What compressor????

[ausdb]

What's the gun you're using?

 

[link1896]

Most painters recommend them. you don't want any oil in your paint. Is this not a thing? I literally have no idea here.

A bit of a google suggests the new generation of oiless seem to be much better in the medium size range.


Something like this. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-hush50-aluminium-silenced-50l-air-compressor


Price sure hurts but as flow rider points out, filters between the tank and the gun hurt flow, the best place for filters is between pump and tank but that’s messy in a self contained unit.

 

[Flow-Rider]

This is giving me hope. I dont mind paying a few hundred but fucked if I wanna fork out 1K on one. Cheers dude.

You could join two of the $100 compressors in unison if you were worried, lol! You can actually adjust the compressor cut in and cut out point on them also, it can give you an extra bit of oomph as long as you don't go too far away from the original settings and abuse the compressor, the tanks have a pre-set blow off valve anyway.

 

[Cardy George]

You could join two of the $100 compressors in unison if you were worried, lol! You can actually adjust the compressor cut in and cut out point on them also, it can give you an extra bit of oomph as long as you don't go too far away from the original settings and abuse the compressor, the tanks have a pre-set blow off valve anyway.

Noted for future reference!

 

[Dales Cannon]

A mate had 3 kmart compressors and I have my double entendre compressor. Aired down to 15 pissies from 40. He set all three going and I started one by one on ours. Finished my four and his 4th before his first compressor finished, the 2nd tripped on overheat at 30 pissies and the 3rd disappeared in a puff of smoke while I finished his 2nd.

 

[fatboyonabike]

You can actually adjust the compressor cut in and cut out point on them also, it can give you an extra bit of oomph as long as you don't go too far away from the original settings and abuse the compressor, the tanks have a pre-set blow off valve anyway.

Not great advice there!
Most compressors are set for a general cut out of 8bar...yes, you can push them out to above that, but you need to know what the PRV is set at, and for every amount above the design pressure, the motor has to work exponentially harder to climb up to the cutout, which will also increase the run time, the residual heat in both the compressor head and the motor and current draw through the thermal cutout relay causing tripping and extended wait time before it can cool down and be reset (unless you burn it out)
As these are usually fairly cheap items using fairly cheap parts, pushing them above what they are designed as or sold as will only result in failure

 

[link1896]

blow off valve isn't on the tank either, it's on the shitty, and I mean SHITTY controller. These are adjustable, which means they can be set wrong. I've had a tank fail, wasn't catastrophic but a rust hole (previous owner had clearly done the wrong thing). Buzz not being around a catastrophic tank rupture.

 

[Flow-Rider]

I am still thinking the airless spray guns, gotta remember even with a good air compressor and good quality gun that

Not great advice there!
Most compressors are set for a general cut out of 8bar...yes, you can push them out to above that, but you need to know what the PRV is set at, and for every amount above the design pressure, the motor has to work exponentially harder to climb up to the cutout, which will also increase the run time, the residual heat in both the compressor head and the motor and current draw through the thermal cutout relay causing tripping and extended wait time before it can cool down and be reset (unless you burn it out)
As these are usually fairly cheap items using fairly cheap parts, pushing them above what they are designed as or sold as will only result in failure

My should be screwed then and I'm in Qld heat, it's about 15 years old. Of course, you don't flog the crap out of it and let it run for 10min straight. Not everyone is a millionaire, sometimes you got to do with what you have.

 

[Flow-Rider]

blow off valve isn't on the tank either, it's on the shitty, and I mean SHITTY controller. These are adjustable, which means they can be set wrong. I've had a tank fail, wasn't catastrophic but a rust hole (previous owner had clearly done the wrong thing). Buzz not being around a catastrophic tank rupture.

That looks like something from the 1950's .

 

[fatboyonabike]

you wind the cutout pressure down and just listen how much happier the motor and compressor sound... pushing things to limit can be done, it just has consequences!

 

[EsPeGe]

What's the gun you're using?

So thats a good question. I was looking at an Iwata AZ3 HTE 2 Air Gunsa which by all accounts is a pretty good entry-mid level gun. Not super cheap, you can get em for like $50 but not $1k either. But I'm still researching and leaning towards a mini LVLP gun of some sort. That would solve all the compressor issues but for me it's about the finish and can I, a complete retard, get a good finish out of it. From my readings to this point HVLP guns are the notorious orange peelers in the wrong hands but I'm trying to work out if that applies to all guns. Apparently orange peel is not as big an issue with the older style guns.

 

[EsPeGe]

A bit of a google suggests the new generation of oiless seem to be much better in the medium size range.


Something like this. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-hush50-aluminium-silenced-50l-air-compressor


Price sure hurts but as flow rider points out, filters between the tank and the gun hurt flow, the best place for filters is between pump and tank but that’s messy in a self contained unit.

