29er Tyre Thread

jathanas

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14-16 PSI!! Far out krisko, no wonder they felt a little squirmy.

At 76kg I run 22 front - 25 rear. I own a digital tyre pressure gauge, it helps to really know when you run low pressures...

Cheers, J

Ok I went out for a couple of hours last night and had alot of trouble with tyre pressures. My usual 28-30psi used on my Rocket Rons, had me bouncing around stromlo like a pinball!
I let out pressure prior to the decent and did the grab the tyre trick, yep it felt as if I was running mid 20psi.... later at home I checked and i was running between 14-16psi!!!

On these pressures I felt the tyre rolling somewhat on longer turns making me nervous.
I think the sidewalls deceive you with the grab test and I'll be trying 20-22psi. What pressures are you guys running? Im 88kg.
 

RDH

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Someone had a set of 2.4 Ardents on their Fisher at Back Yamma on the weekend. There was a whole lotta tyre there! I had to look twice, at first glance I thought it was a Pugsley.
What a coincidence - I now have Ardent 2.4s on my Fisher.

It definitely looks a lot chunkier than the 2.0/2.2 Bontrager combination that was on there before - how could it not. Not disproportionately so, though. At least not to my eyes anyway. But them my other bikes are all DH/FR/AM so it's in pretty chunky company really. Haven't ridden it yet.
 
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Rick_B

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Hoping someone could give me a couple of pointers.

I purchased some Bontrager strips and valves today, and a bottle of Stan's sealant, and was planning to give the tubeless conversion on my Blunt wheelset a go tonight. Going to use my current Racing Ralph Evo's for now, and get some Maxxis Ikon 2.2 EXO in the next fortnight or so.

Questions I have (apologies if these are stupid questions):

- Is it worth even attempting this if I dont have an air compressor?
- Assuming the existing rim tape needs to be completely removed prior to instaling the Bontrager strip. Does a thin layer of tape need to be fitted to the rim prior to installing the strip, or does the strip itself snap against the rim and seal all of the holes over?

I've watched some on line tutorials, Stan's vids etc., and they make it seem very easy. For some reason, I dont see it going as smoothly down in the man cave tonight. Any response will be appreciated.

Cheers.
 

MountGower

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Rick

Test run the proceedure without sealant and see if you can air up without a compressor. Don't substitute the compressor with a CO2 canistor if you are putting the sealant in first as CO2 will solidify the sealant.

If you can't inflate with a floor pump, try putting a couple of rounds of electrical tape between what ever liner you have now and the tubeless rim strip to bulk out the inner rim. I'd remove the existing liner if it won't keep out the sealant and use some reinforced tape.

If you want to, you can bring it here. I have a compressor and bits and pices to get yo out of trouble if you like. The girls are horse riding tomorrow at 10am so I'm free to get in to some blokey stuff. Let me know.
 
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frensham

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Hoping someone could give me a couple of pointers.
I purchased some Bontrager strips and valves today, and a bottle of Stan's sealant, and was planning to give the tubeless conversion on my Blunt wheelset a go tonight. Going to use my current Racing Ralph Evo's for now, and get some Maxxis Ikon 2.2 EXO in the next fortnight or so.
Questions I have (apologies if these are stupid questions):
- Is it worth even attempting this if I dont have an air compressor?
- Assuming the existing rim tape needs to be completely removed prior to instaling the Bontrager strip. Does a thin layer of tape need to be fitted to the rim prior to installing the strip, or does the strip itself snap against the rim and seal all of the holes over?
I've watched some on line tutorials, Stan's vids etc., and they make it seem very easy. For some reason, I dont see it going as smoothly down in the man cave tonight. Any response will be appreciated.
Cheers.
You should use some form of tape under the rim strip. If your RR's are 2011 models they will be tubeless ready and should inflate with a GOOD floor pump. Use lots of suds!
 

Rick_B

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The conversion process has got the better of me this weekend. Mounted and aired up my old Schwalbe RR's on the front wheel last night, but the tyre had some cuts in the sidewall and leaked sealant a fair bit, even with all the shaking of the tyre to help seal the bead. I was surprised though how easily it seemed to inflate with the track pump.

Bought a new set of 2011 Snakeskin "tubeless ready" RR's this morning and had another go. Tyres mounted easily enough to the rims, but try as I might, I couldn't get the tyres seated and aired up. Threw some tubes in and I'll try again next weekend, hoping that the tyres might stretch and take on a more installation friendly shape.

I'll say one thing, the newer Schwalbe tyres are definitely smaller and/or narrower than comparable 2010 models. I have never struggled so badly to mount a tyre and tube combo as I did this afternoon. Broke a Michelin lever (I thought until now they were indesructible) and I hope there were no small children in the vicinity of my workshop...there was some colourful language.

