The Self Sufficient Bike Camping Thread.
- Thread starter Dreggsy
- Start date
DaGonz
Eats Squid
Review went into MBA so can't really post it up, but I dragged it under and over all sorts of things for a week on my trip to newcastle last year.
As a rack, the thing held up pretty well. I managed to break a pannier attachment running into a pole (I forgot I had panniers on and was having some fun), but the rack was just fine. If I was to buy one, I'd get the flat deck, not the sport deck. Depending on where your cable guides are, the attachment may not be as straight forward as the marketing blurb. Wasn't too much of an issue for me 'cause I generally run full length outers so just snipped the cable ties and reattached. You may want to consider some sort of frame protection on the areas it straps too, and if you have pencil thin seat stays, look elsewhere. If I was heading into remote siberia, I'd look at an old man mountain rack though, and probably not use a dually
Otherwise I thought it held up fine.they're a little heavier than an OMM say, probably not as bullet proof, but more flexible in attachment and use IMHO. so it comes down to what you're planning to do. In theory, they can hold 25k'gs, which is more than a seat post rack. In practice I'm not sure how you'd strap that much to one without panniers.
The experience on the whole drove me towards trying to fit everything inside seat/bar/frame bags though
Strapping things to the outside or on top of things is just a plain pain in the arse, and Panniers are annoying if you ever have to walk the bike or drag it under/over things. Your mileage may vary...Cheers
Spoonie
Elbo
pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Nice, it's a great shot. Perfect focus on the eyes, which is very difficult as you mention yourself with such a shallow depth of field. Much more control rocking back and forth rather than touching the focus ring.
Yes, I was wondering whether or not it would act like a BOB trailer. It sounds like it behaves in quite a similar way, but with a better turning circle and is probably slightly less cumbersome to cart around. The higher centre of gravity of the load had me thinking it wouldn't be that great, but I assume it is offset by the weight being centred around the axle while the wheel turns. So it acts like a giant gyroscope in that the centre remains quite stable.
Thanks, I will check that out. You make some good points about following the routes trail bike riders take, should be a better indicator of being passable by bike (as you mentioned, there would be places to restock and doable river crossings, although high rivers shouldn't be a problem in late November/early December as the snow melt should've gone by then.)
That's a good idea FatGuts. If I head towards Braidwood, I can perhaps duck off for a couple of days on the way to do an Ettrema Gorge trip with the information Wassa has kindly offered, then join back on and continue heading south. I've finalised part of my route (the final part), that part involves riding the BNT from Thredbo through Omeo to Dargo and then riding the Dargo High Plains Road to Mt Hotham, then Rail Trail from Bright to Myrtleford then through Yackandandah to Albury. This way goes fairly deep into North East Victoria, but I know that country well and have the Spatial Vision VICmap book for NE Victoria and the Dargo High Plains road is a favourite of mine and there is some beautiful country all the way along there.
Yes, I read your report with great interest Wassa. I will re-read it to understand more about the Ettrema area. Thanks very much for the offer of having a chat. I will keep working my route out and if I decide that I will still go by Ettrema I will send you a PM to arrange a time to call and have a chat.
Another thing I'd like to do is straddle the Murray River at its very beginning. But that may be difficult to get there coming from Braidwood > Jerangle > Bredbo > Cooma. The only way may be to take the Cascade Trail just after Thredbo, turning off the Alpine Way and following that onto Cowombat Trail (just looking off Google Earth), but holy sheet that would be hard (but some amazing valleys through there I'd imagine)… maybe taking more than 3 weeks in itself… If not possible, I would want to join the BNT at Tom Groggin and ride through to Dargo where I'll take the Dargo High Plains Road as I mentioned above.
Beautiful shots! All this information is very helpful. As is Michael Rogers BNT track report, I clicked the link and then spent all the other night reading it. Addictive stuff. Love how he and his mate just use their old steel bikes! It's all about the challenge and ingenuity and not just about the latest and greatest gear.
