small bump compliance which is what we need on most Oz tracks as they are generally bumpy as hell. Low speed comp, if you have it, is much the same, I would run around 20-30% max or you will start skating on the small bumps/breaking bumps.

High speed comp generally only comes into play in the last 30-40% of your travel depending on your shock so you can run a bit more here. I don't boost of stuff much anymore so only tend to run about 50% but if your a hucker you might need more to stop those hard bottom outs. this goes for Bottom Control as well as that's essentially what it is a high speed comp adjustment.

Rebound I generally run at 65%. This allows the rear to track the ground and not try to buck you when you hit something. You can play with this a little but I wouldn't go more than 75%. Some newer shocks allow beginning and end stroke rebound which is great so I would treat this a bit like high and low speed comp less in the beginning and more at the end but still no more than 75%

Front

A little less sag here 25%-35%. Thank go platform forks went out the door so we don't have to worry about them.

Again low speed comp will determine how your bike deals with small bumps and the more compliant the better to keep you on your line. Ten-twenty percent is all I would run here to keep it all moving.

For the bigger hits run a bit more high-speed comp to keep the forks off the bottom if they are down and you get another hit OTB you will go. I tend to run about 60% here as like the rear it doesn't come into play until late in the travel.

Rebound - I don't use much on the front at all 20% max for the same reason I use a bit more HSC. Keeping your forks in their mid travel works best as that keeps then moving and keeps you in control. You can get away with a bit on the rear bit you need to keep things active on the front.

Pre-load. Run as little preload as possible. I go with the manufactures minimum front and rear. If you need to run heaps of pre-load you need a stiffer spring. If you have wound off all your pre-load and still can't get your sag where you want it you need a softer spring.

Hope that all helps keep you old blokes riding and enjoying it up into Masters and beyond.
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
Not a VET but the thread did catch my eye.

I have to agree but also disagree when many of you say LSC is for small bump compliance, although it does have a affect on small bump compliance, this is only apparent at low speeds, when you are on the trail most these bumps transfer into HSC or the force you hit these bumps at is so high that that a stiffer set up has no issue absorbing them and does not really have a dramatic affect if any at all. For instance I am only 60kg run a soft spring (yellow) in my 2011 boxxer teams, 9 clicks of LSC and 6 HSC. I did run the reccomended super soft but it was undersprung. The only thing with this set up is that because it is stiff you cannot really ride slow so those initial first few warm up runs tend to feel a bit choppy but once you are up to speed it is magic. You do need to ride the bike and be a little more aggresive. speaking from a DH point of view here

Primairly LSC should be used to my understanding as slow shifting and body movement control, primairly I use it up front to stop the bike diving, wollowing in holes or diving on LSC mounds (like single woops). I think it is important to follow the sag guides but equally important to consider trail speed and your riding speed. My fork on the flat sits at about 15% sag but on the trail is perfect. Likewise you will see many Pro DH riders with very little sag in the carpark.
Sag is also a very vaque and not an accurate way to assess spring rate on a DH bike due to the slack angles and varience in track speed you need to assess your HSC adjuster position and travel usage. Needing to back the adjuster off completly, you need to reduce spring rate.
If you have to increase the HSC setting close to full firm position, you need to increase the spring rate
This way you are matching your damper and spring rates to give the best possible setup... you don’t want to over damp or over spring your ride.

My rebound again like many others is fairly slow, I ran the faster RS reccomendation and didnt really work (however I was undersprung at this point), I may experiment later on with fast rebound again.
The set up for my fork is as follows (rebounds are fairly accurate guesses)
weight: ~60kg
Fork: 2011 Boxxer team (R2C2)
Spring: Soft (yellow)
LSC +9
HSC +6
ES rebound + 6 or +7
BS rebound -not sure but its faster than ES, about 10-12 I'd say.

