TUBELESS TYRE MEGATHREAD - All questions asked and answered in here!!

wombat

wombat

Lives in a hole
poita said:
I like effetto caffelatex too.
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I used caffelatex for a bit, didn't think it was as good as Stan's to be honest; seemed to lose a lot more sealant spraying through small holes before it actually sealed the puncture. After leaving my bike unmoved for a few months (injury/surgery) it had totally dried out but on the upside it dried in one giant lump in the bottom of the tyre, and didn't seem to have seperated and left nasty oily liquid like Stan's can.
 
oriion

oriion

Likes Dirt
Been using Stans' since moving to tubeless 4 months ago.

Never had a flat, i'm a fat bastard and used to pinch flat every other ride on tubes.

If it works for me, it will for you ;)
 
C

cobramad

Squid
Been trawling thru the threads and am concerned that some of the UST sealants on the market MAY be contributing to tyre failure. Surely the manufacturers would have made sure that their product was safe to use and not cause these problems? Is there any truth to these issues and if so, are there particular sealants that seem safer than others?
Cheers..
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Block end Tubeless Valves

Why do I persist with these? Was just daft enough to buy another pair of these block end valves for a new tubeless conversion on a new tubeless ready wheelset.

And yet again...they don't fucking work. There appears to be no way to prevent air leaking around the block. I stripped the Stans conical seal valves out of another set and these sealed up perfectly. More fool me.

So has anyone made these damned things actually work? I ask because I have two pairs now and no idea how to avoid binning them!
 
pharmaboy

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
silentbutdeadly said:
Why do I persist with these? Was just daft enough to buy another pair of these block end valves for a new tubeless conversion on a new tubeless ready wheelset.

And yet again...they don't fucking work. There appears to be no way to prevent air leaking around the block. I stripped the Stans conical seal valves out of another set and these sealed up perfectly. More fool me.

So has anyone made these damned things actually work? I ask because I have two pairs now and no idea how to avoid binning them!
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Find someone with UST rims - that is what they are for.

On a similar note, people with UST rims will have endless trouble with the stans conical type valves . Stick both pairs in an envelope and I'll give you $20 . I'm sure sooner or later I can make use of them. ;)
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Aha! That makes sense...though why they are marketed simply as tubeless valves rather than UST tubeless valves is both a mystery and a source of frustration.

Give me a chance to dig them out and keep an eye out for the PM.
 
ChopSticks

ChopSticks

Banned
Silentbutdeadly,

can you clarify what your problem is?
is air/sealant leaking around the base of the tubeless valve into the rim cavity and out?

try using a small o-ring at the base of the square block, like this



i also use a hard plastic washer + valve stem nut and tighten it like no tomorrow!!



pharmaboy said:
Stick both pairs in an envelope and I'll give you $20 . I'm sure sooner or later I can make use of them. ;)
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check out my garage sale Graeme ;)
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?273310-Garage-Sale-updated-19-12-13
 
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S

shuxford

Cannon Fodder
ArtyFartyMarty said:
I recently bought a Giant Trance SX 27.5. Comes stock with the tubeless ready rim and the schwalbe tyres are also. Tubeless ready. Looking to go tubeless ASAP as with tubes I can't run the tyres at any less than 35 as I pinch them and they squirm on corners. Last pinch flat I checked the rim tape on those rims and it looks taped for tubeless already. Looks like all that's required is tubeless valve with removable core and some liquid latex. No additional taping or bands needed.but one more layer of thin tubeless rim tape for extra peace of mind won't hurt but definitely don't need the band.
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Hi,

Just got a 27.5 Anthem Adavnced and going to tubeless, what did you have to buy in the end. Wanted to get everything I need before I pick up the bike.

Cheers


Steve
 
acads

acads

Likes Dirt
Ive gone tubeless on 2 sets of giant 27.5 wheels . The 1st was the pxc2's on my anthem running the std RaRa's they come with , used just rim tape and stans with no major probs but they would loose around 5psi over a two week period . I run pressures around the 20-25psi mark but I would burp the tyre occasionally and they are now on my wifes bike so I added a little more stans and they are fine .

Second set are the pxcr1's but using the dtswiss rim strips and stans and they work really well , no burping and holding air fine and once again a new set of RaRa's . I can run these as low as 20psi with no burping and usually have front on that and the rear on 25psi , the dtswiss strips have a ridge on them which is supposed to reduce the chance of burping and support the tyre .
 
DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
tubeless setup

I've looked on here but can't find what I need. Im trying to set up tubeless. Supposedly my tyres and rims are good to go. I got the rear inflated without a compressor but it keeps leaking. I've put Stans in. Do you just keep inflating it to 40psi? The front is a prick. Can't even get it to inflate. I gather that a compressor is about the only way to go no?? Any other tricks? The rear looks to be leaking around the bead.
 
W

WillR

Likes Dirt
A compressor helps a lot with stubborn tyres. Mounting the tyres to the rims you want to use with a tube and leaving it for a day or two can help. A detergent solution will help the tyres seat on the rims.
If you can remove your valve core, you can get more air in quicker, bead the tyres, then replace the core. Once it's beaded, rotate the tyre and gently bounce or shake it to splash the sealant around the inside surfaces.
 
T

thewayweroll

Squid
If you cant get a compressor get a valve adaptor and go to a local servo and use their air ,soap and water around the rim help it seat, keep shaking the wheel and rotating it .Yes you may have to inflate it a couple of times .
 
teK--

teK--

Eats Squid
If you can get the rear to 40psi but it leaks around the bead have you shaken the wheel side to side all around the circumference then sat the wheel flat on a bucket for a few mins (repeat again but then set the wheel on the other side up) so the sealant seals the bead?

Other than a compressor you can also try the servo as mentioned, or I just use a CO2 canister.
 
DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
No chance of getting an adapter or access to a compressor. How long will Stans last with the tyre not inflated? Will I need to add more before attempting to inflate it tomorrow?
 
Ivan

Ivan

Eats Squid
I generally go to at least 50psi, then you'll hear the bead pop onto the seat, then deflate to 40psi and slosh the sealant around for a bit.

Some stubborn tyres can be really hard with a floor pump. I try to use my fingers to get the bead up onto the edge of the seat
 
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DMan

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
I've been trying for a while. I used a co2 bulb on the rear but it didn't work on the front. Needs fast pressure to overcome the amount leaking out. I'll take it to work tomorrow. Will the sealant be ok?
 
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