Looking at them I can’t see there would be an issue, as long as they don’t melt.Hmmm, subscribed as I'm in a similar boat. Awesome wheelset, new frames on the horizon, don't want to spring for new hubs if I don't have to!
I bought F+R sets of Problem Solvers for a set of non-boost wheels with 350 hubs, but haven got around to re-dishing the rear yet to use them. I’m also wondering how long it will take before I loose a spacer. I was thinking of getting some heatshrink tubing (preferably with thermosetting glue in it) to try to hold the spacers on to the end caps, although I don’t know that this will work with the rear because it will possibly foul in the dropouts.Hi all, to revive an old thread I've just had to get Boost spacer kits for front and back. I've used the Problem Solvers ones and whilst they seem to do the job they are a complete dick drag to install. You need to be a fucking octopus to get the wheels back in as you have to hold the spacer (or spacers for the front) and then thread the axle back through.
There is also a concern that when you have to take the wheel off on the trail you can lose a spacer. So, my question is this, can anyone see why I shouldn't fix the spacers to the hub somehow? Maybe epoxy?? I'll need to be careful obviously as I'll have to have the axle in place to make sure the spacers are lined up correctly, which pretty much guarantees I'll fuck it up and glue all 3 together. But anything else you guys can think of that would stop me doing it?
Cheers Scott.
That sounds very much like the Wolftooth Boostinator and MRP Better Boost products - they replace the whole endcap, rather than the Problem Solvers approach of adding a spacer to the existing endcap (with the disc offset block).I’ve got a set of DT240 based Roval wheels which are running boost with a converter set from Specialized. They just replace the endcaps and have a disc offset block and longer bolts. The replacement endcaps are just as secure as the original DT ones, not loose and able to be lost.
Not sure if they’d fit std DT hubs also?
Yeah mate is def does but it's not suitable for my wheels. I have onyx racing hubs so these won't fit.The roval one looks like this:
https://www.specialized.com/au/en/roval-boost-conversion-kit--control-sl-29/p/133383
Seems like a much better idea that adding loose spacer parts.
I'm not liking the electrical tape. If it can be fixed with electrical tape then why not just epoxy the bastard in place. Not all the way around though. I'm thinking just a small tag like a weld to hold it but with a small screwdriver or similar can be broken later if you want to use the old wheel spacing?That sounds very much like the Wolftooth Boostinator and MRP Better Boost products - they replace the whole endcap, rather than the Problem Solvers approach of adding a spacer to the existing endcap (with the disc offset block).
Problem Solver front wheel kit (standard and torque cap options):
View attachment 363508
Problem Solver rear set:
View attachment 363509
It's those spacers that @EsPeGe is worried about losing, as am I.
Electrical tape sounds like a good idea @Ackland - any issues with it fouling in the rear dropouts? Possibly the through axle is holding rear wheel in 'precise' alignment once tightened, so maybe it is ok to have some thin tape around the end cap as long as you can get the axle through into the hanger.
Not a bad idea mate but the face of the freehub has "serrations" for lack of a better word so it the tape won't bond to it like it would the spacer.Decent & thin double-sided tape is what I'd go for, epoxy or glue sounds like a bit of a risk and probably wouldn't hold much better anyway. The Bear double-sided white tape is what I'd recommend, very thin and sticks really well.
Just re reading this. Not a bad idea but I do worry that whilst you won't lose the spacers you might end up fouling things and making it a PIA to get the wheels back in.I was thinking of getting some heatshrink tubing (preferably with thermosetting glue in it) to try to hold the spacers on to the end caps, although I don’t know that this will work with the rear because it will possibly foul in the dropouts.
Ah, sorry missed that. If they're not a super popular hub then you may be stuck with those generic spacer kits.Yeah mate is def does but it's not suitable for my wheels. I have onyx racing hubs so these won't fit.
You lot are fancy going with problem solvers...Electrical tape sounds like a good idea @Ackland - any issues with it fouling in the rear dropouts? Possibly the through axle is holding rear wheel in 'precise' alignment once tightened, so maybe it is ok to have some thin tape around the end cap as long as you can get the axle through into the hanger.
Agreed - probably ok for a front wheel without torque caps, but likely won't work for the rear drive side spacer. In my case, I generally only remove the front wheel if I'm taking the bike anywhere in be car, so I'm unlikely to lose the rear unless I get a bad flat on the trails and have to put a tube in.Just re reading this. Not a bad idea but I do worry that whilst you won't lose the spacers you might end up fouling things and making it a PIA to get the wheels back in.
Yeah mate I might look into this a bit more! Good idea thanks.Agreed - probably ok for a front wheel without torque caps, but likely won't work for the rear drive side spacer. In my case, I generally only remove the front wheel if I'm taking the bike anywhere in be car, so I'm unlikely to lose the rear unless I get a bad flat on the trails and have to put a tube in.
Maybe some clear glazing silicon would be worth a go? Strong, flexible, waterproof, pretty much impervious to oil and grease and cleans off easy enough once cured. Would probably work ok with your serrated Onyx hub ends too.