The QUICK question thread.....

It happens. Did you use rim tape, bear stuff that looks like rim tape or that other shit people rave about? Just undo it all and put decent tape on.
 
The rim(tape)job is stock from the shop. I've not changed the tyres either. Front one started leaking too from the valve stem. I'll take it apart tomorrow and have a crack at fixing it.

Any recommendations on
A) tape
B) sealant

I'll pick this up tonight.
 
Squidfayce said:
How would I have buggered it?
Click to expand...

Popping the tyre bead, the tyre bead glues itself to the edge of the rim tape with rubbery dried sealant, as your push the bead it into the valley to 'crack it' with your thumbs, it peels the tape back with it... even happens on the best tape jobs.
Just get a roll of tape for emergencies.

I love the Bontrager tubeless system, even if the rims are made of butter and the spokes are like uncooked spaghetti sticks.

The stretchy plastic strip sits right up rim wall and sealant doesn't stick to it.

 
So some research tells me co ventional wisdom is to get tape wider than my rims. Rims are DT ex511 30mm. 35mm rim tape seems a bit wide.
 
By the time its stretched and allow some extra for down in the valley, you will need 32-33mm tape (35mm), you just dont want to tape up the wall as this will fold over and allow sealant down under the tape.

I put a tiny drip of superglue on the end between the tape and rim, pull it super tight all the way around and keep the tension on, de-tension on the overlap, cut the tape into a point and put another little drip of superglue on the end to stop it lifting. The use a heat gun the whole way around pressing the tape in with cloth or gloves as it will be bloody hot.

EDIT: A few weeks back, I built one of my boys a set of DT M502 which are a 30mm internal width, a cheaper version of the EX511, I used 32mm tape on them.

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I've found some cleaning agents can leave a film of oil residue behind and the tape doesn't adhere properly to the rim. I stretch the tape slightly every 10 to 15 cm around the rim, then I push it down fairly hard with a cloth and at the same time to squeeze all the air out. Leaving a tube in overnight does a good job of sticking the tape down too. Depending on the rim bed profile, some rims can be more difficult than others.
 
Flow-Rider said:
I've found some cleaning agents can leave a film of oil residue behind and the tape doesn't adhere properly to the rim. I stretch the tape slightly every 10 to 15 cm around the rim, then I push it down fairly hard with a cloth and at the same time to squeeze all the air out. Leaving a tube in overnight does a good job of sticking the tape down too. Depending on the rim bed profile, some rims can be more difficult than others.
Click to expand...
Same process, but without tube. Previous talk of superglue is madness.
 
moorey said:
Previous talk of superglue is madness.
Click to expand...

Its not being slabbered everywhere, just a dot to hold the tape and the dot to hold it on place is between 2 layers of rim tape.

It stops tape creeping back towards the valve core when sealant get under it which I'm sure everyone has experience or seen at some stage.

If the tape needs replaced, the glue scrapes off with a small screwdriver.
 
How do I determine the longest dropper I can get? (Large v3 banshee prime).

If I have the max insertion depth from Banshee (235mm), and seat tube length of 455mm. I can then measure my current bike's BB to saddle height. Do I just take:
ST length + Dropper length (eg 170mm) + (dropper mast - max insert) = min saddle height?
 
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