VIC WTB: Sram XX1/X01/GX Eagle derailleur

Nautonier

Eats Squid
Item: Sram XX1/X01/GX Eagle derailleur
Location: Melbs
Price range/Willing to Pay: up to $200
Extra Info: need asap
 

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Liked to be proved wrong, but why would anyone have one of these as a spare just lying around, and if they did, sell it for less than retail.
 

Nautonier

Eats Squid
Liked to be proved wrong, but why would anyone have one of these as a spare just lying around, and if they did, sell it for less than retail.
I can get a new one for $150, but it would take a while to be shipped from Taiwan. The group set I have currently was purchased from one of the many people who buy a new bike with Eagle and strip it immediately to run Shitmano.
 

Nautonier

Eats Squid
Shitmano sit out of the way more....not striking things as much.
A flog and their money are soon parted.
That's a bit of a reach (the protruding more bit), anyways it was a stick getting caught up, not anything to do with a strike. Could have happened to anyone running anything. In the 6+ years I've been running Sram this is the first time I've bent a mech. Good to see you've taken on the vernacular for Shimano.

Nice attempt at creative name calling using your trusty urban dictionary. Do you keep it open in a tab for constant reference? Keep on digging with your pail of tin.

Anger trumps passive aggression. In the famous words of Tina Turner: what's love got to do with it?
 

moorey

call me Mia
She also said:

As I grew up, I learned what worked for me. That's where the short dresses came from. And you can't dance in a long dress.

Think about it.
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Item: Sram XX1/X01/GX Eagle derailleur
Location: Melbs
Price range/Willing to Pay: up to $200
Extra Info: need asap
Mate needs a replacement mounting bolt for his brand new GX rear derailleur. SRAM reckons it needs 10-12 Nm and well that didn't work. Got a spare?
 

Nautonier

Eats Squid
Mate needs a replacement mounting bolt for his brand new GX rear derailleur. SRAM reckons it needs 10-12 Nm and well that didn't work. Got a spare?
I'd never go to 10 - 12Nm on those things. I most likely will have a spare unless, in some exceptionally fortunate circumstances, I can bend the damn thing back to exactly where it was. I'll post the results when I've had a crack at it.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
I'd never go to 10 - 12Nm on those things. I most likely will have a spare unless, in some exceptionally fortunate circumstances, I can bend the damn thing back to exactly where it was. I'll post the results when I've had a crack at it.
I’d try bolting the mech to a piece of wood and clamping it to a bench. Then you can yank on it without worrying about bending the hanger. Not sure if there is a proper way to do it but that’s how I’d go about it.
Nothing to lose.
 

Nautonier

Eats Squid
I spent a lot of time attempting to straighten the mech and really wish that I'd left it on the bike beforehand, with the cable tension exactly where it should be. Attempting to adjust cable tension while correcting for the bend in mech was a nightmare. I quickly found that I could get the shifting perfect on either the upper or lower range, but not both. 12 speed is finicky to begin with, add in a mech that is being bent every which way and it's impossible to get right.

It's just guessing really, there's no way to line it up against anything that gives a proper indication of where it should sit while fully extended or tucked in. The jockey wheels probably should line up parallel to the wheel when tucked in on the 10t (looking from above) and parallel to the 50t cog when extended on the 50t (from behind).

I think I was bending the cage as well as the mech... Probably the hanger as well. I'm going to replace all of it anyway, but I was kinda hoping I could get it close enough to use all of the gears. At the moment I can get all but the lowest 3 gears really smooth, but whatever I do can't get those final 3. It will work on the 50t, but skips between the next 2 down.
 

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
What does it look like in the middle of the cluster? Aim for it being straight here, and it *should* then bend like it's supposed to in the 10 and 50. Also, you really really need the B screw gauge check, and do it with the bike sagged.
 
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