TUBELESS TYRE MEGATHREAD - All questions asked and answered in here!!

[spikenet]

try it "as is" with tubeless valve and some sealant. worked fine with my dt rims.

if it leaks to much then just rip that rim tape off and put some 3M reinforced tape on (like come with stans kit) and should be right.

 

[pistonbroke]

try it "as is" with tubeless valve and some sealant. worked fine with my dt rims.

if it leaks to much then just rip that rim tape off and put some 3M reinforced tape on (like come with stans kit) and should be right.

Ok will do. I can't wait to see what the LBS wants to sting me for those.

 

[Jed21]

I just converted a set of 420's to tubeless this weekend. Going of the notubes web site they recommended removing the factory rim tape and using the tape supplied in the kit thats just the fiberglass reinforced tape then put the rubber rim strip in. I think the 20" bike tyre method would work very well but if your lazy like me get the kit. I use Geax tyers and was able to inflate them with no soap suds and the also held air over night without any sealant so all should be good.

 

[pistonbroke]

The shop gave me the tubeless valves and I just did it as is. The wheels seem to have sealed fine, but the tyres and sealant are rubbish. The tyres are Specialized fast trak lk's running the Specialized sealant as recommended by the shop(I think it's all they had). The tyres are specs 2Bliss set up.

I installed and inflated using a floor pump easily but the sidewalls just won't stop leaking. At first they were flat in a couple of hour, but after about 150kms of riding they ONLY need to be pumped up once a day. The sidewalls feel super thin and very stretchy if that makes sense. And they will not stop weeping from various small holes in the sidewall.
Can you get a warranty claim on tyres? Not too happy with the sealant either.

I have run Maxxis LUST tyres for years with Stans sealant with great results.

 

[Jed21]

I was wondering how the Specialized tyres hold up, I have a set of the control fast track that I loved but they have done a few km's, I was going to get more but they were hard to get at the LBS. The ones I have now you can see the side wall material in a number of places so they must be fairly thin. Saying that I never had a flat in about 9 months of riding them and running super thin tubes. The Geax did not leak anything through the side walls at all, no sealant has come through and they stayer inflated without sealant.

 

[Flying haggis]

I was wondering how the Specialized tyres hold up, The Geax did not leak anything through the side walls at all, no sealant has come through and they stayer inflated without sealant.

I ran Specialized Fast Tracks tubeless on DT 445D rims and had no problems with them, after some initial teething issues. Although if your gonna go to the trouble of switching to tubeless I would use new or near new tyres. That way you dont end up having to fit new ones a month or so down the track.

I use Geax tyres now on the same rims with a Stans tubeless kit. Upto now have had no problems. (knock on wood)

 

[pistonbroke]

Brand new bike/wheels/tyres.

However this bike is an 09 model built in feb 09 but only purchased a week ago. I have a feeling that the tyres have perished which is causing these issues. The bike has been sitting around with flat tyres for 12 months with flat tyres. Who knows how old the tyres were when fitted to the bike?

 

[Ozza]

What sort of tyre pressures are people running for downhill? In the past I have been riding some tracks with pretty aggresive cornering and burped it here and their. Dont really want to be mucking around with pressueres to much, I definately hate my tryes firm, absolutely no traction I would rather roll slower. I was thinking around 28/30 front and 30/32 rear?

 

[Shorerider]

There are many variables which will dictate what sort of pressures any given rider can get away with running. (hang on, I seem to recall saying this a fair few posts back)

You need to take into account:

Rider weight, which in my opinion is one of the most important factors

Riding style - Do you flow and look for smooth lines, or are you Mr.Plow and destroy parts on a regular basis

Rim/Tyre choice

Me, well I'm 68kg, I'd call myself a smooth rider, and I know what I can get away with using my rim/tyre choice - Mavic 823's & 2.7 Highrollers F&R

I run 25psi front, and 27psi rear. I could go 25psi rear, but run 27psi on rockier terrain (DH).

For all those concerned about burping tyres, you'll have more chance of noticing the extra weight of a fly on your helmet, than you would the minuscule amount of air lost due to burping - Get over it!!!



.........Shorerider.

 

[Pinner]

What sort of tyre pressures are people running for downhill? In the past I have been riding some tracks with pretty aggresive cornering and burped it here and their. Dont really want to be mucking around with pressueres to much, I definately hate my tryes firm, absolutely no traction I would rather roll slower. I was thinking around 28/30 front and 30/32 rear?