Sorry for the muddled up nature of this post!!
FatGuts
Likes Dirt
Elbo, I have done Cascades as far as Tin Mines, we then turned left & headed north east towards Injebirah (on the Barry Way).
Cascades has a fairly big climb from the Thredbo River onto Bobs Ridge but it is so worth it it's not funny. The climb isn't that bad, we walked probably 2-300m of it with 15kg of gear on board in panniers. When you get to the top stop at the sign that says Bobs Ridge & climb up to the rocks on the southern side of the track, you can see well into Victora, the end of the main range & east towards the coast.
From here tha track flows down for ages into the creek, it's great fun with some sensational table drains (yes I did get some air thanks to my old steel Specialised). You can drop into Cascades hut just off the trail or keep going to Tin Mines which is about 25km from Alpine Way. The track is fairly easy and undulating from Cascades to Tin Mines.
You could come in from Injebyrah but you would need permission to get in there from the land owners on the edge of the Barry way. It's also quite steep, we had a 600m climb to Stockwhip Hill in about 7km & it was quite hard going. It was worth it though as we wound down to the Jacobs River for about 10km but as you know, what goes down must go up ..........
If you go this way, do yourself a favour & camp at Tin Mines, awesome spot with a herd of Brumbies. When we were there there was a young stallion trying to move in on the herd. The old bloke would have nothing to do with it & gave him what for. All this played out less than 200m from us.
We camped with a bloke that was doing the Hume & Hovell & he said that it was pretty easy going down to Cowambat Flat. He detoured up to Pilot & said it was well worth it so keep that in mind.
Now, if you are goingto go this way you will have washed off a massive amount of altitude that you have gained heading up to Dead Horse Gap, you may want to re-think Omeo as you will be climbing back over the range again. There is still plenty to see if you head SE to say Orbost or Lakes Entrance.
Anyway, food for thought. You are making me want to head down there now .................
Cascades has a fairly big climb from the Thredbo River onto Bobs Ridge but it is so worth it it's not funny. The climb isn't that bad, we walked probably 2-300m of it with 15kg of gear on board in panniers. When you get to the top stop at the sign that says Bobs Ridge & climb up to the rocks on the southern side of the track, you can see well into Victora, the end of the main range & east towards the coast.
From here tha track flows down for ages into the creek, it's great fun with some sensational table drains (yes I did get some air thanks to my old steel Specialised). You can drop into Cascades hut just off the trail or keep going to Tin Mines which is about 25km from Alpine Way. The track is fairly easy and undulating from Cascades to Tin Mines.
You could come in from Injebyrah but you would need permission to get in there from the land owners on the edge of the Barry way. It's also quite steep, we had a 600m climb to Stockwhip Hill in about 7km & it was quite hard going. It was worth it though as we wound down to the Jacobs River for about 10km but as you know, what goes down must go up ..........
If you go this way, do yourself a favour & camp at Tin Mines, awesome spot with a herd of Brumbies. When we were there there was a young stallion trying to move in on the herd. The old bloke would have nothing to do with it & gave him what for. All this played out less than 200m from us.
We camped with a bloke that was doing the Hume & Hovell & he said that it was pretty easy going down to Cowambat Flat. He detoured up to Pilot & said it was well worth it so keep that in mind.
Now, if you are goingto go this way you will have washed off a massive amount of altitude that you have gained heading up to Dead Horse Gap, you may want to re-think Omeo as you will be climbing back over the range again. There is still plenty to see if you head SE to say Orbost or Lakes Entrance.
Anyway, food for thought. You are making me want to head down there now .................
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FatGuts
Likes Dirt
I just saw your comment on the steel bikes. I actually prefer doing these sorts of trips on the old Specialised (a 1997 Hard Rock) & I think it carries the loads better. I have been thinking that my next off road tourer will be a 29er steel framed fully rigid with some good brakes (no more vee brakes for me) & an internally geared hub.
