Torque Settings for Trance ’13 BB
- Thread starter mtec
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The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
No torque on a press-fit BB. :wink:
However, chckt the crank bolts; if it's Shimano, loosen the two pinch bolts through the butt of the left crank, then check the end cap. It should only be firm enough to remove lateral play in the crank - too tight will overtension the bearings. when the end bolt is good, tighten the pinch bolts to 14Nm (some cranks are specified at 15Nm max, but 14 is more common).
If it's SRAM, crank the assembly bolt up really tight, 'cos they do have a habit of loosening off.
Then go & check your headset. 99% of noises in new bikes that get blamed on bottom brackets are actually headsets settling in & slackening off a bit.
However, chckt the crank bolts; if it's Shimano, loosen the two pinch bolts through the butt of the left crank, then check the end cap. It should only be firm enough to remove lateral play in the crank - too tight will overtension the bearings. when the end bolt is good, tighten the pinch bolts to 14Nm (some cranks are specified at 15Nm max, but 14 is more common).
If it's SRAM, crank the assembly bolt up really tight, 'cos they do have a habit of loosening off.
Then go & check your headset. 99% of noises in new bikes that get blamed on bottom brackets are actually headsets settling in & slackening off a bit.
Yeah, I have the SRAM set (X1). So is there any chance of preloading the bearings if over tightened?
How does 40Nm sound on the crank bolt? Not sure I dig this one bolt on the ND side setup. What’s wrong with Ye Old setup with a crank bolt per side? Thanks for the replies too.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
The GXP system clamps the inner race of the left side bearing between the left crank arm and the step on the spindle, while the right side "floats", so there is no way of overtightening the bearings.
Could be that when your bike was assembled, they pressed the BB in dry, hence the creak after a couple of rides now its filled with dust.
If all else fails, replace your BB and press a new one in with plenty of anti seize paste. Use as a last resort, cos you can't re-use a pressfit BB once its been smashed out,
If all else fails, replace your BB and press a new one in with plenty of anti seize paste. Use as a last resort, cos you can't re-use a pressfit BB once its been smashed out,
Blackheath
Likes Bikes
Cut me down if I am wrong
Well I would have thort that having ani-seize would only make the problem worse. My thinking is that if the squeeking is from the bottom bracket moving in the housing then the same affect would happen weather you press it in dry or with some anti-seize. The anti-seize would not allow the bottom bracket stay stationery in the housing due to it be "anti-seize" and you are looking for the bracket to seize into place thus not allowing it to move thus no creak when force is applied.
Thus an bonding agent would be more suitable as you would be tring to stop the bottom bracket moving in its housing achieving no movement. This would stop the very small amount of ware that might also be happening.
Well I would have thort that having ani-seize would only make the problem worse. My thinking is that if the squeeking is from the bottom bracket moving in the housing then the same affect would happen weather you press it in dry or with some anti-seize. The anti-seize would not allow the bottom bracket stay stationery in the housing due to it be "anti-seize" and you are looking for the bracket to seize into place thus not allowing it to move thus no creak when force is applied.
Thus an bonding agent would be more suitable as you would be tring to stop the bottom bracket moving in its housing achieving no movement. This would stop the very small amount of ware that might also be happening.
When you press a press fit BB into a frame you need a massive ass dual piston clamp that pushes the BB cap into the frame using the other side of the BB shell as a guide. The reason why the pressing tool is large is that you need some significant leverage to press the cup in due to the tight tolerance range of a well constructed BB shell.
If your BB cap is loose, loose enough that some bonding agent would prevent it from moving that is, then your gonna have a fuuun time, because it means the tolerances of the BB shell are out.
By applying anti seize to a non-mangled BB cup and pressing it into a well constructed BB shell will aid to reduce creaking due to acting as a sealant from dust and dirt, preventing corrosion which will in turn lead to poor performance and ensuring that if there is any movement of the BB cup, it will be able to move smoothly within your BB shell rather than scraping and catching
Agreed.
I tightened the crank arm a bit, removed the pedals and smeared a small amount of grease on the thread and retightened. The creak seems to be gone for now. I was up the hill yesterday and stoped in to the BS and asked old mate what he thinks about it, he was advising removing the cups and greasing them up on the press fit surface and refitting. I personally don’t agree with the greasing/anti seize method, as a machinist when manufacturing interference fit parts the goal is for them to temporally become one until the part is flogged out and needs replace. So placing grease or any other lube on that surface will defeat the need for the part to be an interference fit. A bearing mount could be used like, Loctite 609 or 641 Retaining Compounds. I expect it would only need to be used once the cup has been removed a fair bit like 8/10 times. If I needed to perform this on a new ride, I will definitely be contacting the manufacture.
I really appreciate the input and the discussion, I dig it.
I am interested in how are you going to remove the BB cup such a way that you can re-use it again?
The internal side of the BB cup does not provide a surface that would apply even pressure on the inner and outer races of the bearing.
I am also glad to hear that applying grease fixed the problem
The internal side of the BB cup does not provide a surface that would apply even pressure on the inner and outer races of the bearing.
I am also glad to hear that applying grease fixed the problem
Only applied a little grease to the thread on the pedal spindle, as I personally think it’s a good idea when fitting parts together that you would like to dismantle in the future. So the grease didn’t solve a thing. Nipping the cranks up on the BB axle did the trick.
To remove a press fit cup, well there are few tools on the market. Pretty much the same concept as the tool you use to remove head set cups from the head tube.
Park Tools Version,
http://www.parktool.com/product/pressfit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3
Can’t see why it could be use until the interference section of the cup becomes to worn or the BBS is worn OS. I’m sure by this time you’re ready for new frame/ride.
To remove a press fit cup, well there are few tools on the market. Pretty much the same concept as the tool you use to remove head set cups from the head tube.
Park Tools Version,
http://www.parktool.com/product/pressfit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3
Can’t see why it could be use until the interference section of the cup becomes to worn or the BBS is worn OS. I’m sure by this time you’re ready for new frame/ride.