I posted a link recently in another thread with similar question. Chainring size can affect suspension kinematics. Depending on your frame design and whether you want better climbing or descending will determine the best solution if you want the mechanically superior option.
pretty much. As in, are there any opinions on the best way to go from a mechanical perspective.
It's a hardtail. I'm simply curious about the technical differences between going 30t ring/40t cog vs 32 ring/42t cog. I've heard there is a preferable way from an engineering point.
Now we're talking. Perhaps this was what I read but can no longer find...
I was reading an article a little while back talking about a mechanical advantage loss from chain angle on the smallest cogs in cassettes, starts getting noticeable below 12 teeth so once you are getting down in the 9 tooth cogs there is a substantial power transfer loss. Not sure if this is what you're referring to but cant see it making much difference at 30.
This is interesting. I have a bit of a climbing background, so I tend to wonder about things such as load, angles etc - not that I really have any detailed understanding of physics.
Did you read the article SlowManiac linked for you? It talks about the same principles and where the friction loss from cross chaining cancels out the advantage. Not much you can do about it with 1x but it might take the focus off your legs during your next big climb!
Yeah that was also interesting.
This might be the basis for those ridiculously expensive ceramic speed jockey wheels? Might even work but nobody will ever know at their pricing. My own irrelevant anecdotal experience with a 2x11 roadie on the trainer is the larger chainring feels smoother/more efficient with the same chainline at a given power level than the smaller one. But that's 52/36 vs 34/32 etc.
Nope, never. Good point though.
I don't think that's true?
Turn your wheel by grabbing it at a spoke near the hub flange, then again up near the rim. Its grossly exageratted, but the same principle applies for the chain rings.
That gives an example of the leverage applied to the chain, hence the reduction in chain tension. The crank length is unchanged so the leverage at the pedal is the same, the rider will not notice any difference.
No, not at all really. What would have an effect is the effective gear ratio. If you set a bike with 46front:46rear gears, and compare it to a bike set up with 20:20, there is absolutely ZERO difference in effort required, as the ratio for both is 1to1. As Andrew9 says, the smaller gears will have some extra tension, friction and wear due to the chain working around smaller cogs. But that's pretty minimal really.
This is correct.