I would also like a triple on the front as I am not getting any younger & I unashamedly love my granny gear ..............
I would also like a triple on the front as I am not getting any younger & I unashamedly love my granny gear ..............
Elbo
pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Thanks for the information FatGuts, sounds like a great ride! Would be amazing to see some Brumbies!! I will keep those options in mind for travelling into Gippsland as well as I have family in Sale, so not too far from Lakes Entrance (visiting them over the years is the reason I know and love the Dargo High Plains Road.) Heading down that way onto the flat for a few days might do me good to recover (and get a home cooked meal from my Grandmother
) before the final crossing of the high country from Dargo to Bright.And regarding bikes, I bought my Surly Troll with a similar mindset, to last a long time! I wanted something made of steel, with braze-ons for racks, and something just very simple and reliable. Initially I was going to go for an IGH, but cost more than anything meant I ended up going with a standard 27 speed derailleur drive train. It's hard to draw the line between practicality and simplicity sometimes. Although my bike is new now, hopefully it will see lots and lots of kilometres and will still be my bike of choice for off road touring in 14 years time, just like FatGuts old Specialized Hard Rock.
Reading something like Michael Rogers report and seeing them using their old bikes riding some pretty crazy terrain and reading of people making their own frame bags and the like in this thread and experimenting with different setups is really refreshing in this day and age when so many people's first port of call is to outsource to find solutions to their problems rather than come up with an answer themselves and increase their skills and ingenuity.
PS: If anyone wants any information on riding around the Mitta Mitta Valley in North East Victoria, I have a nice 150km / 3 day fire-trail loop I did with a friend at the end of last year. I wrote up an article for my local MTB club newsletter, however I will eventually get around to signing up to 'Crazyguyonabike' and re-writing it into more of a report.
DaGonz
Eats Squid
IMHO, I think those that take these sorts of challenges on are usually always looking to do it bigger, better or faster... My experience with off the shelf kit has been "well that was nice, but I didn't like this...". There's a certain level of anal retentativeness that kicks in about small things I think when you have to put up with it for more than a day or two
150km in 3 days? were you walking???
Cheers
Spoonie
Elbo
pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Good points Spoonie. A lot of refining of equipment and experimenting with different approaches that's best done by oneself.IMHO, I think those that take these sorts of challenges on are usually always looking to do it bigger, better or faster... My experience with off the shelf kit has been "well that was nice, but I didn't like this...". There's a certain level of anal retentativeness that kicks in about small things I think when you have to put up with it for more than a day or two
150km in 3 days? were you walking???
Cheers
Spoonie
Yeah, walking a lot! Heavy rain for 2 of the 3 days made it slippery and difficult. Biggest hill took 2 hours of pushing to cover 1.5km. Discovered that 49m deep valley's can hide themselves well in 50m contour lines. That part was not fun, but there was a great 1000m descent at the end back down to Little Snowy Creek. Varied terrain and wildlife was nice and saw a heap of lyre birds.
mattsctr
Squid
In the spirit of extreme geekness maybe some of the following will prove helpful.
A couple of years ago I spent 5 self sufficient days cycling in the Italian dolomites. In addition to usual spares and clothing my kit included the following which I reckon is about the minimum I needed. The dried meals saved a huge amount of weight and after a day on the trails were actually pretty tasty. Obviously water was the heaviest single item.
Vango spectre 2 man tent - 1.5kg - Split the tent & poles between 2 of us.
10 x Mountain House dried meals (1 for lunch and 1 for dinner) - 1kg
6 x Sachets of porridge 0.5kg
Diced dried fruit to add to porridge 0.01kg
Alpkit self inflatable mat - 0.5kg
Eurohike 500 down sleeping bag - 1.5kg
1 spork
1 trangia ti stove - 0.03kg
1 butane gas cartridge - 0.01kg
1 trangia stove to boil water for food and to cook porridge
5 energy gels
10 litres of water + approx 15 litres filled up en route
toothbrush & paste
self made first aid kit
Petzle zipka head torch
A couple of years ago I spent 5 self sufficient days cycling in the Italian dolomites. In addition to usual spares and clothing my kit included the following which I reckon is about the minimum I needed. The dried meals saved a huge amount of weight and after a day on the trails were actually pretty tasty. Obviously water was the heaviest single item.
