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Bring back the D.O.P.E!But it still has the dreaded brake jack. The only real solution is a floating brake mount a la BMW.
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I’d love too. But the price is prohibitive. Too exxy for me atm, if I was working and getting overtime it’d be a different story, but the income I’m getting being a full time gym rat isn’t enough.You should try a gearbox. Two freewheels and a fixed gear ratio to optomise the suspension to (instead of the range of using a cassette), no pedal feedback. Also, single chainline means next to no bob as well (suspension is pretty active, so still a little).
Pfft. 2 option.But it still has the dreaded brake jack. The only real solution is a floating brake mount a la BMW.
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3. Use your front more than the rear!!Pfft. 2 option.
1: Don’t brake.
2: (my preferred option) Don’t go fast enough to require braking.
Oh hell no! My eyes are still recovering from having to look at those butt ugly Konas.Bring back the D.O.P.E!
I'm revolted and hungry at the same time. What is it?Did I miss something? HSP?
I get what you are saying but wrap is more important than teeth engaged.@Oddjob snack pack from a kebab shop with, guessing here, garlic and chilli/bbq sauce.
@Dales Cannon, still more teeth in contact with the chain than a 9t driver on the bmx. should be fine with the chain guides. Assuming "driving crownwheel" is front sprocket.
I also worries about this. Not a lot of engagement there.Looks like there is 90 degrees or less of chain wrap on the driving crownwheel. That would worry me.
He’s referring to the chainring wrap but using real ‘techy’ terms. It does look a little concerning but probably fine I reckon.We talking about this pic?
The pivot idler is not driven - it's an idler. There is no turning torque between it & the chain.
What is it you are worried about?
Bit of RD slap and you’ve got 6 teeth...