The Photo Snob Thread

Jaydawgz

Likes Dirt
Thanks for your opinions guys. That video was actually quite helpful. I agree with you both, common courtesy goes a long way and if you are genuinely interested in the people you are photographing, not just filling your camera by firing off as many random shots as you can, then you should be able to get at least some willing subjects.

Maybe you can shoot first, ask later, if you are further away but taking a shot that is centred around 1 person in particular. If you are doing a close up portrait, ask first.

The important thing is to make the person feel comfortable and maybe sit back and observe people before you approach them. And when you do, say that you would like to take their picture because you think it would look great for these reasons… a, b, c.

Just came across this website: http://www.100strangers.com/ There are a few tips on there, and it would also be a good excuse by saying you are participating in the "100Strangers" project.
Useful stuff there.
Just make sure that the people don't look sketch and will still your camera!
 

24alpha

mtbpicsonline.com
If they were to say yes, I have a feeling that there 'perfect pose' would be changed.
You could take the photo beforehand, ask and show them the photo?
Agreed!

I think this is your problem. If by asking first, the subject becomes aware and their pose changes. Maybe for the better, but I'd say mostly for the worse.
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
"Common courtesy" aside, it's entirely dependent on the end photo you wish to achieve. A candid photo will never be candid if you ask first. If you just want to take a street portrait, then ask away.

Also, it is entirely legal to take someone elses photo in public, so if you're not breaking the law, f*ck "courtesy".
 

whitey89

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Also , a photo from this after noon, not like the 24829348723kw cars i normally take photos of, but anyway :)

How do you get such bright colours? Is it in personalised colour settings within the camera?

Does anyone know any good websites to explain colour settings for canon?
 

kalem

Likes Bikes and Dirt
How do you get such bright colours? Is it in personalised colour settings within the camera?

Does anyone know any good websites to explain colour settings for canon?
With heavy post-processing by the looks, the shadows behind the clouds are a giveaway.
 

CraigS

Likes Dirt
Some surfing shots from Saturday morning, it's not easy to get detail in the riders when shooting into the sunrise but it's the only time I can get down there at the moment.





 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Hey kids!

Looking to sell off some gear soon. Up for grabs is my;
  • Nikon D300s body
  • Nikon MB-D10 Battery Grip
  • Nikkor AF-S 17-55 f/2.8

Everything is in exceptional condition. I'm the original owner of the body and grip. The lens was purchased off a wedding photographer who purchased it for his back up body, used it at one wedding and palmed it off to me. All boxes and manuals provided in addition to a cheeky sensor clean.


(At right)

PM me with any questions :)
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Went and played photographer Sunday for Rick (Fearless Cycles)
I like!

Flash at right might be a little close in number two and whilst I dig three, I think that the bike would have suffered a little less distortion had it been central in the frame (looks a little elongated in the rear compared to the front ...) Still, awesome work my friend!

:)
 

CraigS

Likes Dirt
Well, it's clearly working out for you!
Shot with the 70-200 sigma yes?
Yep, most of the surfing shots are only at around 135mm but that would be close to 200mm on FF and all at 2.8. Got the shutter up to 1/8000th at times.

It might be a bit late, but if anyone (from Sydney) wants to join me tomorrow morning for a sunrise shoot, I'll be at Sandon Point in Wollongong at 5am. So far Andrew (Unlearn) will be joining me. Anyone is welcome to come along, would be good to officially meet some more snobbers and bounce different ideas and techniques off each other.
 
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Jaydawgz

Likes Dirt
Yep, most of the surfing shots are only at around 135mm but that would be close to 200mm on FF and all at 2.8. Got the shutter up to 1/8000th at times.
I'm going to sound like a bit of a noob here, but what exactly is the go with the full frame sensor?
Were you at full zoom Craig?

On another note, I bought my first flash today, Canon 430ex II.
Any tips on learning the basics and experimenting?

Also whats the best and preferably cheapest way off taking it wireless?
 
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AngoXC

Wheel size expert
I'm going to sound like a bit of a noob here, but what exactly is the go with the full frame sensor?
APS-C format sensors, like you have on your 7D and Craig has on his 50D feature a smaller area to form the image than traditional 35 mm cameras ('full frame'). They are also referred to as 'crop' bodies because the image space is compressed (1.5x for Nikon and 1.6x for Canon for example). Many people like to think of the crop body as an extension of a lens. For example, if we use our humble 50mm lens on a Nikon APS-C body, it would be the equivalent filed of view to that of a 75mm lens on a FF body. It isn't really extending the lens, more, compressing the relative field of view. So if Craig is at full zoom on his 70-200, it would be like having a 320mm lens on a FF camera.



Since a FF sensor is larger, it has more surface area to receive light - the result is better performance and detail in low light (since you don't have to bump up your ISO). However, an APS-C format camera will more or less permit you to get closer to your subject so there are pros and cons of each format. FF and crop also affect DoF in different ways but that can be a lesson for later :)


Any tips on learning the basics and experimenting?

Also whats the best and preferably cheapest way off taking it wireless?
Just experiment. Your camera and flash are very smart and do practically all the work for you. Leave the flash in eTTL and fire away. Remember that with the pivoting head, you can 'bounce' you flash in order to diffuse the light (spread it out and make it less harsh). Make use of walls, ceilings and other large white surfaces to bounce light off. If you need more light, you can bump up the power output. If you need less, dial it down. Simple really :)

In terms of wireless, cheapest option is to jump on eBay and get yourself some Wireless Flash Triggers. I personally use Cactus V4s (available off Gadget Infinity.com) - I know a number of other Snobbers do too. Most of these cheaper flash triggers will not permit you to just point and shoot though - you'll need to manually set flash output etc.
 
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24alpha

mtbpicsonline.com
I'm going to sound like a bit of a noob here, but what exactly is the go with the full frame sensor?
Were you at full zoom Craig?

On another note, I bought my first flash today, Canon 430ex II.
Any tips on learning the basics and experimenting?

Also whats the best and preferably cheapest way off taking it wireless?
Jay, I know we have nearly 2000 pages in this thread, but it's a seriously good read. Go back to about 1000 and read on from there, there is some seriously good stuff that has already been covered with flashes, triggers etc. You'll get yourself upto speed in no time.
 

Jaydawgz

Likes Dirt
Thanks Ango.
Finally someone explains it in an understandable way!

I'm glad that I can just put it and leave it in auto, made me worry when I read the manual.
 

saMfish

Likes Dirt
I went for a sunrise shoot this morning, they are so much more amazing than sunsets.

Not sure why, but this photo looks wayyyyy over sharpened. That being said, I love it to bits :) I realllllllyyyy need a set of ND grad filters! What's the standard here? Cokin P? Any help (and constructive criticism on my photograph) would be greatly appreciated.
 
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