Vango spectre 2 man tent - 1.5kg - Split the tent & poles between 2 of us.
10 x Mountain House dried meals (1 for lunch and 1 for dinner) - 1kg
6 x Sachets of porridge 0.5kg
Diced dried fruit to add to porridge 0.01kg
Alpkit self inflatable mat - 0.5kg
Eurohike 500 down sleeping bag - 1.5kg
1 spork
1 trangia ti stove - 0.03kg
1 butane gas cartridge - 0.01kg
1 trangia stove to boil water for food and to cook porridge
5 energy gels
10 litres of water + approx 15 litres filled up en route
toothbrush & paste
self made first aid kit
Petzle zipka head torch
Its nearly time for another ride. Good luck with the weather if you are camping under the stars. I see the BOM is forecasting drier conditions from now until Christmas, for the SE. There is only a 75% chance of 200mm of rain in the Snowies. I'm glad the forecast is for drier conditions ... I'd hate to see it wet.
The weather is here ... I wish you were beautiful.
Warren.
The weather is here ... I wish you were beautiful.
Warren.
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Dreggsy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
cheap sleeping bag
it's not top of the line but for $99 it could be ok.
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/K8SLDN1CS
it's not top of the line but for $99 it could be ok.
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/K8SLDN1CS
Scouts have the right idea...
Had a hit out yesterday from Awaba MTB Park up the hill & out to Barraba Camping area - part of the Great North Walk through the Watagans. This ride showed me the value in being prepared for all eventualities.
After a solid climb up Mt Faulk Rd, I cruised along Heaton Rd, then turned off at the junction of Georges Rd to follow the GNW out to Barraba camp site. 10 mins down & I feel the back wheel is a bit squirmy - busted spoke. Not a big issue, so I get the spoke tensioner out & after a few minutes of fiddling (no spare spoke mind you) wheel seems fine to continue.
I pull into Barraba Campsite (what a beautiful spot) after 2.5 hrs riding & stop for a bite to eat. Text the wife to tell her I'll be riding for another 1.5 - 2 hrs to get back to the car. 15 minutes later, on the return trip, I feel something give in the rear wheel & it develops a wicked buckle on a sharp downhill. When I check the wheel I've busted a second spoke. Now ordinarily this shouldn't be a huge issue, but I'm riding Fulcrum Red Metal 3 tubeless wheels, (which have been faultless for the past 12 months) and they run a 2:1 spoke ratio for drive vs non-drive side & both spokes were from the "1" ratio side right next to each other. In hindsight I should have stolen a spoke from the other side to balance it out - but it just didn't occur to me at the time.
I'm not great with wheels, so needless to say as I tinkered with them I am sure I made the buckle worse. It was so bad that the wheel would solidly stall every revolution & took quite a bit of effort to get past the buckle. I resolve to try walking the uphills & to try to coast the downhills as best I can. First downhill, above the noise of the tyre 'whumping' on the frame it starts to hiss at me. FFS!!!
Slashed sidewall about an inch long. WOOHOO - glad I packed a spare tube, so in it goes. I'm picking my lines supercarefully & going slow on the downhills as the buckle gets worse & worse. Eventually I stop, get out my swiss army knife (another point for being prepared) & cut off all of the side knobs that are rubbing on the frame - makes a HUGE difference to the ride - now I can even pedal (slowly) on the flats - takes a buttload more effort though. So I pedal/walk along for a few more Km till I again hear that bedevilled hissing noise from my rear tyre at the same spot as my sidewall cut. It goes flat, & being completely deflated myself, I simply get off & walk.
