SRAM Guide RS Brakes - Lever slow to return

[Boom King]

A certain red and white branded store on Kings Way in South Melbourne...

Why doesn't that surprise me?

 

[fridgie]

Mine went in today, will see what happens seeing as bought from crc. Shop said they 'should' be able to sort it and asked for copy of the receipt. Fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk

 

[sundy]

I sent mine back to Pushys last week, and they have just confirmed they are sending a replacement RSC today.

 

[fridgie]

Mine went in today, will see what happens seeing as bought from crc. Shop said they 'should' be able to sort it and asked for copy of the receipt. Fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk

Seems shop dude was being nice, got the ggf from the mechanic about warranty, need to send back to crc as they are definitely stuffed.

Looks like the original formula c1's will be put into use again in the meantime

 

[downunderdallas]

Got my bike back, I'm not sure they did anything. My levers are dirty, i.e not new, are SRAM refurbishing levers? Surely they would at least clean the levers? They aren't sending a kit to the shop are they?

The rear lever is still slow to return. The front lever wasn't that bad.

 

[Nautonier]

Got my bike back, I'm not sure they did anything. My levers are dirty, i.e not new, are SRAM refurbishing levers? Surely they would at least clean the levers? They aren't sending a kit to the shop are they?

The rear lever is still slow to return. The front lever wasn't that bad.

Their general policy is replacing the entire lever, not just the piston assembly. If the lever is still sticking they haven't done anything. Now that's shoddy service.

Went in to pick up my bike with the new RSC levers today as I'd had a call saying they were ready. Turns out they hadn't arrived and that Sram had sent back my old RSCs. As I was about to leave (for the second time) with Rs on the bike so I could ride it this weekend, their post arrived and sure enough there were the RSC levers. I was in a hurry as I had to get to work, so they quickly whacked on the levers as I said I would do the bleed myself. On the plus side they gave me some top tips on Srams new in-house bleeding technique and tonight I did the best bleed I've ever done on Sram brakes. I'd have to say the new technique is excellent - even easier than Shimano!

 

[downunderdallas]

They did say "the levers" had come in on Wednesday and they would put them on Thursday/Friday. I called today and after umming and ahhing they said it was ready so I got there just before the shop closed, squeezed the lever (in A/C shop) seemed fine, thanks bye, got home after 30 degree (20 min each way) drive and squeezed again. ahhh bugger. Had a closer look, same levers still dirty (rear one also has a small scratch due to my limited skills at staying upright). Not happy Jan.

 

[Nambra]

Their general policy is replacing the entire lever, not just the piston assembly. If the lever is still sticking they haven't done anything. Now that's shoddy service.

Went in to pick up my bike with the new RSC levers today as I'd had a call saying they were ready. Turns out they hadn't arrived and that Sram had sent back my old RSCs. As I was about to leave (for the second time) with Rs on the bike so I could ride it this weekend, their post arrived and sure enough there were the RSC levers. I was in a hurry as I had to get to work, so they quickly whacked on the levers as I said I would do the bleed myself. On the plus side they gave me some top tips on Srams new in-house bleeding technique and tonight I did the best bleed I've ever done on Sram brakes. I'd have to say the new technique is excellent - even easier than Shimano!

Are you allowed to share this bleed technique, or will you have to kill us if you tell?

 

[downunderdallas]

Got my bike back, I'm not sure they did anything. My levers are dirty, i.e not new, are SRAM refurbishing levers? Surely they would at least clean the levers? They aren't sending a kit to the shop are they?

The rear lever is still slow to return. The front lever wasn't that bad.

Called bike shop this morning, much cursing (by them at absent mechanic) told to bring bike in they will do by lunch. New levers were located still in wrapping but my bike had enjoyed a nice holiday hanging out with all the other bikes at the shop for a week! Hopefully back riding tomorrow!

 

[Nautonier]

Are you allowed to share this bleed technique, or will you have to kill us if you tell?

Sram's customers can't know the technique, otherwise bike shops would lose billions of dollars on bleeds. But I'm going to ruin it for them.

Bear in mind that this technique assumes that you have fluid in the callipers. If you have an empty system, you will first need to plunge fluid through the system from the calliper end.

So it's really simple:

1. Put bike in bike stand and remove pads. Wind levers all the way out and with RSCs CPA all the way 'in'. Retract pistons to flush with calliper housing using a pair of pliers (or some more appropriate and exact tool) and insert a bleed block.

2. Half fill a syringe with the relevant dot fluid making sure there are minimal bubbles.

3. Open bleed port, attach syringe, and firmly push down the plunger. When you do this you will see lots of bubbles rushing up into the syringe.