I run as low as 25 psi with tubeless, but I only weigh 55kg. i get a bit of burping, but i check the pressure during the day

 

[Shireboy]

Tubeless conversion

I am running Specalized fast track lk's on DT 420 rims using a Stan's kit, 2 scoops of sealant in each, the front tyre does not weep through the side wall whereas the rear does leak sealant through the sidewall. I am putting in around 10 psi over a week at the moment while it settles down, just had a spoke replaced. Prior to that I ras running a scoop of slime mixed with the stans, the slime slowed the oozing through the side wall some what better than straight stans sealant, whether the puncture sealing of the sealant was comprimised I don't know, I did find a ball of latex inside the tyre after dismounting.
I have just converted a DT Swiss 445 rim with a Specalized 'The Captain' tyre, I started out with a Cafe Latex kit, but the presta valves supplied will not seal the hole due to the shape of the rubber block moulded to the valve and the standard hole in the 445 rim, the rim tape is wider than what the Stans kit comes with, I went back to the shop where I purchased the kit but didn't get the help I expected, therefore I sourced new valves from Kirrawee cycles and was able to seal around the valve hole, then I had a leak at the rim join, dismounted the tyre and applied extra rim tape, refitted and sealed the tyre to the rim.
For the money the extra cost of the Stan's kit is worth it as the Caffe Latex kit in my case was a waste of money, $140.00 against $85.00 then spent $30.00 for the new valves plus driving to Gymea then to Kirrawee to sort the problem.

 

[thargs]

Just tried a Maxis crossmarks tube tire and the side walls are almost porous. You can feel the air bubbling through when you press against the sidewalls. The latex stopped it though.

Had a lot of trouble getting it to seat against the DT Swiss rims.

 

[ireland57]

There are many variables which will dictate what sort of pressures any given rider can get away with running. (hang on, I seem to recall saying this a fair few posts back)

You need to take into account:

Rider weight, which in my opinion is one of the most important factors

Riding style - Do you flow and look for smooth lines, or are you Mr.Plow and destroy parts on a regular basis

Rim/Tyre choice

Me, well I'm 68kg, I'd call myself a smooth rider, and I know what I can get away with using my rim/tyre choice - Mavic 823's & 2.7 Highrollers F&R

I run 25psi front, and 27psi rear. I could go 25psi rear, but run 27psi on rockier terrain (DH).

For all those concerned about burping tyres, you'll have more chance of noticing the extra weight of a fly on your helmet, than you would the minuscule amount of air lost due to burping - Get over it!!!



.........Shorerider.

I'm in the process of swapping a front wheel to ghetto to try it out.

I weigh 66 kgs + pack (4kgs) and ride a duallie with standard 2.1 Nevegals.
I run on mostly rocky ground pressures from F 21 - 24 psi and R 25 - 27 psi. I've had 3 pinch flats in last month.

I'm older than most and ride fairly slow compared to racers but pick my lines and ride smoothly also.

I realise this is "how long is a piece of string" question but am I able to run my 20-21 F and 24- R pressures with this tubeless setup?

I'll be using the standard Nevegals, Stan's as the goop and split tube.

Cheers

 

[T-Rex]

I'm in the process of swapping a front wheel to ghetto to try it out.

I weigh 66 kgs + pack (4kgs) and ride a duallie with standard 2.1 Nevegals.
I run on mostly rocky ground pressures from F 21 - 24 psi and R 25 - 27 psi. I've had 3 pinch flats in last month.

I'm older than most and ride fairly slow compared to racers but pick my lines and ride smoothly also.

I realise this is "how long is a piece of string" question but am I able to run my 20-21 F and 24- R pressures with this tubeless setup?

I'll be using the standard Nevegals, Stan's as the goop and split tube.

Cheers

I reckon the rear will be OK, the front might be a bit low depending on your rim. Different rim shapes and outside diameters give different levels of support to the bead. The risk is at that low a pressure you pull the tyre bead away from the rim with a side loading eg a corner, dropping off something, and produce a big enough burp to completely lose all your pressure. I did this on a XC ride a couple of months ago, went off a little step about half a metre and landed with the front a bit sideways, pulled the tyre off and it was game over, 20 minutes to clean up the mess and fit a tube. I suggest you start with a bit higher pressure in the front, then work your way down towards your target pressure. And carry a tube and a rag for if/when it all goes wrong!