A couple of Km later I regain my good spirits - after all It's Sunday afternoon & I am in the great outdoors - I sit down & repair my punctured tube - this time stuffing some cardboard inside the sidewall to prevent a third puncture at the same spot. I again start riding the downhills & walking the uphills (there is simply too much 'squirm' in the wheel when seated climbing) till I get to the top of Mt Faulk Rd. From here it's 6Km or so of downhill back to Awaba MTB Park. I gingerly make my way down the hill - with my back wheel doing it's darndest impression of a PBR bull ride trying to throw me off - till I get back to the car.
The looks on the faces of people in the carpark when they heard my bike coming was gold! Not a single how are you, or how the #### did you do that, but I'd well and truly had enough by then & headed home. Ride time was supposed to be 4hrs, which blew out to 6.5.
This ride was only about 50km, but turned into an epic day. I'll carry spokes in my spares kit from now on, & man was I glad that I'd decided to carry a full bladder of water plus a bottle.
Great trails, awesome views, looking forward to trying it again - perhaps with mates next time. Oh, and if you are interested in this route yourself, it had Vodafone mobile access the whole way along.
Had a hit out yesterday from Awaba MTB Park up the hill & out to Barraba Camping area - part of the Great North Walk through the Watagans. This ride showed me the value in being prepared for all eventualities.
After a solid climb up Mt Faulk Rd, I cruised along Heaton Rd, then turned off at the junction of Georges Rd to follow the GNW out to Barraba camp site. 10 mins down & I feel the back wheel is a bit squirmy - busted spoke. Not a big issue, so I get the spoke tensioner out & after a few minutes of fiddling (no spare spoke mind you) wheel seems fine to continue.
I pull into Barraba Campsite (what a beautiful spot) after 2.5 hrs riding & stop for a bite to eat. Text the wife to tell her I'll be riding for another 1.5 - 2 hrs to get back to the car. 15 minutes later, on the return trip, I feel something give in the rear wheel & it develops a wicked buckle on a sharp downhill. When I check the wheel I've busted a second spoke. Now ordinarily this shouldn't be a huge issue, but I'm riding Fulcrum Red Metal 3 tubeless wheels, (which have been faultless for the past 12 months) and they run a 2:1 spoke ratio for drive vs non-drive side & both spokes were from the "1" ratio side right next to each other. In hindsight I should have stolen a spoke from the other side to balance it out - but it just didn't occur to me at the time.
I'm not great with wheels, so needless to say as I tinkered with them I am sure I made the buckle worse. It was so bad that the wheel would solidly stall every revolution & took quite a bit of effort to get past the buckle. I resolve to try walking the uphills & to try to coast the downhills as best I can. First downhill, above the noise of the tyre 'whumping' on the frame it starts to hiss at me. FFS!!!
Slashed sidewall about an inch long. WOOHOO - glad I packed a spare tube, so in it goes. I'm picking my lines supercarefully & going slow on the downhills as the buckle gets worse & worse. Eventually I stop, get out my swiss army knife (another point for being prepared) & cut off all of the side knobs that are rubbing on the frame - makes a HUGE difference to the ride - now I can even pedal (slowly) on the flats - takes a buttload more effort though. So I pedal/walk along for a few more Km till I again hear that bedevilled hissing noise from my rear tyre at the same spot as my sidewall cut. It goes flat, & being completely deflated myself, I simply get off & walk.
A couple of Km later I regain my good spirits - after all It's Sunday afternoon & I am in the great outdoors - I sit down & repair my punctured tube - this time stuffing some cardboard inside the sidewall to prevent a third puncture at the same spot. I again start riding the downhills & walking the uphills (there is simply too much 'squirm' in the wheel when seated climbing) till I get to the top of Mt Faulk Rd. From here it's 6Km or so of downhill back to Awaba MTB Park. I gingerly make my way down the hill - with my back wheel doing it's darndest impression of a PBR bull ride trying to throw me off - till I get back to the car.
