Product Review Huck Norris anti flat tubeless protection

Welcome to the next exciting review on products provided to us by our friends at Mountain Bikes Direct. We've teamed up with one of Australia's best online mountain bike stores to bring you in depth reviews on the latest and most intriguing parts and accessories you can purchase for your bike.

The values shared by the staff at Rotorburn and Mountain Bikes Direct are the same; we have a huge passion for mountain biking! It's our pleasure to be in a great position to test, review and share our in depth details on some great products available from Mountain Bikes Direct.

342242

Item: Huck Norris anti flat tubeless protection for mountain bike wheelsets
Purchased From: Mountain Bikes Direct (Click here for the product page)
Purchase Price (approx): Starting at $46.95 for one wheel, a two wheel set is $85.95 plus postage
Usage: Mountain biking

Product outline: Huck Norris anti flat tubeless protection is intended to provide additional protection to your tubeless wheels and tyres to prevent pinch flats and does it in such an easy method by providing a foam insert that creates a pillow of sorts between your rim edge and tyre when your tyre sidewall is compressed.

Pros: Very light, very easy to install, very effective at preventing flats, makes it easier to inflate a tubeless tyre with a floor pump, buying the two wheel pair comes with packaging that doubles as a mudguard!
Cons: Absorbs tyre sealant.

Fitting: First up, ensure you order the correct width Huck Norris to suit your rims and tyres. I've installed Huck Norris on a 27.5" wheelset with a Stans Flow EX rim that is 30mm wide internally. The guideline for ordering Huck Norris is to get the one that is wider than your rim measurement so in this case I ordered the large size to suit rims 34mm to 45mm. I ordered the set too, it comes with two pieces of Huck Norris to do a front and rear wheel. It's important to note that you need to trim the length to size and it comes to suit anything up to a 29" wheel so no need to look for something that suits a smaller or larger wheel.
Fitting was totally a breeze. My method was simple. I unpackagaed the Huck Norris, let them sit on the ground to unfold and sucked the existing sealant out of my wheels using the Stans syringe. I then popped the tyre off the bead on one side, gave it a quick wipe inside with a clean towel and grabbed my first piece of Huck Norris. The idea of it is to sit between your beaded tyre where it meets the rim face and the underside (inside) of the tyre tread so when you roll over something sharp edged (a rock) or land hard (huck to flat) your tyre will not be damaged by the rim edge because there's a fancy piece of Huck Norris between the two surfaces.
With that in mind, you simply roll the Huck Norris around the outside edge of your rim and locate the first spot that will indicate where to cut the material. Hold up folks! The old saying of "measure twice, cut once" comes out in force here, make sure you leave enough play in the Huck Norris that it isn't too tight on the rim edge! Once you're sure that you're on the right spot, you mark the line you want to cut off with a sharp blade then double check it. You need to make sure you keep one of the joining tabs that run across the pattern of the material as this surface will butt up again the other end of the Huck Norris.
Now, cut it cleanly so the short side edge will sit flush against the opposing end, just to be sure it will sit snug. You then roll the other end so it is against the piece you just cut and you wrap the provided velcro strap around the two ends. I suggest using some clamps here, I have clamped the two ends together then put the velcro on to ensure it sits firmly, OCD maybe? ;)
This is the point where you can sit the Huck Norris inside your tyre and above your rim edge. You'll see just how well this setup works at this point and you'll understand why the correct measurement is crucial. It should just slide straight inside your tyre and not drop inside your rim edge and lean over the rim edge below the seated tyre surface on the other side.
Right then, this is where you can insert your tyre bead into the rim and seat your tyre. Pay some attention to where the Huck Norris thick edge sits as you seat the tyre as it seems like it can roll to one side and not be in the exact middle of the width of the tyre. You'll notice it should be pushing your tyre sidewall out and making it easier for your tyre to seat. Once the tyre was on, I rolled the wheel along the ground with a deflated tyre and made sure I could feel the Huck Norris between the underside of the tread and the rim edge, that way I knew it was in the right spot and it was actually super easy to line it all up. You'll get the best feel and impression for what Huck Norris is all about at this point too, you'll feel that magic cushion between your tyre and rim edge and your confidence should grow!
The next step is to put your sealant in. I use the Stans syringe that feeds the sealant in through the removed valve core but you can just put your scoops in before you bead your tyre if you don't do the core method. My advice though? Get a valve core removal tool, grab a sealant syringe and never spill another drop of sealant on Nan's rug again. ;) I tend to put around 120ml of sealant in but this time around I put about 160ml as the Huck Norris suggests it soaks it up a little as it has more surface to cover, makes sense.
Now is the point where you can test the theory that Huck Norris makes it easier to inflat a tubeless tyre with a floor pump. Science says it should too, the material pushes your tyre bead into the rim and should just seat itself............and it does! It was a breeze to inflate from zero pressure to 40 PSI and the bead seated itself at about 20PSI. To my liking was the fact that it was a brand new tyre too. ;)

