Boost hubs. Here to stay?

[Zaf]

The issue is parts with your existing rig. Forced obsolescence. You dropped $$7k on your brand new pinion bike. Now imagine if it became harder and/or more expensive to replace the wheels -you'd be pissed.

Roadies get pissed off about chainrings not being standard, at the very least they have resolved the hub spacing trajectory.

Sort of like what happened with QR axles and how that technology doesn't exist anymore or spares for it?
Seriously, you guys are arguing over a hypothetical that didn't even happen to something like QR (which arguably should just go ahead and die a proper death). I also bought Pinion, and Nicolai, both which have parts guarantees and pretty solid reputations for reliability and service to begin with.

 

[SummitFever]

The stiffness differences are very minor and are almost always offset but the manf using 28 spokes instead of 32 spokes. I've said this before, a manf can't on the one hand run some bullshit about 6% stiffer boost v non-boost and then use 12.5% less spokes (eg. 12.5% less stiffness) than if they'd just used 32 spokes. If 32 spokes is too flexy, then go with 36 spokes. That's what used to happen and its all achievable without a new "standard". It's also incredibly customisable with no incompatible parts. I've ran my 30kg kids on 16 spoke front wheels, my wife's used 24h fronts and my tandem has had 36h wheels and the wheels have all been inter-changeable and perfectly fit for purpose.

 

[SummitFever]

... something like QR (which arguably should just go ahead and die a proper death)...

I've never got the problem people have with QR (a bit like I don't get why people have a problem with front derailleurs). QR has worked perfectly in lots of cycling applications. I myself have tested the exact same fork and wheel (120mm SID, Tune King front hub) back to back with 9mm QR and 15mm lowers and could not tell the difference.

 

[Calvin27]

Sort of like what happened with QR axles and how that technology doesn't exist anymore or spares for it?

qr is not comparable to boost. It was/is around for a hell of a lot longer, had larger market share (basically all bikes including non-mtb), had no compatibility issues with existing gearset, survived the disc brake, and was largely standard in all forms (even 130/135mm spacing was not that much of an issue).

boost in comparison has been around probably 5 years (not sure how to measure this, but generally a lot shorter than qr), is about to be superseeded, has had limited application to a subset of mtbs only, requires different cranks and it successor overboost requires a different brake spacing.

I am not sure how you cannot possibly tell the difference.

 

[slider_phil]

I was fine with the superboost 157mm, that made sense over the 148mm incremental upgrade. In fact it's just an old DH 150mm hub with 142mm end caps generally. Unfortunately I'm now on a frame with boost spacing so I've had to go and buy new hubs and what not. The fact that in two years we've gone from 142mm, to 148mm and now probably 157mm is just crazy.

It probably wouldn't be so bad if the moment everyone changed spacings, the bikes on the old standard suddenly dropped in value like a brick. There's always the argument that "no one's forcing you to buy a new bike", but it's things like this that make it harder for those of us who might buy and sell every couple of years.

 

[nzhumpy]

There's always the argument that "no one's forcing you to buy a new bike", but it's things like this that make it harder for those of us who might buy and sell every couple of years.

Or those that break a frame with a lifetime warranty and find that their existing parts don't swap over to the replacement.

 

[Chriso_29er]

Thanks for ruining my new bike purchase fellers! Was just about to pull the trigger on a new Boost bike, but after reading this might hang back a little or buy a used bike instead.

And don't get me started on the Sram geo-block thing. The bike I was going for I planned to take the 2nd tier model purely because I refuse to own a sram bike, Even though I would probably prefer it.

 

[nzhumpy]

Thanks for ruining my new bike purchase fellers! Was just about to pull the trigger on a new Boost bike, but after reading this might hang back a little or buy a used bike instead.

Don't let us stop you, buy that new bike, sell the factory wheels because they're inevitably shite and purchase a nice set of wheels with interchangeable endcaps/axles that should be semi futureproof.

 

[Ultra Lord]

Get that bike, then you too can bitch when they change standards again in another few years!

Sram can eat a bagful. Buy that second tier, spend savings on riding trip. Winnah!

 

[Chriso_29er]

Don't let us stop you, buy that new bike, sell the factory wheels because they're inevitably shite and purchase a nice set of wheels with interchangeable endcaps/axles that should be semi futureproof.

If I'm dropping up to 5K+ on a new bike I would rather not have to worry about changing standards once again or having to compromise with adaptors or such shit in future!
Old man rant over lol

Until I do buy the new bike and then rant again in a few years! ha ha.

 

[k3n!f]

A conversion to a Boost spaced frame may be on the horizon for me. Unfortunately I don't have the money to buy a new DT 240 wheelset to go with it, especially if Boost gets replaced by MegaUberBoost in a few years. I have found a conversion kit to change the front 15x100mm centrelock hub to boost spacing. Easy.

The rear seems a bit more difficult. Most of the sites say you can't convert the centrelock 12x142mm version to Boost, but you can change the 6 bolt version. Has anyone tried to put a centrelock to 6 bolt adapter on the hub, and then use the Boost conversion kit bolted onto the adapter?