*snip*
So, this is my current setup (I'm 78kgs)

DH - Propain
Boxxer 2010 (yellow spring + 5 clicks of HSC, and 3 clicks of LSC) ... could prolly get a click or two more of LSC as some people are saying it is diving a little on the brakes. HS Rebound is I think 7 to 9 clicks from off ... LS is 4 to 5 from off
Seems like I run fairly stiff, at 18kg lighter I am running +6 more clicks of LSC and +1 HSC, but this deffinatly works for me, would highly reccomend trying more LSC nerf, but at the end of the day everyone will run a different set up.

My Rc4 on the rear is set up with quite a bit of LSC about 6 clicks I think, HSC is about 4.The spring rate is slightly too soft though and I have not really fine tuned it.
I was fortune enough to get some detailed information from Ken Ballhause at tekin which really helped me understand how this shock works but also how it should be set up and what adjustments should be changed for the desired feel. The information is floating around RB in a thread.
I ride alot of rocky trails, fast and slow along with the fast flowly smoother stuff and I dont need to change the fork on any of them.

Not a vet, but this thread interested me.

I've been playing around with my set up lately, i have Boxxer Teams up front and an X-Fusion Vector Hlr rear.

Up from, i run about 7 clicks of HSC and about 5 of LSC. Feels pretty good and 11 ending stroke rebound and about 11 beggining stroke.

Ive also taken out the bottom out bumper, makes the fork feel better in the end of its travel. Might be something you guys might look into. Just take it out of the middle of the spring.

Thats my wrap up :)
If anyone has suggestions let me know!
Run more LSC and less HSC Primairly you need to make sure you have the right spring in your fork this is the basis to everything and without this the fork is going to lag in performance. Your riding speed is going to determine how stiff you set up your bike. Keep your setting written down and if you like try my settings above, dont judge it cruising around as it will feel very stiff riding to the trail and you will be thinking, "what the hell this is so stiff my forks not taking any small bumps and its hardly moving" but on the trail it should feel very smooth and controlled, It works for me. I also run no bumpstop in the fork, I use a soft spring and am about 60kg.
Alot of people use LSC trying to control HSC bumps. Like wise people try to control some LSC with HSC adjustments.

Your spring rate should assess your sag, preload is a height adjustment not a spring rate adjustment.Preload also kills low-speed rebound on 40's so the same may apply for boxxers. Sag is almost useless for assessing a DH bike due to HA and change of track speed but as a general rule Get the correct spring rate I would say about 20% on the flat as a average starting point. Then from here I would personally try for you:
+4 or+5 HSC
+7LSC
ending stroke rebound +7 or +8
Keep beggining where it is as im not even sure what im running here haha but I know its faster than ending.
From here you can minor tweek the settings, you may want to try my settings as mentioned above aswell.
See how they both feel and let us know if it works for you or not. It may feel awkward at first but give it a day of riding and see how you go, you will find it requires a faster riding pace, and the faster you ride the better and smoother the fork will feel.

Now from what I gather though it seems that many pros run less LSC in the rear and opt for a higher HSC over the LSC, I would assume it would be the other way around but I guess this would be to level out the weight and to compensate for the excessive rear forces.
If I cannot convince you or anyone else in this thread than maybe all the proffesional Dh riders using heaps of LSC will ;) you only need to watch these boys pedalling down the straight to see how much their forks dont move under body movement.
 
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gmatt

Squid
I love suspension setup, but I think I over analyse it a bit.
I'm riding trails on my 5" travel full suss bike and have spent ages messing around with all the settings. These are my thoughts:

For me I found two main paths to follow, depending on the sort of riding. "Low and smooth" or "high and abrupt". I tend to run "low and smooth", by which I mean I don't manhandle the bike much. I tend to stay close to the ground off jumps (generally manualling off them rather than compressing and jumping higher), and like to maintain a smooth, fast line through corners. For this riding I use the high end of recommended sag ( 25% rear 20% front for me), no Low Speed Compression ( sorry Driftking :) ) and fast rebound. This works well for me in that it gives immense traction. The rapid rebound and no LSC really keeps the tyres stuck to the ground, it's hugely confidence inspiring in flat corners. This seems to work well up until trying to jump the bike, where I find it falls down a bit. Going off drops it's fine, but if you're the sort of person who likes hitting jumps where you compress into them and jump the bike higher I find you need very good timing to prevent the fast rebound from unsettling the bike.