On the trail: My timing with Huck Norris was planned. I installed it a week before I was due to fly out to sunny Queenstown in New Zealand and shred the beautiful loam, the round edged roots and the square edged rocks of the surrounding mountains. I've spent many a summer in New Zealand and have never come home without flatting tyres on trail bikes, enduro bikes and downhill bikes both tubeless and tubed. I was so confident in the science of Huck Norris that I knew I could rely on it to prevent flats. Did it work? Yep! Not one flat, only typical PSI deflation of around 3 to 5 PSI a day, no burping, no loss of sealant and no holes. Did I actually man up and try to pop a tyre on a flat landing? Did I line up every root or hard edged rock and totally smash into it? Well, yeah I did but those that have ridden the hills around Queenstown know that you can't avoid them anyway and your only option is to smash into it all!
You know that dreaded ping sound when you hammer into a hard rock? I have forgotten that sound since putting Huck Norris in my tyres, not a sound! Surprisingly though, the anti flat protection isn't the only upside I found to Huck Norris. read on.............
Huck Norris has totally changed my tyre feel. It has eliminated a shitload of sidewall roll and firmed the tyre tread surface up so my grip is more predictable than ever. Having that tubeless feel with a horizontal stiffener inside the tyre has made my ride feel really stable both in cornering and braking. I don't tend to run lower pressures purely as I like some extra feel in my tyre but Huck Norris has allowed me to tinker a little with what I'm used to and broadened my view on what can be achieved with performance on your bike through some squishy bits.
I did not notice any extra rotational weight, I didn't feel heavier on some of the 1000m vertical climbs and by the second day I was totally confident that I could go that little bit harder into some features knowing this material would hold the wind in my tyres.

Summary: Is it just a gimmick like a Power Balance Band? Did some Astrology guru dream it up and is making millions from it? I dunno about the latter but can assure you that if you have ever had a tubeless flat then Huch Norris is a deadset savior to your existence. It's cheap, it's so effective, it's so easy to install, it's simple technology that just works. You can ask yourself "Yeah righto, you didn't get a flat so how do you know it works?"..................I have gotten heaps of flats but with Huck Norris I have had not one issue with anything relating to tyres. It works for me and I'll be putting it in each wheelset I have on my rides. Honestly, I cannot see a downside to it.

342242 342243 342244 342245 342246 342247 342248 342249 342250
 
Last edited:

Comments

I have a DH Huck Norris in my back wheel and hard a pretty hard hit on a rock at Mt Buller (Abom) on Sat.
I stopped and checked it out as I thought the damage would be pretty severe, but could not see anything and the tyre was still holding air, so continued riding.
After washing the bike I found a small ding. Noting serious and wheel is still true and spoke tension even. No idea how bad this might have been without the HN, but it might have saved the rim and tyre from catastrophic failure, might have.
 
How'd the ride go?
.
Pretty damn good tbh. 10 run day at Thredbo. 5 on the Flow, 2 on the AM and 3 on Cannonball

Dropped 5psi F&R (21psi on Topeak digital gauge, 25 on Park track pump) Noticeable grip difference along with a very different feel. Didn’t strike a rim once or even feel like I came close despite pushing it over some of the harder edges on the top of flow/am and cannonball to test it

I think there is something interesting going on with the volume reduction causing the tyre pressure to ramp up quicker, kinda like putting a token in forks. Allows soft pressure for small bump compliance (grip) but the harsher ramp up prevents bottoming out and bruising a rim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How'd the ride go?

I made up two wheels using 13x19 thickness (26 inch wheels, 25mm ID, F - Magic Mary 2.35 , R - DHR2 2.3) and just from looking at it sit inside the tyre ... I can't imagine there being much room for sealant to spread easily in between the K-Flex and tyre.
Though I don't have the K-Flex wrapped tight against the rim, its a tiny bit loose.

May have to go to the smallest size (start sensible hah) and see how that goes. By the looks of it, that'll perfectly sit on the rim with a little bit extra over the edges.
With the cushcore and Huck Norris there are transfer ports through the material to allow sealant to circulate. Maybe you can cut slots into your material?
 
With the cushcore and Huck Norris there are transfer ports through the material to allow sealant to circulate. Maybe you can cut slots into your material?
The outer layer of it stops moisture absorption and the foam inside looks like it'd soak up quite a bit of sealant.

Smaller size and snug against the rim should give more open space for the sealant to flow during rotation.

