In the stand if I spin the cranks backwards they spin just like any bike. Maybe they stop just a touch sooner but I was surprised I expected heaps more resistance. When I pissed the seals harp harp off its spins even better. No real world testing yet.@ozzybmx, are you still feeling the resistance in the idler as you pedal / back pedal?
Is it noticable as you're pedalling and climbing?
Mine was there for one ride then just disappeared completely.
Perfect outcome.Returned email at 21:40, 2 x new in-spec idlers on the way to me.
They identified this as an issue and all idlers now are within 16.991-17.002.
Happy with that.
No, because I have been running the loose idler.@ozzybmx, are you still feeling the resistance in the idler as you pedal / back pedal?
Is it noticable as you're pedalling and climbing?
Mine was there for one ride then just disappeared completely.
You’d nock that dick off with emery.No, because I have been running the loose idler.
I know what it can spin like with ceramic bearings and an idler spindle that doesn't deform the bearing. If I give it a flick without a chain fitted, it spins 3-4 times, absolute zero resistance.
The idler that came on the bike made the perfectly free spinning bearings notchy as soon as they were fitted.
My goal is free spinning and silent
I would think with an in spec idler, this would be very achievable.
The 'fat' idler only needs a bees dick taken off the bearing surface using a lathe to make it useable. The skinny one is ninja star use only.
5 inch grinder should do the trick!No, because I have been running the loose idler.
I know what it can spin like with ceramic bearings and an idler spindle that doesn't deform the bearing. If I give it a flick without a chain fitted, it spins 3-4 times, absolute zero resistance.
The idler that came on the bike made the perfectly free spinning bearings notchy as soon as they were fitted.
My goal is free spinning and silent
I would think with an in spec idler, this would be very achievable.
The 'fat' idler only needs a bees dick taken off the bearing surface using a lathe to make it useable. The skinny one is ninja star use only.
Spot on @Ultra Lord !You’d nock that dick off with emery.
Put it in the spinny boi and give it a good rub down.
No cliff top Tai Chi for you though…Spot on @Ultra Lord !
I made up a jig to hold the idler with the oversized spindle and allow me access to the bearing surfaces, put it in the drill and wrapped some emery over a little metal block. Sanded off the black ano and left it sitting at 17.00mm on the head.
Pressed on the ceramic bearings and they spun freely without the notchy feeling.
Back onto the bike and the idler spins freely, have now done 2 short rides with no noise
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Cheers @beebGotta say @ozzybmx - the whole package of your bike looks mint. I love the frame colour (suits the frame shape beautifully), and even the DVO green nano actually ties in nicely thanks to the OCD black (and white) everything else. Every time you post a pic I’m like “Damn that looks fresh!”.
I know how to bodge a machined part back within tolerance, don’t you worry about that.Spot on @Ultra Lord !
I made up a jig to hold the idler with the oversized spindle and allow me access to the bearing surfaces, put it in the drill and wrapped some emery over a little metal block. Sanded off the black ano and left it sitting at 17.00mm on the head.
Pressed on the ceramic bearings and they spun freely without the notchy feeling.
Back onto the bike and the idler spins freely, have now done 2 short rides with no noise
View attachment 382892
Very true, but needs more shots showing drive side for high idler goodnessGotta say @ozzybmx - the whole package of your bike looks mint. I love the frame colour (suits the frame shape beautifully), and even the DVO green anno actually ties in nicely thanks to the OCD black (and white) everything else. Every time you post a pic I’m like “Damn that looks fresh!”.
Time to put a ring on it;Been nearly a year since last post.
Bike still going strong and smooth after 18 months of ownership and 1750km on the clock
Had a bit of dropper ghosting on my last ride and pulled the dropper mid ride to find the whole dropper actuator was corroded, the cable was rusted stiff and it was really wet with condensation under the seatpost.
Remembered a post on the Deviate Clan FB page from a while back about the Highlander being super waterproof (to a fault) where there was no drain hole in the frame.
The Scottish and Euros were dealing with it fine as they are used to servicing bikes after wet rides, doing droppers, BB's and headsets.
Anyhow, my frame was visibly wet down around the BB area and even up the 'tube' that the dropper cable is routed down. The cable was rusted in the cable outer and the actuator was a mess.
Dropped the actuator into the cleaner for a couple of goes, brushing the gunge out between runs. Flushed out the frame with a hose and drained it out, now got a small fan blowing in there until tomorrow to completely dry it out.
Seems the water is getting down there from the dropper cable entry hole up near the headtube, it then runs down inside the tube and gathers near the BB. This then has nowhere to go as the frame is watertight with no drain holes. There may also be some running around the seatpost and causing the corrosion on the dropper post.
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The seatpost shaft of the dropper is also lumpy and corroded as the area cant get rid of water that gets in there.
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Seatpost servicing was still spot on, still lubed and clean from last service.
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Haven’t heard anything about that. I did notice the other day after giving my bike a bigger wash than usual that every time I used the dropper it blew air (or moisture) out of the dropper routing hole. So it’s obviously very well sealed except for that port.Jokes aside, I thought Deviate OK'd drilling a small hole under the BB? There was even a template from memory? @Jpez was this a thing you did or am I tripping balls?