Carbon scratches, to ride or not?

scblack

Leucocholic
Why are there no carbon cricket bats?
The "spring" given by willow is the only stuff that will work for a cricket bat. Do you remember Lillee's aluminium bat?

On topic - I would ride those bars in here, with no second thought. However - I do not use carbon in any "load" part on my DH bikes. No carbon for: bars, stem, cranks. Slightly contradictory.

For the roadie, every possible part is carbon. Different loads in road riding. Only alloy parts on my roadie are: stem body, hubs, pedals.
 

Hellyeah

Likes Bikes and Dirt
That's going to depend what your doing when it gives out. I'm talking along the lines of riding as per pics, thus my suggestion of xc use as ok.

I haven't snapped carbon bike parts. I've snapped (and seen snap) carbon fishing gear and gold clubs. Depending where in the rod it snaps the outcome can be a clean break (such as the thin sensitive tip), a messy mesh Web like tennis rackets often do (in the meaty section near the butt), or an outright explosive mess like busting a golf ball (this while shop guy was trying to make the rod a circle). The golf club, well the head came clean off and went flying.

Why are there no carbon cricket bats?
the ICC wont allow it, just like the stink they made when Ricky Ponting had the carbon strips glued to
the back of his bat
I've been riding other Renthal carbon bars for a year or two now with no problems and cranks for
many more, after seeing a couple of vids i'll reserve these bars for a Daisy Hill only bike if I ever
get around to making one even if they are Renthal and the 35mm version
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Dennis who @scblack? He stopped playing before I was old enough to understand. What was wrong with his aluminium bat? Would've sounded awful! I believe there is a similar ban in baseball.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
I think the risk is that where it has sharp edges on the damage, through the clear coat. It can lead to cracking or delamination of the fibre construction. probably less of an issue with UD carbon as there's not separate layers to peel off.
UD is actually worse, because any stress other than tensile is limited by the strength of the resin. UD will shred, where a woven layer will be self-reinforcing to an extent. All carbon composite parts are predominantly UD, because it does give the highest fibre (=strength):resin ratio; but they're laid with layers in different orientations to take different loads. Given enough impact, the resin between the fibres will split, and because the variously-oriented layes are overlaid & not interwoven, the resin will split between them too. The fibres will not necessarily break unless subjected to a very big load, but you'll be left with a very wobbly bunch of fibres.

My stunt kite uses pure UD spars for stiffness, but I had a hell of a problem with them splitting until I wrapped the ends with a dewoven strand of carbon fibre. Stopped the splitting in its tracks, and that's only wrapping 1" or so at each end.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
That's going to depend what your doing when it gives out. I'm talking along the lines of riding as per pics, thus my suggestion of xc use as ok.
The bar I "broke" let go while riding over a pair of rock roll-offs, three months after a crash, and nearly two years after another crash.... The composite failed in compression - the resin broke down, but the fibres remain largely intact, so it enabled me to carefully ride the 7km or so back to the car. It's obviously not on the bike any more, but I still have not managed to properly break the bar into separate bits.
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Just needs a bit of duck tape surely?

With the UD layers, is that set down like the ply of a skateboard deck?
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Typical tube layups will comprise a lengthwise layer for stiffness, a 90-degree hoop wrap to stop the tube ovalising and splitting under extreme bending loads, and left & right-wrap helical layers for torsional strength. Individual manufacturers will vary the thickness of the individual layers, and possibly add more in high-stress areas, but they're the basics. A woven layer is generally applied primarily for cosmetics, but as noted earlier, does add a bit of impact resistance due to the fibres bracing each other better; the trade-off is more resin than in a UD layer of equal fibre content.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
I was on a FSA K-Force bar.

I don't know the precise ins & outs of any manufacturers' layups, but they're all the same basic principle outlined above.
 

moorey

call me Mia
My mate @wozza had same bars with no visible damage. Riding down a You Yangs rock garden they clean snapped off at the shifter clamp.
There’s no way I’d ride those, @Hellyeah, your face is all you have going for you.
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
My mate @wozza had same bars with no visible damage. Riding down a You Yangs rock garden they clean snapped off at the shifter clamp.
There’s no way I’d ride those, @Hellyeah, your face is all you have going for you.
@Wozza. What bars? Any major crashes prior to the snap?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

moorey

call me Mia
@Wozza. What bars? Any major crashes prior to the snap?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
As stated, same Renthal carbon bar. @wozza isn't on here a lot, but hoping he chimes in.
No crashes from memory that hit it damaged bars, and before you ask, clamps not over tightened. Installed by big, well known shop.
 

flamin'trek

Likes Bikes and Dirt
You seem to be indicating you are going to recycle based on the pics. Can't recycle carbon in the yellow bin though.
 

Hellyeah

Likes Bikes and Dirt
My mate @wozza had same bars with no visible damage. Riding down a You Yangs rock garden they clean snapped off at the shifter clamp.
There’s no way I’d ride those, @Hellyeah, your face is all you have going for you.
sometimes it's like you look out for us...……..
.
.
FOR SALE, ever so slightly scratched carbon bars
 
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