Now for a long evening on the couch watching the Formula 1 and Road WC.
 

frensham

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The conversion process has got the better of me this weekend. Mounted and aired up my old Schwalbe RR's on the front wheel last night, but the tyre had some cuts in the sidewall and leaked sealant a fair bit, even with all the shaking of the tyre to help seal the bead. I was surprised though how easily it seemed to inflate with the track pump.

Bought a new set of 2011 Snakeskin "tubeless ready" RR's this morning and had another go. Tyres mounted easily enough to the rims, but try as I might, I couldn't get the tyres seated and aired up. Threw some tubes in and I'll try again next weekend, hoping that the tyres might stretch and take on a more installation friendly shape.

I'll say one thing, the newer Schwalbe tyres are definitely smaller and/or narrower than comparable 2010 models. I have never struggled so badly to mount a tyre and tube combo as I did this afternoon. Broke a Michelin lever (I thought until now they were indesructible) and I hope there were no small children in the vicinity of my workshop...there was some colourful language.

Now for a long evening on the couch watching the Formula 1 and Road WC.
What rims are you using? I just put some new Nobby Nic Evo/Snakeskin/Tubeless Ready on my Shimano XT 29er rims and was amazed at how easy they went on (no tyre levers) and how easily they inflated without sealant or suds with a track pump.
 

krisko

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You don't need tape under Bontrager rim strips! The strips snap into place firmly creating a perfect seal.
Running tape under the strips will compromise the seal.


Im not sure if the others here have ever used Bontrager rim strips but all I could think was
'MR T Voice: Watcha' talkin 'bout!' when reading the other advice.

You will need an air compressor, it's frustration insurance! Bulking up with tape over the rim strip is just trying to botch something up to get it to work with a track pump...which is very hit and miss and adds rotating weight.
 
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MountGower

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The first thing I think when somebody is calling me a fool is, what a dead give away for someone who just hasn't got anything worth while to say, so he starts on the other people in the thread. Well done smart arse. It doesn't take a fool any more than it takes a smart arse or a genius to know that if air is escaping to the point that seating the bead is not happening that building up the bead seat diameter is the answer. Surely that is just common sense.

Adding rotating weight??? Watcha talking 'bout fool? A few rounds of electrical tape, LOL. I could jet snot that kind of weight. How does towing that compressor around on the trails effect you? Bit of weight there? Keen on farting around with your CO2 while your mates are staring at you holding them up? Like a nice 30km walk back to the car?

If you don't have a compressor free solution, you don't have a trail worthy conversion. Frustration insurance is the assurance you can get going again if the worst happens. Surely any fool can see that.

Cheers.
 
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Clyde Dave

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The first thing I think when somebody is calling me a fool is, what a dick head. A dead give away for someone who just hasn't got anything worth while to say, so he starts on the other people in the thread. Well done smart arse. It doesn't take a fool any more than it takes a smart arse or a genius to know that if air is escaping to the point that seating the bead is not happening that building up the bead seat diameter is the answer. Surely that is just common sense.

Adding rotating weight??? Watcha talking 'bout fool? A few rounds of electrical tape, LOL. I could jet snot that kind of weight. How does towing that compressor around on the trails effect you? Bit of weight there, fool?

If you don't have a compressor free solution, you don't have a trail worthy conversion. Frustration insurance is the assurance you can get going again if the worst happens. Surely any fool can see that.

Cheers.
No need for rim strips with the bontrager system. The strips lock into the bead of the tyre directly, so it is the tyre not the system that creates difficulty when inflating.
Because the valve is separate from the strip out on the trail when it hits the fan, you can put a tube in without having to remove the entire strip and getting goo everywhere, like the stans does.
 

jathanas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
2012 29x2.2 Fast Trak S-Works

Rode the 29x2.2 S-Works it for four hours today as a front tyre. Running at tubeless at around 26PSI. It weighs around 560gm. This is a brand new version of the Fast Trak with a new rubber compound and tread design.

The conditions (You Yangs Stockyards and Kurrajong):
  • Hardpack
  • Loam (with some loose sections)
  • Granite Rock gardens galore.

There's not much bag there for a 2.2, but I was very happy with the grip. It is better than the Fast Trak LK in terms of holding a line during technical riding and cornering, and it seemed to roll just as well.

It needed more sealant than the Renegade Control to hold air, and on the bike it doesn't seem that much bigger than the Renegade.

The most noticeable thing about the new design is how much softer the tread compound is, which of course means it grips better on rock and over roots.

It's a keeper IMHO, I'll be using it as an all-conditions front tyre. I'll be interested in a 29x2.0 Control casing tyre for the rear during wet conditions.
 
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krisko

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The first thing I think when somebody is calling me a fool is, what a dead give away for someone who just hasn't got anything worth while to say, so he starts on the other people in the thread. Well done smart arse. It doesn't take a fool any more than it takes a smart arse or a genius to know that if air is escaping to the point that seating the bead is not happening that building up the bead seat diameter is the answer. Surely that is just common sense.