Yeah I looked at that one. Might buy it's little brother, particularly if I go with an LVLP gun.

 

[Cardy George]

Forgive me for being a Hambo, is that Low Volume Low Pressure vs High Volume Low Pressure?

 

[Dales Cannon]

Forgive me for being a Hambo, is that Low Volume Low Pressure vs High Volume Low Pressure?

Long ventricle high pressure...

 

[silentbutdeadly]

So.... I'm gonna get technical. The gun needs 7.59CFM (cubic feet per min, 232Litres/min in normal speak ) at 29PSI. Technically a compressor needs to meet that, most compressors, in fact pretty much all but the smallest get up to around 120PSI so no issue there. It's the volume that counts a lot of them out.

But from my understanding, and this is where I'm hoping someone can help, If I've got a big enough tank the volume doesn't matter, just the PSI. The compressor pressurizes the tank which then runs the gun. The compressor should only run to re-pressurize the tank when you have used enough air to drop the pressure below required. Now, if I was painting a car that would be an issue as I am spraying for longer durations and running the pressure down so the compressor would be running more and then volume becomes an issue. But because it's only a bike, you're done in under 5 minutes (per coat of course) then as long as the tank is big enough I should be good right? I might then be able to get away with a smaller compressor with a good size tank?

You are going to struggle to find a compressor that can do that FAD with less than a 15 amp motor. We've run a Peerless P14 for a decade and it's been a very happy ride. Yes it was $1,500 even way back then but it has done everything I have asked of it even if only occasionally. Tank was made in Bendigo, Italian pump and a Chinese motor. Only thing I've replaced on it was the pressure switch.

It might be worth giving them a call and see what they could suggest for your needs (if not your budget!).

 

[EsPeGe]

Forgive me for being a Hambo, is that Low Volume Low Pressure vs High Volume Low Pressure?

Correct.

 

[EsPeGe]

You are going to struggle to find a compressor that can do that FAD with less than a 15 amp motor. We've run a Peerless P14 for a decade and it's been a very happy ride. Yes it was $1,500 even way back then but it has done everything I have asked of it even if only occasionally. Tank was made in Bendigo, Italian pump and a Chinese motor. Only thing I've replaced on it was the pressure switch.

It might be worth giving them a call and see what they could suggest for your needs (if not your budget!).

Thanks man, good info. I'll check em out. I assume they'll have smaller models.

 

[discofrank]

theres the rub and another issue. all of the compressors that will easily run the gun need 15amp. Easy enough to get a sparky drop one in but yet another fucking cost.

I will not be telling anyone to run 15A appliances off a 10A circuit.

re oil in the air , you can buy water/oil separators /filters to stop this
i would be more conserned with water than oil, so a water trap is needed, NOT at the compressor as the air can still be warm with water vapor, run a 5 to 10 mtr hose then the water trap then to you spray gun ,

 

[cokeonspecialtwodollars]

I won't be advising running 15A equipment on 10A circuits.

Just to be the wet blanket... don't do this. Firstly most circuit breakers on power point circuits will be 20-25A anyway so "throwing" in a 15A breaker isn't helping, the breaker is only there to protect the wiring in the walls, it doesn't give two shits about the load you plug in to the outlet. Secondly you'll notice that the positive and neutral pins on a 15A plug/socket are the same as a 10A plug/socket and it's only the earth pin that is different, the reason behind this is because the fault currents are potentially greater with the increased load so we need the earth to "not melt" before the protection has a chance to do it's job. In reality 999 times out of 1000 you'll get away with it but fucked if I'd want to be there to clean up after the 1 in 1000.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Just to be the wet blanket... don't do this. Firstly most circuit breakers on power point circuits will be 20-25A anyway so "throwing" in a 15A breaker isn't helping, the breaker is only there to protect the wiring in the walls, it doesn't give two shits about the load you plug in to the outlet. Secondly you'll notice that the positive and neutral pins on a 15A plug/socket are the same as a 10A plug/socket and it's only the earth pin that is different, the reason behind this is because the fault currents are potentially greater with the increased load so we need the earth to "not melt" before the protection has a chance to do it's job. In reality 999 times out of 1000 you'll get away with it but fucked if I'd want to be there to clean up after the 1 in 1000.

Can vouch for this as the shed has both 10 amp and 15 amp circuits. I worked with our sparky to put them in there. All of the breakers are of the same style and load rating regardless of amp rating but the cabling is different and the key difference was the construction of the earth cable...

A new 15 amp circuit is just a length of the correct cable,the right power point and a new breaker. Which should be cheaper than even one of those fancy 15/10 amp converter things.