The looks on the faces of people in the carpark when they heard my bike coming was gold! Not a single how are you, or how the #### did you do that, but I'd well and truly had enough by then & headed home. Ride time was supposed to be 4hrs, which blew out to 6.5.
This ride was only about 50km, but turned into an epic day. I'll carry spokes in my spares kit from now on, & man was I glad that I'd decided to carry a full bladder of water plus a bottle.
Great trails, awesome views, looking forward to trying it again - perhaps with mates next time. Oh, and if you are interested in this route yourself, it had Vodafone mobile access the whole way along.
Lordflog, according to the 'Dictionary of Mountain Bike Slang' an Epic n. is a ride that must last for at least six hours and include at least three mechanicals that add at least an extra hour to the ride time. Your epic was bordering on a Death March n. See Bataan Death March n.
Bad luck, well endured and a good read.
Warren.
Bad luck, well endured and a good read.
Warren.
Ben-e
Captain Critter!
In the spirit of extreme geekness maybe some of the following will prove helpful.
A couple of years ago I spent 5 self sufficient days cycling in the Italian dolomites. In addition to usual spares and clothing my kit included the following which I reckon is about the minimum I needed. The dried meals saved a huge amount of weight and after a day on the trails were actually pretty tasty. Obviously water was the heaviest single item.
Vango spectre 2 man tent - 1.5kg - Split the tent & poles between 2 of us.
10 x Mountain House dried meals (1 for lunch and 1 for dinner) - 1kg
6 x Sachets of porridge 0.5kg
Diced dried fruit to add to porridge 0.01kg
Alpkit self inflatable mat - 0.5kg
Eurohike 500 down sleeping bag - 1.5kg
1 spork
1 trangia ti stove - 0.03kg
1 butane gas cartridge - 0.01kg
1 trangia stove to boil water for food and to cook porridge
5 energy gels
10 litres of water + approx 15 litres filled up en route
toothbrush & paste
self made first aid kit
Petzle zipka head torch
Looks like a well thought out kit, really good weight too. I brought a similar spec'd kit to Europe last year when I was trekking through Italy and the Swiss Alps, I would love to have done the trip on a bike..
Did you both carry the gear in a backpack or fastened to the frame?
SummitFever
Eats Squid
I ditched my Red Metal Zero's for the back country trips. Even though they never gave me any problems, the low spoke count and hard to obtain spares (no one in Aust could get me spare spokes) meant that I was much better off with 32 spoke rims for touring. The replacement set of wheels I built up ended up being lighter than the Fulcrums and felt stronger. With 32 spokes you can easily break a spoke and keep going without even noticing, but I always take spare spokes with me as well.
For really getting the weight down, a good place to start is with an ultralight backpack. I use a Gossamer Gear Mariposa Plus. It is the most comfortable pack I've ever owned and at 675g for a 59l pack is light but surprisingly tough. Total pack weight for a 4 day spring/summer/autumn trip in the high country is normally around 8kg plus water. For winter, the heavy sleeping bag plus tent takes the weight up to 10kg.
I like to keep the bike light and carry most of the stuff in a pack. You can go much faster over the rough technical stuff and can get the most enjoyment out of some of the amazing descents. I normally incorporate some pretty significant bush walking components to allow camping on the summits of the prime peaks, so at that point you've got to ditch the bike anyway and carry all your gear. If you can keep your pack weight down and low enough gears that you can remain seated on the steepest climbs then it makes for a really sweet setup. Panniers etc. are the go for road touring, but as soon as it gets rough and you want to make good time, nothing beats a comfy, well fitting pack (provided you can fit everything you need in the pack).
For really getting the weight down, a good place to start is with an ultralight backpack. I use a Gossamer Gear Mariposa Plus. It is the most comfortable pack I've ever owned and at 675g for a 59l pack is light but surprisingly tough. Total pack weight for a 4 day spring/summer/autumn trip in the high country is normally around 8kg plus water. For winter, the heavy sleeping bag plus tent takes the weight up to 10kg.
