Trance shock pivot bolt stuck - advice please

M

macca_1972

Likes Dirt
Hey all,

I have been stripping down my '08 Trance for a rebuild and have run into a problem trying to remove the lower shock bolt. (Indicated by the silver pick tool in the picture below.)

FB_IMG_1493161294439.jpg

I have been trying everything I can to get this sucker out but it is stuck fast. Admittedly it has been in there for around nine years now without being removed. I have doused it in WD40 for two days, tapped with a mallet and socket drift (with a socket underneath for correct support) and also used the sockets with a g-clamp, all to no avail. I am at the point where I feel that applying any more force than I have been will end up cracking or damaging something.

The shock, spacers and non-drive side bearing inner race (pointing at the camera) all rotate freely around the bolt with no binding, which leads me to assume that its the inner race of the drive side pivot bearing that is stuck fast to this bolt. I have spoken to a couple of shops and they can't think of anything they would do beyond what I have already tried. I am starting to wonder if, as an extreme measure, the bolt needs to be drilled out to remove it and replaced with another one.

Has anybody experienced something similar to this? I'd be keen to know how it was tackled and what the outcome was. Many thanks.
 
teK--

teK--

Eats Squid
Yeah use some freeze and release spray.

Then tap the axle out using a thick wooden dowel or a length of broomstick under the mallet so you don't destroy the axle.

Key is to go firm and quick precise strikes.
 
M

macca_1972

Likes Dirt
teK-- said:
Yeah use some freeze and release spray.

Then tap the axle out using a thick wooden dowel or a length of broomstick under the mallet so you don't destroy the axle.

Key is to go firm and quick precise strikes.
Click to expand...

golden path said:
Heat gun maybe? Heat and cool cycles might crack it.
Click to expand...

Was wondering whether temperature-related techniques would be the next thing to try. Everyone I have spoken to has warned me away from using heat though (although they are probably thinking of heat applied by a torch rather than a heat gun) so I'll probably start with the freeze and release.
 
teK--

teK--

Eats Squid
macca_1972 said:
Was wondering whether temperature-related techniques would be the next thing to try. Everyone I have spoken to has warned me away from using heat though (although they are probably thinking of heat applied by a torch rather than a heat gun) so I'll probably start with the freeze and release.
Click to expand...
Try the freeze spray first. It relies on a penetrating oil whilst also pairing it with freezing cold temps to further shift/crack any scale and contaminates.

The rocket pivot bolt that goes through my carbon seat tube was stuck that way and I definitely didn't want to use heat lol. One spray of the stuff and the bolt popped out with a light tap.
 
ctguru

ctguru

Likes Bikes and Dirt
macca_1972 said:
Was wondering whether temperature-related techniques would be the next thing to try. Everyone I have spoken to has warned me away from using heat though (although they are probably thinking of heat applied by a torch rather than a heat gun) so I'll probably start with the freeze and release.
Click to expand...
Maybe use temperature shock, with cold, freeze spray or co2 and just a hair dryer for the heat component


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
c3024446

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Have you let the air out of the shock? :behindsofa:

Sounds like you need to strike it a bit harder. One strong tap in the right spot with the right dowel won't hurt anything....
 
S

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Re-install the bolt and back it out a turn. Bit of heat with a heat gun or freezing it with freeze spray. Hit the bolt head.
 
S

schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Not sure if I'm picturing it right in my head, but when you turn the bolt can you see the lower shock bushings rotating as well?
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
If the drive side bearing is stuck to the pivot bolt and the pivot bolt head is on the same side then you need to support the suspension link itself and drive the bolt and bearing out in one go using a dowell or the non drive side bolt (at least to start with).

Mind you this is based on the assumption that the drive side bearing has not bonded to the alloy link as well.

Heating, cooling and wailing to your preferred deity is not going to beat galvanic corrosion.
 
M

macca_1972

Likes Dirt
Tek if you are ever in Brissy I owe you a beer mate, the Freeze and Release worked perfectly and the bolt is out. Still needed some good hard whacks but I was a happy chappy when it started to move!

Thankfully there were no signs of the expected corrosion and the bolt is still in good usable condition. (Wasnt looking forward to sourcing another one....) Plenty of brown gunk kept flushing out each time I applied the spray, so I guess nine years worth of crap had it bound it up to the point where it wasn't budging until I did this.

Happy days! Thanks all for the tips and advice, I appreciate it. This has saved me the hassle and expense of getting it looked at, with a tight budget (hence no new new bike as was suggested!) this is a major win for me.
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Let this be a lesson to you all; first you apply the loctite then you apply the grease. And as always it puts the lotion on its skin, or it gets the hose again...
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
pink poodle said:
Let this be a lesson to you all; first you apply the loctite then you apply the grease. And as always it puts the lotion on its skin, or it gets the hose again...
Click to expand...
Loctite!!!??? Just crossthread and torque her up for the most solid of holds.
 
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