 

[top_oz_bloke]

After using homemade Stan's-style (ie inside the rim) rim-strips for some months with no drama (I have already posted the method on this thread) thought I'd give "homemade Stan's yellow tape method" a go. This is the ultimate tubeless conversion imho; easiest and cheapest to do, easiest to fit tyres, and lightest weight. So, here goes..
1. Remove old rim tape.
2. Replace old rim tape with adhesive "filament" tape. I used 3M strapping tape (available at bunnings, etc for under $10) as it is the same one used by NoTubes, but another brand will do. For XC rims use 18-19mm width, for most wider rims go the 25mm option. Make sure it is tightly applied, and as smooth and even as you can get it.
3. Use a knife and round file to very carefully cut out a hole for the valve to go through.
4. Fit a tyre and tube, inflate for 24hrs at 50-60psi. This helps to fully seat the tape and make sure there are no air bubbles/gaps etc.
5. Deflate and remove tube.
6. Get an old tube and cut out the valve, leaving a piece of rubber attached about the size of a 5c piece. This is your tubeless valve (much cheaper than Mavic ones!)
7. Screw the valve in nice and tight to get a good seal on the rim tape. If you want you can get a small o-ring from the hardware store to put on the outside of the rim so you get a double seal and the valve lock-nut doesn't scratch your rim.
8. Fit tyre (adding your choice of sealant), inflate with a compressor (occaisionally a foot pump will work), do the sealant shake, and away you go!

I love the simplicity of this approach and am wondering what other experiences people have had simply by taping the rim and using a tubeless valve?

I'm keen to convert my second bike to tubeless (main bike is already running tubeless but it was dead easy because i'm running UST rims and tyres). FWIW the rims I want to convert are XM317's and run UST Ignitors.

The 317's are pin jointed and I assume they will leak at this join. Will this stuff it up for me?

And if this method works, what is the point of using rim strips?

I guess they reduce the load on the tape which might improve reliability. But I'd think you would be able to come up with a tape that's sufficiently strong enough. The cynic in me thinks it's a lot easier to sell two rim strips for $100 than a roll of tape though....

 

[GeorgeT]

I love the simplicity of this approach and am wondering what other experiences people have had simply by taping the rim and using a tubeless valve?

I'm keen to convert my second bike to tubeless (main bike is already running tubeless but it was dead easy because i'm running UST rims and tyres). FWIW the rims I want to convert are XM317's and run UST Ignitors.

The 317's are pin jointed and I assume they will leak at this join. Will this stuff it up for me?

And if this method works, what is the point of using rim strips?

I guess they reduce the load on the tape which might improve reliability. But I'd think you would be able to come up with a tape that's sufficiently strong enough. The cynic in me thinks it's a lot easier to sell two rim strips for $100 than a roll of tape though....

I have successfully done a tape-only conversion on XM317s and non-UST crossmarks. I used one wind of strapping type tape (3M brand), followed by several winds of standard electrical tape. The extra electrical tape was needed to "pack" out the rim and make a tighter fit for the bead. Valve was a from an old tube, cut down to a small stub and screwed down tightly. Sealant was a homemade latex-water mixture. Inflated by compressor with soapy water sprayed on.

I did drill the valve hole on the inside surface of the rim so that the presta valve stub would sit down flatter (3/8" drill bit). I also removed the metal "sleeve" from the valve hole which is just pressed in from the outside of the rim.

My setup has been fine without a rim strip. For some wheel/tyre combinations they may be essential but I haven't found it necessary at all.

George

 

[ireland57]

I just fitted a ghetto setup this afternoon and have some questions and comments.

Comments first:- The original setup weight with Nevegal DTC 2.1 tyre, Mavic XM117 rim, tube, liner was 1900 gms.
Tyre weight - 605 gms; tube wt - 200 gms; rim wt - 975 gms; Liner wt - 120 gms.

Weight of ghetto setup (total) is - 1800 gms. A saving of 100 gms.

It aired up easy with a compressor and soapy water.

The tyre has no pinhole leaks (at the moment) that I can see.

Where the shrader valve of the 20" bmx tube sits on the rim it interferes a little with the tyre bead. It was losing some air at this point (2 psi in 1 hour); i.e. down from 26 to 24 psi.

I pumped it back up to 38psi and swished the rim around a bit more to try to seal it up but it's lost 2 psi in about 10 mins.

If it seals how long will it be before I can ride it?

If it's going to seal should it have happened by now?

If it doesn't seal what 's the trick with the valve area?

 

[Tim Field]

Tubeless Electrical Rim Strip

Hey all
As a bit of a weight weenie I'm not inclined to get myself some rim strips for a pair of non tubeless rims I've got.
I was thinking of trying it with about 3 layers of carefully installed electrical tape before adding the sealant.
Has anyone tried this before? Am I wasting my time? All it needs to do is firstly create an air tight seal around the hole, and secondly have enough strength in the membrane spanning the hole to prevent the air pressure from pushing through the tape. With relatively low pressures, I'm hoping 3 layers will work. Although failure may mean spewing latex into the cavity of the rim which would annoy me somewhat.
If no one gives me a good reason why I shouldn't, I'll let you know how I go.

 

[emty]

I did exactly that on some TWE rims I had. Three layers, some stans & it has never failed me. Give it a go I'm sure it will work.

 

[tim_d]

Read the section on rim strips in this thread. Have you thought about using it with a 20" tube as well or instead?
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86107