pistonbroke
Eats Squid
That's right fool! 650b iz da best.
Again roady advice and guidance.
- Thread starter XYGTHO
- Start date
Hugor
Likes Dirt
I'm also quite amused by the disgust that a significant proportion of the roadie community have towards the road disc brake movement.
I have actually changed shop because of the attitude that I received from the manager when I made enquiries about a road disc bike.
For me it's a safety issue rather than a performance one and they will certainly be on my next bike purchase.
I have actually changed shop because of the attitude that I received from the manager when I made enquiries about a road disc bike.
For me it's a safety issue rather than a performance one and they will certainly be on my next bike purchase.
Sumgy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I truly dont care if someone wants to put disc brakes on their bike.
I have never felt I needed more brakes even in the wet.
But if someone else does, good on them.
My opinion is that thy are not needed if you ride to the conditions.
That does not mean that everyone has to have the same opinion.
And dont feel that I am picking only on road disc brakes.
I also think that through axles, 142/12, tapered steerers, BB30 and a heap of other bike stuff is unnecessary too.
I have never felt I needed more brakes even in the wet.
But if someone else does, good on them.
My opinion is that thy are not needed if you ride to the conditions.
That does not mean that everyone has to have the same opinion.
And dont feel that I am picking only on road disc brakes.
I also think that through axles, 142/12, tapered steerers, BB30 and a heap of other bike stuff is unnecessary too.
Calvin27
Eats Squid
I don't have so much issue with a heap of development stuff but tapered steerers are an annoyance. It's a half-assed move to keep the same steerer diameter so that the same stems can be used etc. Everyone should just take cannondale's lead and get on with 1.5! This is worse on road bikes with My spesh (roadie) having some stupid 1 3/8 bottom steerer with a custom taper on the fork! Who the hell needs a stronger headset on a road bike?
Tapered steerers are just as stiff (stiffer according to some tests) that a straight 1.5 and significantly lighter.
I think you'll also find that Cannondale use 4 or 5 different headset standards across their range.
Would you like me to nominate you for UCI technical chief?
Honestly, we were just fine with wooden rims and downtube shifters.
Sumgy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Yep, but marketing hype sells bikes.
There'd still be marketing hype and arguments.Yep, but marketing hype sells bikes.
I really like the lighter weight of Balsa but I just can't get past the crappy brake performance. Wolbers new Cedar rim with the charred brake surface treatment seems to be the goods, light durable and great braking performance.
brisneyland
Likes Dirt
Hey guys, how should a road bike fit?
Test rode a cheap second hand bike today (57cm), top tube felt really short. I also had to really extend my neck to look far enough down the road.
I'm 181 cm tall, my current MTB is a L/XL hardtail with a 90mm stem. It feels much longer in the cockpit than the roady.
Test rode a cheap second hand bike today (57cm), top tube felt really short. I also had to really extend my neck to look far enough down the road.
I'm 181 cm tall, my current MTB is a L/XL hardtail with a 90mm stem. It feels much longer in the cockpit than the roady.
Sumgy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I would have thought that a 57cm would be too big for you to be honest.
I am 187cm and ride a 58cm.
Then again I would have thought a L/XL (19"?) MTB would have been too big for you too so what would I know.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
Braking performance on Balsa rims (all wooden rims to be honest) can easily be sorted by using Stonestop Arkansas whetstones instead of those modern polymer brake blocks....
brisneyland
Likes Dirt
Hmm. My MTB is definitely not on the small side, but I like it. I'd probably get a medium if I wanted more of a technically oriented bike but it works great for xc stuff.
I ended up buying this POS:
I don't actually know what size it is but the top tube is a bit longer than the other bike I road yesterday. It needs a bit of work (tune, swap brake cables etc) but can't complain too much for $120.
Sumgy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
IF, it is a real Concorde it is most certainly not a POS.
Doe the fork have pantographs in the top of it?
Does it have an Italian flag brazed onto the TT?
Is the rear brake bridge a V shape and also pantographed with the word Concorde?
What does the top tube sticker and the Columbus sticker say?
If so it is likely a CIOCC built frame that was built for a Dutch company.
If not then maybe it is a POS with just COncorde stickers on it.
Here is mine that is waiting for some repairs before I build it up completely:
Doe the fork have pantographs in the top of it?
Does it have an Italian flag brazed onto the TT?
Is the rear brake bridge a V shape and also pantographed with the word Concorde?
What does the top tube sticker and the Columbus sticker say?
If so it is likely a CIOCC built frame that was built for a Dutch company.
If not then maybe it is a POS with just COncorde stickers on it.
Here is mine that is waiting for some repairs before I build it up completely:
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brisneyland
Likes Dirt
I think it's real - there's a few photos on the net of Concorde Europas with a similarly garish paint job.
This appears to be one of their real budget models though - made in Taiwan, unknown tubing.
This appears to be one of their real budget models though - made in Taiwan, unknown tubing.
Sumgy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
OK, the Europa was one of their lower end models.
From what I have just read was made of Ultech 4130 Cromo tubing.