I like to keep the bike light and carry most of the stuff in a pack. You can go much faster over the rough technical stuff and can get the most enjoyment out of some of the amazing descents. I normally incorporate some pretty significant bush walking components to allow camping on the summits of the prime peaks, so at that point you've got to ditch the bike anyway and carry all your gear. If you can keep your pack weight down and low enough gears that you can remain seated on the steepest climbs then it makes for a really sweet setup. Panniers etc. are the go for road touring, but as soon as it gets rough and you want to make good time, nothing beats a comfy, well fitting pack (provided you can fit everything you need in the pack).
for the guys that run drop bars
for the guys that run drop bars, do you find cross top levers beneficial on bikepacking trips? I've got a fuji touring bike that I'll be using for gravel touring/light offroad exploring and I think the cross levers might be handy to have...or will they get in the way of maps/handlebar bags etc?
cheers
for the guys that run drop bars, do you find cross top levers beneficial on bikepacking trips? I've got a fuji touring bike that I'll be using for gravel touring/light offroad exploring and I think the cross levers might be handy to have...or will they get in the way of maps/handlebar bags etc?
cheers
m_g, G'day.
Pretend you are looking at drop bars that have had the primary levers re-routed through cross levers. Here is one way of solving the issue of choking the cables.
A Vaude Klick Fix for moving a Vaude bar box out of the way. In the past I used a Caribee bar bag, then a few years ago I got rid of it. It didn't work well, I don't think it ever hung well. I didn't think then about setting up longer cables or tuning the system properly by re-sewing new webbing onto the bag. This year I bought a Vaude Road Master bar box (6lts), it is most efficient. It comes with a map case, and has several easy to get to pockets and a rain coat come dust cover. I should have bought one of these things years ago. It clips off or back on in a second.
If you do buy something like this, make sure that the parts (the bar shoes) fit the diameter of your bars where the bar swells close to the stem. The bar shoes come in different diameters to suit half a dozen different sizes.
Warren.
Pretend you are looking at drop bars that have had the primary levers re-routed through cross levers. Here is one way of solving the issue of choking the cables.
A Vaude Klick Fix for moving a Vaude bar box out of the way. In the past I used a Caribee bar bag, then a few years ago I got rid of it. It didn't work well, I don't think it ever hung well. I didn't think then about setting up longer cables or tuning the system properly by re-sewing new webbing onto the bag. This year I bought a Vaude Road Master bar box (6lts), it is most efficient. It comes with a map case, and has several easy to get to pockets and a rain coat come dust cover. I should have bought one of these things years ago. It clips off or back on in a second.
If you do buy something like this, make sure that the parts (the bar shoes) fit the diameter of your bars where the bar swells close to the stem. The bar shoes come in different diameters to suit half a dozen different sizes.
Warren.
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Hey Warren,m_g, G'day.
Pretend you are looking at drop bars that have had the primary levers re-routed through cross levers. Here is one way of solving the issue of choking the cables.
A Vaude Klick Fix for moving a Vaude bar box out of the way. In the past I used a Caribee bar bag, then a few years ago I got rid of it. It didn't work well, I don't think it ever hung well. I didn't think then about setting up longer cables or tuning the system properly by re-sewing new webbing onto the bag. This year I bought a Vaude Road Master bar box (6lts), it is most efficient. It comes with a map case, and has several easy to get to pockets and a rain coat come dust cover. I should have bought one of these things years ago. It clips off or back on in a second.
If you do buy something like this, make sure that the parts (the bar shoes) fit the diameter of your bars where the bar swells close to the stem. The bar shoes come in different diameters to suit half a dozen different sizes.
Warren.
Now that is pretty cool...Would keep everything out of the way, and can read a map at the same time. Thanks mate, will check it out for sure.
Cheers
marcus