Adding rotating weight??? Watcha talking 'bout fool? A few rounds of electrical tape, LOL. I could jet snot that kind of weight. How does towing that compressor around on the trails effect you? Bit of weight there? Keen on farting around with your CO2 while your mates are staring at you holding them up? Like a nice 30km walk back to the car?

If you don't have a compressor free solution, you don't have a trail worthy conversion. Frustration insurance is the assurance you can get going again if the worst happens. Surely any fool can see that.

Cheers.
Guido voice"My uncle John shez there iz nothingz shticky tape cant fix!"

You make me laugh!
 

crash bandicoot

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The first thing I think when somebody is calling me a fool is, what a dead give away for someone who just hasn't got anything worth while to say, so he starts on the other people in the thread. Well done smart arse. It doesn't take a fool any more than it takes a smart arse or a genius to know that if air is escaping to the point that seating the bead is not happening that building up the bead seat diameter is the answer. Surely that is just common sense.

Adding rotating weight??? Watcha talking 'bout fool? A few rounds of electrical tape, LOL. I could jet snot that kind of weight. How does towing that compressor around on the trails effect you? Bit of weight there? Keen on farting around with your CO2 while your mates are staring at you holding them up? Like a nice 30km walk back to the car?

If you don't have a compressor free solution, you don't have a trail worthy conversion. Frustration insurance is the assurance you can get going again if the worst happens. Surely any fool can see that.

Cheers.
I don't understand your assertion that you would need to take a compressor with you while riding, surely if you had a puncture that tyre goo won't fix you would just fit a tube and pump it up.
Or, if the tyre parted company with the rim, fit a tube inside the tyre and fit it back onto the wheel, though, if this did happen you would have to question your choice of tyre and rim suitability for a tubless conversion, or your ability to perform said conversion.
As for your particular problem with your mates being unhappy with the lenght of time it takes for you to fix a flat tyre, maybe ask them to help, if they are mates this request should present no problems and will have you riding happily in no time at all.
Unless, of course, they know that you are a total arse, in which case they will probably just ride off.
 

MountGower

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LOL, another big man with the personal abuse. You obviously don't have a point princess, which is why you resort to the same sad BS as that pinky sucking big man in the post above yours.

Good luck finding everything in that tyre you've been running tubeless for how long? If you can't guarentee returning tubeless, don't go out tubeless.
 

krisko

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All I was trying to suggest the approved installation using the Bontrager rim strips.
Instructions: http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/fisher/om/mountain/tubeless_inst.htm


In no way should sticky tape be used to alter the rim strip. Infact doing so could cause serious harm or worse. The risk of the tyre blowing off the rim with your advice is great
I apologise if you were offended by my statement, referring to your statement as being foolish, however it may be wise to with hold your advice contradicting proper installation and placing others at risk.
 

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crash bandicoot

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LOL, another big man with the personal abuse. You obviously don't have a point princess, which is why you resort to the same sad BS as that pinky sucking big man in the post above yours.

Good luck finding everything in that tyre you've been running tubeless for how long? If you can't guarentee returning tubeless, don't go out tubeless.
Opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one, but, most aren't worth looking at.
 

steve-waters

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Pressure for Conti Race King on rear?

Hi,

Just wanted to hear from others what they are running their Race Kings at on the rear - I am 85kg and running 30psi but think it might be a bit low it feels a bit squirmy.

I am running it tubeless on Crests - which it does like a dream.

I think cause its side wall is so soft/thin it might need a bit more pressure.

I have a Nobby Nic Snake skin on the front which sticks like s@#t to a blanket.

Once I mange to track down a decent priced Racing Ralph in snakeskin think I will swap out the Race King.

Hope your rides were good this weekend...finally managing to tame my 9'er in the twists.
 
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Knopey

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I agree with running a bit more in the Race Kings - with the high thin sidewall they did feel squirmy and wierd to me at 30 or less. 34 - 38 felt best.
Also when running them at 28 one time the front burped quite easily (possibly due to squirminess?).
Unfortunately these probs negated the whole "low pressure" benefits of tubeless, but them's the breaks. I didn't replace my Race Kings with Race Kings :)
 

JDB

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Looking for some tyre advice. I've just ordered a new set of wheels, Velocity P35s on Hope Pro II Evo hubs, and am thinking I should get some new tyres to match my new super wide rims. The bike is a On-One Scandal, running ridgid and single speed, that will be getting ridden around the usual SE Queensland spots. Going to start off with WTB Exiwolf 2.3 since that's what I have at the moment, but looking for something with a bigger bag to make the most of the wide rims.
 

jathanas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Looking for some tyre advice. I've just ordered a new set of wheels, Velocity P35s on Hope Pro II Evo hubs, and am thinking I should get some new tyres to match my new super wide rims. The bike is a On-One Scandal, running ridgid and single speed, that will be getting ridden around the usual SE Queensland spots. Going to start off with WTB Exiwolf 2.3 since that's what I have at the moment, but looking for something with a bigger bag to make the most of the wide rims.
2.4" Racing Ralph: Huge bag and fast rolling.
 
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