My friend I ride with is much more physical with his bike. Makes use of every jump opportunity to go high, and will skid into corners using his strength to make the bike go where he wants. This sort of riding seems to suit slowing the rebound down a lot, using some LSC and maybe less sag. The slower rebound seems much more stable when compressing into jumps. Also due to the extra height he's getting he runs less sag to make sure he's not always bottoming out.

Don't think either is better, but I've not seen many suspension setup guides that point out that a different riding style might warrant a different setup, especially with regards rebound. It's sort of like when you see guides to "how to set your seat height", there's not really one answer :)
 

Calvin M

Likes Dirt
Smokedham sorry but your info on LSC and HSC are way off. Good work for trying to help people but you need to give correct advise.
 

SmokedHam

Likes Dirt
Smokedham sorry but your info on LSC and HSC are way off. Good work for trying to help people but you need to give correct advise.
I think your right Man, just thought I'd start a thread on the subject and it has returned some great replies except for NERF Dick whom can't do any more than take the piss!
:clap2:
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
So revisted my fork today and went down 1click of LSC to +8,fork feels good here and is staying. May try +7 to see how it feels.
I thought it is also worth mentioning the following.

LSC & HSC- is velocity sensitive that means that it does not matter how much travel you use a LSC hit and HSC hit can still use full or little travel. The velocity is regards to shaft speed and not bike speed.

Small bump and big bump is not LSC or HSC, technically the fork will go through a motion that incorporates both but to keep it clear cut; the speed/velocity at which the shaft/shock compresses determines which circuit will be used LSC or HSC. Although there is some truth to LSC helping small bump compliance it is not something that is a big factor when at riding speed. Generally I like to set my fork up so it does not dive, in corners I only use about 1/3 of my fork travel. You dont want to be too stiff but you need support which comes from LSC. Think of LSC as more of a supporter, rather than a bump absorber. You dont want so much support that you have no travel to drop into holes or take hits but you dont was so little that you are sinking into deep travel which once again results in no travel for bumps. (keep in mind you want appropriate use for the obstacles, hence you may enter deep travel on a LSC hit but it should be necessary) Keep in mind the energy you have in Gforce goes through the suspension if you are running a super soft set up that force will be lost where a stiffer set up will result in more momentum through the corner.

The way I look at it is LSC is a supporter, If your fork uses 50% of its travel in a corner this gives 50% of travel to extend into holes etc to grip and 50% travel to absorb compressive bumps. If you have too much support this extension becomes smaller say 25%, hence less travel to extend into holes/contours for traction, too little support say 75% of travel is used and then your forks absorbtion is affected hence your bike has less travel to take a compressive force, personally I like to run a little stiffer this gives more for absorbtion as I tend to skip over things, corners rarely need more if 4inchs of travel at all for holes, but everyone will have their own prefference. As you can see though there is such thing as too much and too little LSC, I tend to measure my LSC in smooth corners to see where my travel sits. Obviously it is not this clear cut as some sections will result in less compression and others more but for the sake of the thread it had to be simple.

LSC is very misunderstood.

*I have based this off cornering as they are more comparable from track to track, I have not taken rockgardens etc into account as they tend to be HSC , have too much varriation in travel use and will vary greatly with every track. The information is also primarily in regards to forks not rears suspension although most of it can be transfered over im fairly sure *

As mentioned already in the thread it is also important to balance the rear and front of the bike. Changing each one can change how the other feels. It take alot of individual testing and retesting to get the bike tuned up to where you want it.
M2C of how i understand and look at LSC feel free to correct me if i am wrong.

Edit:checked some photos out and measured the fork use on my bike, I am running about 31%sag when I hit a corner, I would like a little more travel use but I have no issues with tracking and the set up helps keep the bike from diving and allows the bikes geometry to remain more consistent.
 
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