Easier gears for climbing

[pineapplehead]

Currently my lowest gear is 34 x 40.

I'm soft and this is too hard.

Price aside, am I better off getting a smaller chainring or a 42 cog?

Ta

 

[dynamitedread]

Chainring is cheaper than a cassette. Try a 30 tooth. I've been using a cheapo one from eBay and running fine. $20 something , cheap way to experiment.

 

[pineapplehead]

Price aside

Thanks, but I'm not asking which is a cheaper option. I'm asking about 'better', as in mechanically speaking.

 

[wkkie]

If your cassette is still ok, grab a chainring.

 

[The Reverend]

Personally, I feel it depends on how you want to make it easier, shifting your range, adding range or both.
1. Shifting your range - get a smaller front chain-ring. All climbing is easier but you spin out as you go faster. This might not be an issue for you.

2. Adding range - get a wider range cassette. If you're running 11-40 then you can run 11-46 (Sunrace) either 10sp or 11sp and you'll make the climbing easier without losing top speed on descents.

If you combine both you get the best of both worlds.

Hope this makes sense..?

 

[Oddjob]

If you're running 1x11 then 2x11 is mechanically better as it improves your chainline and gives you a wider range.

If you want to stick with 1x then consider dropping to 30 on the chainring. Big cassettes add a lot of unsprung weight and the trade off in top speed isn't worth it imo.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[John U]

How often do you spin out in top gear?

If virtually never then try a 30 or 32 on the front.

 

[Flow-Rider]

If you're running 1x11 then 2x11 is mechanically better as it improves your chainline and gives you a wider range.

If you want to stick with 1x then consider dropping to 34 on the chainring. Big cassettes add a lot of unsprung weight and your not going to spin out a 34x11 too often off road.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Yep 2x is way better in my opinion, I actually run a 22T chaining with a 36 cassette 2x on heavier bikes. I don't mind spinning and it saves my legs on the massive steep climbs.

 

[pineapplehead]

Thanks guys.

I'm sold on 1x. The clean lines and simplicity of it outweigh the marginal gearing gains for me.

I was considering a 42 tooth cog extender but I think a 30 tooth front will be simpler.

 

[pink poodle]

What is your chain grow going to be like going from top to bottom if you groe more teeth at the back? Nobody wants a floppy chain.

 

[pineapplehead]

Good thought.
Chain is spot on atm. Losing either 2 or 4 teeth up front will make it sloppier. Whether it necessitates removing 2 links or not in not sure - will just have to experiment with that

 

[creaky]

If cost is not a consideration then it's a no-brainer - wider range cassette.

Get a 10-42 or 11-44/46 if you're on Shimano.

Chainring swap is likely cheaper but you'll lose top end.

 

[pineapplehead]

To clarify, I'm not asking about cassettes. My top end is fine. My cassette is fine.

I was hoping to get some input on the mechanical loading differences between wrapping a chain around 30t/40t vs 34t/42t.

I'm not referring to gear inches. I'll sort that out.
Ive come across some thoughts that suggest there is a mechanical difference in terms of load on the chain, and that there is a preferable way to approach this.

Someone was writing about this recently on here but I can't find it for the life of me.

 

[DMan]

To clarify, I'm not asking about cassettes. My top end is fine. My cassette is fine.

I was hoping to get some input on the mechanical loading differences between wrapping a chain around 30t/40t vs 34t/42t.

I'm not referring to gear inches. I'll sort that out.
Ive come across some thoughts that suggest there is a mechanical difference in terms of load on the chain, and that there is a preferable way to approach this.

Someone was writing about this recently on here but I can't find it for the life of me.

Are you concerned you'll break the chain going from a 34 to a 30t? Or load the drive system?

 

[pineapplehead]

Are you concerned you'll break the chain going from a 34 to a 30t? Or load the drive system?

Not concerned. Just curious about the technical properties.

 

[DMan]

Not concerned. Just curious about the technical properties.

Ok. I went from a 32X42 to a 30t OvalX42. I love it and I climb a lot of techy loose steep pinches where we are. The 30t just gave me the edge to keep the traction down a bit easier and took some strain off my knees I found.

 

[pineapplehead]

Ok. I went from a 32X42 to a 30t OvalX42. I love it and I climb a lot of techy loose steep pinches where we are. The 30t just gave me the edge to keep the traction down a bit easier and took some strain off my knees I found.

Very tempted to try exactly this setup.

 

[Nautonier]

To clarify, I'm not asking about cassettes. My top end is fine. My cassette is fine.

I was hoping to get some input on the mechanical loading differences between wrapping a chain around 30t/40t vs 34t/42t.

I'm not referring to gear inches. I'll sort that out.
Ive come across some thoughts that suggest there is a mechanical difference in terms of load on the chain, and that there is a preferable way to approach this.

Someone was writing about this recently on here but I can't find it for the life of me.

Your top end will no longer be fine if you go to a 30t chain ring. I can't really see what the issue is; put on a 30t ring and you'll get that lower gear you wanted with no issues apart from having to remove 1 - 2 links from your existing chain and losing a bit of top end.

You said you're not interested in gear inches, but this chart spells it all out (and was the reason I went to Eagle from 32 x 46):

http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches

 

[pineapplehead]

Holy moly..

 

[creaky]

Currently my lowest gear is 34 x 40.

I'm soft and this is too hard.

Price aside, am I better off getting a smaller chainring or a 42 cog?

Ta

To clarify, I'm not asking about cassettes. My top end is fine. My cassette is fine.

I was hoping to get some input on the mechanical loading differences between wrapping a chain around 30t/40t vs 34t/42t.

I'm not referring to gear inches. I'll sort that out.
Ive come across some thoughts that suggest there is a mechanical difference in terms of load on the chain, and that there is a preferable way to approach this.

Someone was writing about this recently on here but I can't find it for the life of me.

You're asking what ? Half way through page 2 and you're now talking about load on the chain but your original issue (even thread title) was wanting an easier gear and asking if a smaller chainring or 42 tooth (cassette) cog is the bets way to go ....

Do you want to know if the chain will have a harder life one way or the other, or the effect on your suspension linkage ?