Did you know...

kgunzer

kgunzer

Likes Dirt
that in place of LocTite 243 thread sealant, you can use the humble rubber glue used in patching tyres?

a bit messy to get on if you put on too much and kinda difficult to clean afterwards, but they work well to mechanically hold and (later contaminate the treads) the small non-load bearing bolts on your bike
 
...you can use a 26" tube on a 29er quite ok. It's a tiny stretch to fit but still works fine. I've used one for months and never had a puncture.
 
kgunz - yeh i've been doing this for years, especially with bolts n stuff for brakes. Dampens vibration & noise I reckon.
As for 'furter'-lising lawns, I piss off the verandah and ensure a liberal supply of dog shit.
 
Breathing in grips helps get them on. Don't rotoate grip on bar until it's had time to dry though. Say 20min to be safe.
I bit of dirt thrown on rotor will help bed in new pads and rotor.
Using a ring spanner to extend your rotor bolt tool will save your fingers/knuckles from getting cut when undoing the bolts.
Shortening your chain so you can't get big ring front, and big sprocket rear(a gear you don't neeed as it's a ratio already provided and the chain shouldn't be run at that angle anyway as it'll wear quicker)will reduce chain slapping about, and help keep it on. Just make sure you never go for the gear combo mentioned as you may rip of your mech.
Top cap can be removed once stem is done up, as it's only used to preload the bearings. So in effect your carrying a tool around. Handy to have in place though, so you can adjust on track if headset becomes loose. Just offering this knowledge as I have an old head lock(long bolt that goes through headtube)in my tool box to get headsets on if I don't have a star fangled nut yet for new forks.
Old seat posts and H-Bars make good levers for adding leverage to spanners or allen keys.
Talcum powder in tyre helps tube move about, and reduces rolling resistance.
You can usually patch punctured tubes and tyres.
You can have fun on any working bike.
Canola oil would last on your chain for one ride. A mate has been running it successfully in his chainsaw with pump slowed down. I've always been keen to try lanoline based oil.
Rubbing disk pads on smooth cement deglazes them. Works for me.
Running two joining links next to each other will give you a spare if you break a chain on the trail.
I'll try think of more. Great topic, keep em coming.
Sorry most of mine are handy tips, not strange facts. I'm bored sh!tless stuck at home due to rain.
 
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dilzy said:
Loctite is formulated to stop corrosion as well, don't be a tight arse.
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yeah but loctite doesn't get carried around in the pack most of the time... besides, once the rubber cement is neatly placed it's also an "anti-corossive agent"....

tought to clean with a toothbrush later on though...
 
A pair of old socks over your handle bars stops them and the levers/shifters getting scratched up in a packed trailer.
 
PSYCHO-T said:
Did you know using old motor oil is a great way to furterlise a lawn DO NOT DO THIS!
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Yeah, no...do you actually believe this?

We will know how smart you are based on your belief of this 'fact'

In a pinch you can get away with using cooking oil in a spray can as chain lube. I don't recommend it (especially if you run disc brakes as it's much easier to contaminate them than a rim ;) ) but if you have an old beater that is simply rooted and you want it a little better, then it works and is cheap. You'll need to reapply each ride though.

Another thing you can do yourself, which is far less 'cheap and shady' than my tip above, is create a mudguard with an old inner tube for your fork to prevent water and crud getting in your eyes in the wet.

Simply take a tube and cut it to length (you want it to go between the fork arch and crown: different length for each fork) then cut it down the middle so it's just a rectangular bit of rubber and no longer a section of tube. Cut some holes and fasten it with zip ties to your forks arch and crown. The best bet is to work out measurements on your own as there's no surefire way to get it all lined up ok..just have a crack and see what happens..

...I'd have one cranking right now as it's raining hard here but unfortunately you need brakes round here too and mine are shagged :(
 
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No Skid Marks said:
Breathing in grips helps get them on. Don't rotate grip on bar until it's had time to dry though. Say 20min to be safe.
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Spraying hair spray into grips is much better in my opinion. Slides on easy because it's wet and then dries, sticking the grip to the bar :)
 
Oh one more tip!!!

A cork placed on the bottom the steering tube where it joins the upper crown prevents contamination, grime and rust getting in the non-aluminum type steering tube :D

Works great on older steel and chro-moly type steerers
 
I have 2 pegs in my tool box. I use them when I'm putting a chain back on my bike.
Thread the chain through the rear dérailleur and put a peg on the chain with about 4-5 links poking out from the bottom jockey wheel.
Then thread the chain through your chain guide top guide, around the chain ring and through the lower chain guide pulley and then stick a peg on the chain after 4-5 links are through.
Now you can take your time connecting your chain with out worrying that is you accidentally let it go that it will run back through your dérailleur or chain guide.
This has saved me much anguish :cool:
 
kgunzer said:
Oh one more tip!!!

A cork placed on the bottom the steering tube where it joins the upper crown prevents contamination, grime and rust getting in the non-aluminum type steering tube :D

Works great on older steel and chro-moly type steerers
Click to expand...

Now that's a great idea, for ali tubes as well, just to stop the build up.
 
A small strip of newspaper works really well for creating a high friction surface for clamping carbon components such as seatposts or carbon bars.

Petrol is the best degreaser.

When you take your bike on a train, or you are chaining your bike up to a pole (especially on a hill), take a rubber band with you and use it to clamp the front brake lever down. It will stop the bike moving around and help keep it upright when leaning.

The easiest way to accurately align your bars is to align them with your fork crowns rather than using your front wheel as the reference.
 
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harmonix1234 said:
The easiest way to accurately align your bars is to align them with your fork crowns rather than using your front wheel as the reference.
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Hmmm, not with triple clamps, best to check they're not twisted by linning up a few different points, including drop outs.
Other ideas are good, keep em comingPeoples tool boxes are going to start looking funny with petrol, pegs, rubber bands, newspapers etc in them.
 
I wouldn't suggest petrol for de-greasing bearings or anything with rubber, as it may degrade the seals. Kero is the stuff to use.

Use a standard motor oil for lower lube. It's better for the purpose and it's cheap.
 
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