Car Insurance... for a P plater - where do I begin?

Shredden

Knows his goats
So I just bought my first car, a 2004 Subaru Liberty wagon, 6 cylinder engine, manual transmission. Stock as a rock, with no intentions for modifications. Need to get comprehensive insurance for it ASAP. Got a quote from Allianz... and it was fucking $3800 a year, at which rate I could buy a whole new car and then some every two years.

Anyone on here had comprehensive insurance on their first car? How much did you pay and who were you with? Was thinking I would be paying more like $1500 a year...
 

Optic

Likes Dirt
So I just bought my first car, a 2004 Subaru Liberty wagon, 6 cylinder engine, manual transmission. Stock as a rock, with no intentions for modifications. Need to get comprehensive insurance for it ASAP. Got a quote from Allianz... and it was fucking $3800 a year, at which rate I could buy a whole new car and then some every two years.

Anyone on here had comprehensive insurance on their first car? How much did you pay and who were you with? Was thinking I would be paying more like $1500 a year...
Get your parents to be the main driver of the car then put yourself as one of the drivers, but not the main one. It's the only way to reduce it. I've done it all my P-plate years, haven't had a problem.
 

indica

Serial flasher
Get your parents to be the main driver of the car then put yourself as one of the drivers, but not the main one. It's the only way to reduce it. I've done it all my P-plate years, haven't had a problem.
This can make a big difference. It's not fraud either.
Changing the "main" driver has saved me $500 pa and I am male, 40 with rating one for life.
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
Get your parents to be the main driver of the car then put yourself as one of the drivers, but not the main one. It's the only way to reduce it. I've done it all my P-plate years, haven't had a problem.
This is what I did for my sons first car (2001 2.5 liberty sedan) through AAMI.

His quote was $2200, my quote was $550 (but dont list P plater on policy as named driver or premium goes up to $1400).

Only difference was extra $1400 for un named and young driver in the event of an accident (which thankfully didnt happen).

He is now 20 (so still on P plates) and has bought a 2004 E46 BMW 3251 M tech and got insurance through Justcar for $1400, the same as I would get in my name through AAMI directly.

We went with Justcar as there was no price difference (although I think his policy might have something like a $2000 excess) and he builds up a risk record in his own name.
 
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UKDavo

Likes Bikes
Jeez! I pay $1100 a year on P Plates for my MK5 Golf.

Mine is through Budget Insurance. The only fault with them, is they call me 5 times a week asking if I would like a quote for health insurance!
 

MasterOfReality

After forever
First car, I was paying $2100 for a hsv v8, under 25 at the time too.

Just Car was the only one that would insure me at the time.

As soon as I turned 25, got insurance with Shannons for $1100.

Do you live in a fuck off dodgy area?
 

willsy01

Eats Squid
Get your parents to be the main driver of the car then put yourself as one of the drivers, but not the main one. It's the only way to reduce it. I've done it all my P-plate years, haven't had a problem.
This will be problematic after an accident when the insurance investigator finds out he's been the main driver of the car and they void the cover. You know.....Murphy's Law and all.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
Not too keen on being listed as a secondary driver for the reason willsy said.

So far the best quote I have found is Just Car, at around $1900 for comprehensive. I am almost considering Just Car third party + fire and theft at like $600 year, considering I only paid 6.2k for the car. Speaking to Suncorp (who my parents are insured with) the "market value" of the car is ~15k. I dont know whether it is the purchase price or the market value that has a greater effect on the premium?

And nah, I don't live in a dodgy area. Crime rate is a fair bit lower than the australian average, and would be a lot lower if people would actually lock their fucking cars/houses when they are unattended haha.
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
If it's a Liberty H6 manual, you bought an R-B?

They are likely seen as a bit of a performance/high risk car with 180kW & all that. This won't be making life easier for you.
 

Shredden

Knows his goats
If it's a Liberty H6 manual, you bought an R-B?

They are likely seen as a bit of a performance/high risk car with 180kW & all that. This won't be making life easier for you.
Yeah, R-B. Power to weight wise it is similar to an XR6 sedan, which definitely doesn't led itself to a low premium. I was pretty set on a Subaru wagon, and with the P plate rules in vic I am limited to the N/A cars - drove a 2.5l wagon and it just felt a bit lethargic. My parents car is a BA falcon wagon, and I wouldn't want anything much slower than that I don't think.
 

josh_wago

Cannon Fodder
I had a forester xt turbo when I was on my p's I was insured with racv as the main driver and was only paying 1600 a year with an $1100 excess so maybe try racv.​
 

willsy01

Eats Squid
Another thing to remember is that insurance is an individual thing based on many variables......location, where/how the car is stored, age, driving history, car type etc etc. The only thing you can do is ring around as many places as you can find and pick the most suitable. Alternatively, enlist the services of an insurance broker.

Also, the cheapest isn't always the best. The premium may be low but if the company is underwritten by some backyard mob then you're going to have a bitch of a time when you need to claim.
 

Pastavore

Eats Squid
When I was a P plater about 4000 years ago, I drove the cheapest car I could put up with and had third party property insurance. Much, much more affordable. Plenty of time for nice cars later when you can actually drive properly and are less likely to crash and hurt yourself.

And contrary to what automotive industry marketers would have you believe, girls are NOT impressed by hot/fast/expensive cars.
 

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Would 3rd party be ok?

I didn't get Comprehensive on my car until I was 25 and bought one that was worth over $8k. 3rd party was ok, had a couple of crashes that I needed to sort out, but it was cheaper than comprehensive for those 7 years, and I have no crash history according to insurance :)
 

mitchy_

Llama calmer
When I was a P plater about 4000 years ago, I drove the cheapest car I could put up with and had third party property insurance. Much, much more affordable. Plenty of time for nice cars later when you can actually drive properly and are less likely to crash and hurt yourself.

And contrary to what automotive industry marketers would have you believe, girls are NOT impressed by hot/fast/expensive cars.
ditto. i still think my $1400 ford laser was the most enjoyable car i've owned too. (and that's coming from someone who's had plenty of high HP V8/turbo, etc cars)
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Not too keen on being listed as a secondary driver for the reason willsy said.

So far the best quote I have found is Just Car, at around $1900 for comprehensive. I am almost considering Just Car third party + fire and theft at like $600 year, considering I only paid 6.2k for the car. Speaking to Suncorp (who my parents are insured with) the "market value" of the car is ~15k. I dont know whether it is the purchase price or the market value that has a greater effect on the premium?

And nah, I don't live in a dodgy area. Crime rate is a fair bit lower than the australian average, and would be a lot lower if people would actually lock their fucking cars/houses when they are unattended haha.
It's the excess that has the biggest impact after the age/experience of the driver. Try boosting the excess to something significant like $2.5K. If nothing else it might serve as an artificial reminder not to drive like a typical P plater.

Even these days, my excess is set at $2K despite the car not being worth much more than $10K. Though I do pay extra for glass because I'm a country driver and (particularly) the replacement cost of side and rear glass.

You are much better off going with comprehensive since it will only take 5 years or so with claims to earn the highest premium discount...which you'll generally then keep unless you drive like you ride.
 
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