4. Pull plunger out as far as it will go, sucking even more air out of the system.

5. Let go plunger and remove syringe.

6. Push all air out of syringe, fill to about 1/3 and repeat steps 1 - 5 two more times.

7. On the last repeat, push down a bit on the plunger before removing from bleed port. You should see fluid overflowing out of the bleed port. Quickly screw the bleed port screw back in.

8. Wipe off all excess fluid (obviously, usually I wrap a rag around the lever to minimise spillage) and reinstall pads, wheel and take bike off stand.

9. Pump the levers a few times and they will firm up to rock solid.

10. Crack open a Pirate Life PA or IPA, spend lots of time looking lovingly at your pride and joy and congratulate yourself on having a 'shop bleed' without having wasted $80 of beer money...


#disclaimer: this helpful instruction tutorial was sponsored by Pirate Life.



## rode the bike on 11 repeats of a DH run today and the brakes were flawless.

 

[waldog]

Sram's customers can't know the technique, otherwise bike shops would lose billions of dollars on bleeds. But I'm going to ruin it for them.

Bear in mind that this technique assumes that you have fluid in the callipers. If you have an empty system, you will first need to plunge fluid through the system from the calliper end.

So it's really simple:

1. Put bike in bike stand and remove pads. Wind levers all the way out and with RSCs CPA all the way 'in'. Retract pistons to flush with calliper housing using a pair of pliers (or some more appropriate and exact tool) and insert a bleed block.

2. Half fill a syringe with the relevant dot fluid making sure there are minimal bubbles.

3. Open bleed port, attach syringe, and firmly push down the plunger. When you do this you will see lots of bubbles rushing up into the syringe.

4. Pull plunger out as far as it will go, sucking even more air out of the system.

5. Let go plunger and remove syringe.

6. Push all air out of syringe, fill to about 1/3 and repeat steps 1 - 5 two more times.

7. On the last repeat, push down a bit on the plunger before removing from bleed port. You should see fluid overflowing out of the bleed port. Quickly screw the bleed port screw back in.

8. Wipe off all excess fluid (obviously, usually I wrap a rag around the lever to minimise spillage) and reinstall pads, wheel and take bike off stand.

9. Pump the levers a few times and they will firm up to rock solid.

10. Crack open a Pirate Life PA or IPA, spend lots of time looking lovingly at your pride and joy and congratulate yourself on having a 'shop bleed' without having wasted $80 of beer money...


#disclaimer: this helpful instruction tutorial was sponsored by Pirate Life.



## rode the bike on 11 repeats of a DH run today and the brakes were flawless.

This trick has been around for years, but not often discussed. I've often heard it referred to as a "Whistler bleed".

For the kids playing at home, don't do it with Shimano brakes, it won't end will. You're in the wrong thread anyway, if your looking for Shimmy tips....

 

[Nambra]

Thanks Nauty, assuming in step 3 that you're talking about the bleed port on the lever, not the caliper?

I would have gone for a Karl Strauss or Endeavour golden myself, but each to their own...

Edit: Just thinking on that technique, how does it actually refresh the fluid in the brake system, like the published SRAM method does?

 

[link1896]

Sram's customers can't know the technique, otherwise bike shops would lose billions of dollars on bleeds. But I'm going to ruin it for them.

Bear in mind that this technique assumes that you have fluid in the callipers. If you have an empty system, you will first need to plunge fluid through the system from the calliper end.

So it's really simple:

1. Put bike in bike stand and remove pads. Wind levers all the way out and with RSCs CPA all the way 'in'. Retract pistons to flush with calliper housing using a pair of pliers (or some more appropriate and exact tool) and insert a bleed block.

2. Half fill a syringe with the relevant dot fluid making sure there are minimal bubbles.

3. Open bleed port, attach syringe, and firmly push down the plunger. When you do this you will see lots of bubbles rushing up into the syringe.

4. Pull plunger out as far as it will go, sucking even more air out of the system.

5. Let go plunger and remove syringe.

6. Push all air out of syringe, fill to about 1/3 and repeat steps 1 - 5 two more times.

7. On the last repeat, push down a bit on the plunger before removing from bleed port. You should see fluid overflowing out of the bleed port. Quickly screw the bleed port screw back in.

8. Wipe off all excess fluid (obviously, usually I wrap a rag around the lever to minimise spillage) and reinstall pads, wheel and take bike off stand.

9. Pump the levers a few times and they will firm up to rock solid.

10. Crack open a Pirate Life PA or IPA, spend lots of time looking lovingly at your pride and joy and congratulate yourself on having a 'shop bleed' without having wasted $80 of beer money...