I could be just overthinking it all and my current setup will work like magic ... though I have a Maydena trip coming up so will probably hold off.
 
Has anyone tried foam backer rod?
I'm told Clark Rubber sell it in various widths by the metre...might try to get some this weekend and give it a try.
This guy's got it working..
http://nhachay.top/save-your-rims-diy-mtb-flat-protection_HbCfRoxOBarw.html

..probably worthy of it's own thread rather than sidetracking this product review



Haven’t got a picture of the valve before hacking into it

Pipe is K-Flex 13mm x 19mm and comes in 1m lengths. I needed pieces per wheel stuck together with super glue



This is the piece I needed to chop off for it to be the right size on my 650b wheels. I measured it against an old wheel I had spare in the garage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
..probably worthy of it's own thread rather than sidetracking this product review
Thanks to this product review, I'll be checking out those K̶-̶F̶l̶e̶x̶ ̶t̶u̶b̶e̶s̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶B̶u̶n̶n̶i̶n̶g̶s̶. Cheers,

EDIT: 50mm foam backing rods at ClarkRubber lol
 
Last edited:
20180206_145058.jpg
2018-02-06 15.10.03.jpg


So a quick trip to clark rubber later:
50mm foam backing rod.

They also had the kflex pipe insulating foam, this is a bit tougher. It's closed cell and solid, so i cut a piece in half and voila, fits the rim perfectly. This is on a stans flow (original) so 23mm id. I expect it would be fine on a wider rim.

I had reservations about the kflex tube - i think a big rock strike would snake bite it, then it will start collecting all your sealant inside the tube. Might be wrong though.

Next I'm going to glue and zip-tie the ends so it's nice and snug on the rim. For $10 per wheel I'm impressed so far - will post back after I've had a proper ride on it.
 
Last edited:
An update on my Huck Norris. I recently swapped out my rear HN for the new HN DH (Downhill) as I noticed the one I had installed months ago was looking fairly cut up. I was at Mt Buller over the weekend and on 2 consecutive runs I punctured my rear tyre. On the first I used a Dynaplug and pumped it up trail side, but due to my impatience I probably only put in 17-20psi before completing my run down Acopperbom (Abom into Copperhead). When at the bottom i noticed a sizeable ding in the rim which was leaking a bit of sealant at the bead. I cranked the pressure back up and did another run down Abom and on this run I lost half a knob (POS Nobby Nic Addix Speedgrip), which resulted in another loss of pressure. I tubed it up trailside this time and made it down without issue.
Inspecting the damage at the end of the day I had 2 sizeable dings in the rear, one of which needed straightening to hold tubeless, and 2 more minor rim dings. Luckily the Spank Oozy rims are fairly bombproof so are still fairly true with relatively even spoke tension, my Flow MK3 would not have faired so well at all, but that is another story.
I have not idea how munted my rims would have been without the Huck Norris, but I personally will not be buying them again. I will either just get used to running higher pressures and maybe run DD casings, or I might give Cushcore a go.
They are certainly unable to perform miracles.
 
DD or SG casing with K-Flex insulation might be your next bang for buck experiment.
I've got two K-Flex inserts ready to go. Was a bit overzealous and went too thick if you want to give them a try. Depends on rim width and wheel size also. Which Oozys are you running?

Skills With Phil did a good video on cushcore recently.
 
Am running the Oozy Trail 345s. I am thinking that maybe just adding a few PSI and losing a couple of kilos off the waistline might be the next experiment, seeing as it is free. Haha.
 
I did a rim with the k flex on the cannonball trail thredbo racing on exo casing so can't expect miracles i suppose.
Friend did a rim with cushcore Dd casing. Our rims aren't dead just not tubeless anymore. We both go a quick pace. Chewed through both the inserts
Pulled my insert out and it weighed 88 v the 80 grams it was. Been in two months.
 
Ran down Hero today at Bright and heard a strike on the rear. I'd pumped the tire up a touch as the top is a little rocky. Anyway, I checked the rim and despite hearing it there was not a single mark on the rim. Just lucky but I'm sure it would likely have damaged the rim without it. Another score for Kflex on this occasion. :^)
 
Ran down Hero today at Bright and heard a strike on the rear. I'd pumped the tire up a touch as the top is a little rocky. Anyway, I checked the rim and despite hearing it there was not a single mark on the rim. Just lucky but I'm sure it would likely have damaged the rim without it. Another score for Kflex on this occasion. :^)
What width kflex and width of rim?
 
Well, sort of, no.
wheel1.jpg


I bought a new SG casing Rock Razor to go on the rear because I was sick of the rear squirming so much under low pressures. So unfortunately it's not really going to be a fair comparison to the snakeskin I was using before. But anyway..

