A little bit of advice please

sc.

Likes Dirt
I have built wheels and a year or so ago had a new hub put in the Muru front wheel when I had to change forks. Doable but not the most cost effective option when you factor hubs, spokes and labour.

I would grab new wheels and anything that is specific to the new frame like cranks etc to maintain chainline. Keep all the old parts and pick up a cheap donor and rebuild the first bike for a commuter etc when you dont need the new beastie. N + 1!
I like this idea, I've become a bit attached to the Haro as I've been having a lot of fun riding it. Cheers mate.
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
If the cranks fit without the chainring hitting the chainstay then just use them.

Fussing over chain line isn’t worth it.


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schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Exactly, why if you had a giant with spacer on drive side you would be better running non boost on a boost frame. Makes sense doesn't it.

Just remember the hammer always wins.
 
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pink poodle

気が狂っている男
If the cranks fit without the chainring hitting the chainstay then just use them.

Fussing over chain line isn’t worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Easy tiger!!! The perfect chain line for 1 or his 10 rear cogs and that single or preferred front ring is super important amongst all the other chain line possibilities presented by running something more than a single speed. Speaking of...if teenagers have been getting chain line right in their garages on bmx for the last 209 years it can't be that difficult.
 
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Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Just something to be aware of, what made me notice the cranks being boost was the drag in granny gear that wasn’t there before hand. It was pretty severe.
Luckily I was fitting them up in the store so it wasn't much to wipe the grease off, box em up and send em back.
 
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sc.

Likes Dirt
Just something to be aware of, what made me notice the cranks being boost was the drag in granny gear that wasn’t there before hand. It was pretty severe.
Luckily I was fitting them up in the store so it wasn't much to wipe the grease off, box em up and send em back.
Good to know, thanks mate.
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
About $1.50 + post.


Wheels don't hold value very well and cost a fortune to post. I've sold a few wheels in my time and always felt like I was giving them away before the low balling started.
 
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The Reverend

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Poodle is correct.. unfortunately people seldom pay decent coin for used parts. You're best off posting it on FB and seeing what happens.

Carbon wheels can sell but some people are a little wary for obvious reasons.

Be prepared for people to ask you to leave it on the hard rubbish for collection.
 
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pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Just keep them and the hero for a second bike. You'll get close to nothing for it and be wishing you had a second bike in no time. Easier to just keep this one and suck up the small cost now. This will also help you on the way to wishing you had a third bike.
 
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sc.

Likes Dirt
I was kind of trying to keep costs down with building the frame, I've spent a small fortune building a new engine for my kombi recently so funds for bikes are very low. I'll see if I get any bites on the wheels and go from there I think.

Appreciate the advice from you guys, thank you.
 

Nick 77

Squid
I had a Haro Mary. I never finished it. It was the copper colour. I swapped it for a pair of S-Works shoes. The shoes are worn out but the lust for the Haro continues. Get new wheels as the Honzo would be nice with a wider rear tyre on a wider rim. I also long for the Honzo. Mid travel Hardtails are great fun.
You should probably keep the Haro though..... bit of a cult bike.
 
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Nick 77

Squid
The rear discmounts on the Honzo are IS which means you can run 142 mm hubs. Space the post mount with some washers and your golden. There is a conversion kit for this very hack. Your FSA wheels may be able to convert to 12mm axle if so this will work and no wheel dishing is required. I have a set of Easton Havoc wheels that would work...the titanium coloured set. Did I ever tell you about my 1964 VW fastback that I traded? Why....why?
 

sc.

Likes Dirt
The rear discmounts on the Honzo are IS which means you can run 142 mm hubs. Space the post mount with some washers and your golden. There is a conversion kit for this very hack. Your FSA wheels may be able to convert to 12mm axle if so this will work and no wheel dishing is required. I have a set of Easton Havoc wheels that would work...the titanium coloured set. Did I ever tell you about my 1964 VW fastback that I traded? Why....why?
I'm planning on keeping the Haro, I really like it and am pretty attached to it already.
That's great to know about the Honzo rear, opens up some more options for me, thank you mate. Do you have a pic of the Easton wheels?

Seems we like a few of the same things, hardtails and old VW's are both lots of fun.
 

Nick 77

Squid
Yes I can get you a photo.....might be a couple of days before I get the chance. Pretty sure I will have a couple of tyres to go on them.
 
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