#disclaimer: this helpful instruction tutorial was sponsored by Pirate Life.



## rode the bike on 11 repeats of a DH run today and the brakes were flawless.

Assuming step three is the bleed port on the lever, there Is nothing special about this procedure, it strikes me as a sloppy way for a shop to churn out as many warranty replaced levers as possible without doing a proper bleed where all fluid is replaced and removing any air bubbles at the calliper end.

Vacuum bleeding is far far superior. Compressed air pushes new fluid through the system from the calliper end, once all large air bubbles are eliminated, pulling a vacuum does a spectacular job.

I'm left wondering if the SRAM factory is even vacuum bleeding. Mates with brand new Giants, the factory bleed on the front Guide brake is rubbish. I get the rear might have been done at the giant factory after internal line routing, but the front should be as delivered from SRAM. Even then, Giant would have the volume to be wanting/needing vacuum bleeding. Pity the poor sods on a production line using syringes.

 

[Haakon]

I had RS, was replaced with RS. I also just got the levers, and the bleed was pretty simply. This was through Bicycle Superstore in Nunawading where I bought my Anthem Adv SX, and I had to post them my old levers and they just sent me the new ones - easy peasy.

$80 for a bleed...? I'm in the wrong business!

I'm certainly in love with them again after a lap of the Mont24 course today. I'm running a semi metallic on the front and the OE organic on the rear and that works for me. Big Wednesday and Kowalskis Beer Garden in particular are lovely descents that rewards nicely modulated corner entry braking. Nice way to kill an hour or two

 

[Nautonier]

Thanks Nauty, assuming in step 3 that you're talking about the bleed port on the lever, not the caliper?

I would have gone for a Karl Strauss or Endeavour golden myself, but each to their own...

Edit: Just thinking on that technique, how does it actually refresh the fluid in the brake system, like the published SRAM method does?

Yep, the lever.

It doesn't refresh all of the fluid in the system, which means when you're paying $80 for this type of bleed it's a complete rip-off.

 

[Nautonier]

Assuming step three is the bleed port on the lever, there Is nothing special about this procedure, it strikes me as a sloppy way for a shop to churn out as many warranty replaced levers as possible without doing a proper bleed where all fluid is replaced and removing any air bubbles at the calliper end.

Vacuum bleeding is far far superior. Compressed air pushes new fluid through the system from the calliper end, once all large air bubbles are eliminated, pulling a vacuum does a spectacular job.

I'm left wondering if the SRAM factory is even vacuum bleeding. Mates with brand new Giants, the factory bleed on the front Guide brake is rubbish. I get the rear might have been done at the giant factory after internal line routing, but the front should be as delivered from SRAM. Even then, Giant would have the volume to be wanting/needing vacuum bleeding. Pity the poor sods on a production line using syringes.

I agree that this procedure is sloppy for a bike shop - especially when charging $80! I've had those brakes for quite a while now and to think that my $80 didn't even pay for a fluid refresh is definitely disappointing. For $80 it would be nice to see some silicone spray on the pistons to free them up as well.

I like this technique as a really quick and solid bleed to do at home when changing levers or shorting hoses, but for a bike shop bleed it is a bit shoddy.

 

[99_FGT]

Heard the other day that if one fails, and the serial numbers are similar, then SRAM will replace both straight up

 

[schred]

For $80 it would be nice to see some silicone spray on the pistons to free them up as well. .

To each their own but my understanding is despite all the possible lubes out there, brake fluid is the only 'lube' that should be on pistons, and toothbrush and soapy water for cleaning.

 

[Nambra]

Heard the other day that if one fails, and the serial numbers are similar, then SRAM will replace both straight up

Exactly what happened with me - LBS took pictures of serial numbers (etched on calipers - they can be hard to find) and gave them to SRAM, 2-3 weeks later, new levers sent and fitted by LBS. I suspect that SRAM might be refurbishing all the levers that come back and exchanging them out as faulty ones come in, hence the variable turnaround delays. I could be wrong, but it would explain why my original levers were R's and the ones I got back were RSC's, and the opposite is happening to others.

 

[JonnyT]

I'm in the same boat Nautonier. Picked up my bike today (from the same LBS) only to find my RS brakes had been replaced with R's. They said they would check with SRAM tomorrow but I'm pretty pissed that they didn't give me a heads up beforehand. I'll let you know if I get anywhere.

Finally got my new RS levers installed on the weekend. LBS said they are churning through 4 replacements per week at the moment.