I discovered that:
-zip ties work well to join it together, but superglue may suffice. I used both.
- 50mm diameter is too big/wide for a 2.35 tyre on a 23mm rim (see pic). It took up over half of the air volume. I had to trim a bit off the top in the end. Next time I'll get 40mm diameter (but the store were out of it when I was there - might have to order it in).
-The foam is nice and easy to trim with a stanley knife.
- SG casing are an absolute B!t$H to get on! The foam strip didn't really get in the way cos I didn't have it on that tight. Next time I might make it tighter as I noticed cushcore looked pretty tight around the rim. (does it trap sealant underneath it though?)
-The installation tip from cushcore about putting your wheel horizontal on a plastic dustbin was GOLD! Why didn't I already know this??? This would seriously have saved me hours of swearing over the past few years. There was zero chance of getting the tyre on the old way, and it went on in less than 5 mins using the dustbin method.

After all that effort, getting sealant everywhere, the tyre wouldn't seat, even with the servo compressor. That's when I remembered that I used to stick a tube in my downhill bike for a day or two to get the bead seated, and then I would take the tube out and go tubeless. Duh! So I went surfing.

Long story short - haven't ridden on the diy cushcore yet...
 
For dealing getting a tyre on with inserts I’ve come up with a solution that’s working for me

First of all I put the tyre on with out the insert and seat it using my airshot. No need for sealant at this point just soapy water. If it’s a real bitch then using an inner tube is worth considering.

Make sure the tyre seats properly and evenly

Once it’s on I pop one side off completely (taking out the tube if used) and, with the wheel on the side I put in the insert and the sealant. Because the tyre is properly seated on the other side there is no leakage even if the insert needs wrestling with a bit to get it aligned correctly.

Then I can put the open side of the tyre back on. As long as I keep it open side up there is no problem with sealant spillage.

More soapy water to ensure a good even seat then bang in the air (I use the airshot because it’s quick and easy) and job done.

Minimal faff really considering the benefits I’m getting from running an insert


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cut the side wall while riding yesterday and while the sealant caught it quickly I had lost enough pressure to feel every bump on the way down. I read this a while ago and even went to Clark rubber for foam backing rod a few weeks ago (they only had really skinny stuff). So I was thinking about this as I nursed my bike down the hill trying not to damage the nicest wheel I've bought and thinking what I had in the garage that could be used for an insert for a plus tyre.

Welcome to the pool noodle insert. When you only have $3 and half an hour before the kids realise you are cutting up their stuff.

I'm running a dt Swiss m1700 with a 30mm internal and 3 inch tyres so I have some leeway with how much volume I can use up. The pool noodle is certainly ugly but after a run at Stromlo today I couldn't really tell it was there but I run pretty low pressure and didn't feel and rim hits so I'm pretty happy. Will keep riding and see how much sealant it soaks up but for cheap protection for someone who doesn't ride that hard and only really needs it when the tyre goes I think it should be OK.
 
Running HN on my Rocky Thunderbolt.
Running CC on my Norco Range.
Both running Stans flow rims 30mm.

Chalk and cheese.
CC miles ahead in protection and feel and traction from lower pressures.

Pinch flatted my HN equipped bike twice, saved the rims though. Last leak sealed up with stans jizz.

I've gone back to a bit higher pressures with the HN and been fine so far.
They don't offer the same support (tire roll) as the CC.

I have had a couple of hits on the CC that I thought would be bad but they survived.

I have seen a friend hit a square edge and pinch flat with a cut right through the CC though, so nothing is perfect, although his rim was ok.

I'll run the CC for gravity riding/enduro.
For trail riding I'll run the HN because I already have them but if I was to do it again maybe try something else or a DH version?
The CC are a bit heavy, a bit pricey and a pain to fix trailside just for casual riding.
For racing/enduro they are a no brainer for me.
 
Finally got round to getting the foam backing rod fitted to both wheels.
Front is a Minion DHF EXO TR 3C. Fitting it was a piece of cake. Even aired up first go with my handpump.
I fitted the front foam tighter round the rim this time - I definitely think you need it pretty tight. If you squeeze the sidewalls you can feel it giving slightly more support -it's pretty marginal though.
Much less air in the tyre means it feels different to ride. You can run lower pressures than before and there are none of those 'Oh Shit' moments when you realise you've run too low pressures because your rim is pinging off every rock on the trail. I think partly the foam is cushioning them, and partly the pressure ramps up quicker (due to less air in the tyre) so the tyre doesn't compress enough to impact.
One thing I found very strange at first - when the tyre is completely deflated, it still feels like it's only half flat. I even reckon I could ride home on a flat tyre without damaging the rim.
So overall I'm blown away with them. For the DH bike or Enduro racing it's a no-brainer.
 
Top