This:
https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/shimano-sm-rtad-centrelock-to-6-bolt-rotor-adaptor

Then this:
https://www.actionsports.de/en/boos...240s-dt-350-dt-370-is-rear-hub-12x148mm-22819

If I try it am I going to die? Anyone comment on the strength of this MacGyver monstrosity?

 

[teK--]

A conversion to a Boost spaced frame may be on the horizon for me. Unfortunately I don't have the money to buy a new DT 240 wheelset to go with it, especially if Boost gets replaced by MegaUberBoost in a few years. I have found a conversion kit to change the front 15x100mm centrelock hub to boost spacing. Easy.

The rear seems a bit more difficult. Most of the sites say you can't convert the centrelock 12x142mm version to Boost, but you can change the 6 bolt version. Has anyone tried to put a centrelock to 6 bolt adapter on the hub, and then use the Boost conversion kit bolted onto the adapter?

This:
https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/shimano-sm-rtad-centrelock-to-6-bolt-rotor-adaptor

Then this:
https://www.actionsports.de/en/boos...240s-dt-350-dt-370-is-rear-hub-12x148mm-22819

If I try it am I going to die? Anyone comment on the strength of this MacGyver monstrosity?

Maybe just keep front wheel and buy a new boost rear wheel. There are plenty demand for non boost rear wheels on the used market.

 

[Calvin27]

Maybe just keep front wheel and buy a new boost rear wheel. There are plenty demand for non boost rear wheels on the used market.

This is what the bike world has come to - franken standards for bicycles.

I vaguely tossed up the idea of going to boost front hubs because finding the right fork was proving to be more and more difficult.

 

[Zaf]

Removed by user

 

[Isildur]

A conversion to a Boost spaced frame may be on the horizon for me. Unfortunately I don't have the money to buy a new DT 240 wheelset to go with it, especially if Boost gets replaced by MegaUberBoost in a few years. I have found a conversion kit to change the front 15x100mm centrelock hub to boost spacing. Easy.

The rear seems a bit more difficult. Most of the sites say you can't convert the centrelock 12x142mm version to Boost, but you can change the 6 bolt version. Has anyone tried to put a centrelock to 6 bolt adapter on the hub, and then use the Boost conversion kit bolted onto the adapter?

This:
https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/shimano-sm-rtad-centrelock-to-6-bolt-rotor-adaptor

Then this:
https://www.actionsports.de/en/boos...240s-dt-350-dt-370-is-rear-hub-12x148mm-22819

If I try it am I going to die? Anyone comment on the strength of this MacGyver monstrosity?

So, I've just done a similar thing, using an old 29'er wheelset in a Boost frame while I'm bike testing.

If you get this, it's simple but effective. And then just adjust your High & Low limit screws on the derailleur to match the new cassette position.
https://www.bike24.com/p2271240.html?q=now8

The chainline isn't great in the lowest gears to be sure, so if I do get the bike they're on, I'll probably do a double combo of that adapter above, plus the MRP adapter only for the caliper mount

 

[k3n!f]

If you get this, it's simple but effective. And then just adjust your High & Low limit screws on the derailleur to match the new cassette position.
https://www.bike24.com/p2271240.html?q=now8

Great find! NOW8 look like they have matching front and rear kits to space centrelock to 6 bolt Boost. Thanks for your help everyone!

https://r2-bike.com/NOW8-Conversion-Kit-Boost-Adapter-Rear-Centerlock-12x148-Boost
https://r2-bike.com/NOW8-Conversion-Kit-Boost-Adapter-Front-Centerlock-15x110-Boost

 

[pink poodle]

Hold off for 20mm Boost if you can, you know the standards that @pink poodle and @moorey are waiting for will be the best thing for the next 20 years.

Of all the pointless minute changes to standards over recent years, ditching the 110x20mm front wheel must be pretty much the top of the list! How many micrograms are shaved off by going 100x15mm or 110x15mm? The only better option would be going purple...


...and who the fuck convinced bike riders that 148mm hub was needed? People are so fucking gullible! Just stick the extra 2mm on and go 150mm, or keep the 6mm and stay 142mm. I'm still waiting for a new standard in pedal axles. You know that halving their diameter will allow for a thinner pedal yeah?

 

[Zaf]

Removed by user

 

[pink poodle]

15x100

The second best solution to a problem that didn't exist.

It is a magical equation...somehow it solves a problem and makes a problem all at the same time.

 

[Calvin27]

...and who the fuck convinced bike riders that 148mm hub was needed? People are so fucking gullible! Just stick the extra 2mm on and go 150mm, or keep the 6mm and stay 142mm. I'm still waiting for a new standard in pedal axles. You know that halving their diameter will allow for a thinner pedal yeah?

Lots of people said just go DH spec, but the argument at the time was that the q factor would be too wide and that the chain line would get buggered (hey bonus is we can sell new cranksets too!). But somehow now that's not a problem anymore....

My money is on the derailleur hanger to be the next thing that will change. Historically the pisswankery happens at the frame and affects the components. This is true for BB, headset, hubs etc. When it didn't connect to the frame (like eastons 35mm handlebars, and to a lesser extent giant overdrive) it generally didn't work.