Giant XTC composite frame size??

Fifteen.Hundred

Likes Dirt
hmm ok thanks for the info. Don't suppose anyone knows how the 2 bikes compare weight wise?
Frame weights are approx 1050 grams for the SL & 1400 grams for the composite

Complete bike weights, about 9.8 for the SL & about 10.5 for the composite (both without pedals)

SRAM v Shimano components comes down to personal preference. Unfortunately you cannot mix & match shifters & Derauillers.

If you don't mind used, check the trading section, there is a Large Advanced SL1 with SRAM XX1 & Mavic wheels going for a good price.
 

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Cheers.

Not much in it weight wise in the sceam of things. Upgrading wheels on the composite might drop the weight a bit too closer to the advanced?

Ive always been a shimano/Fox man, so going SRAM and rockshox would be a learning curve.

I saw that one on here for sale. Looks good but not super keen on single chain ring (ie not fit enough) and its hard to look at that sort of coin 2nd hand when i could buy a new one for 3k. Even though that one has some nicer spec compnents on it like the wheels etc...
 

davnic74

Likes Bikes
Just wondering from people who have a 12/13 Giant XTC composite 29er hardtail, how tall are you and what size frame did you get? Looking at getting one of these and wondering if a Large is big enough for me @185cm??
I'm 182 cm and my bike is Med, love it feels perfect.
 

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Put a deposit down on a Large 2013 xtc advanced SL 1. Should be a nice upgrade from my 05 speacilized dually :rockon:
 

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Picked up the bike. Very happy, so light... yet to ride it though.

It came with the DT swiss tubeless conversion kits for the rims. I'm guessing i just run a strip of the backing tape first then put the tubeless rim strips in and the valves?
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
Picked up the bike. Very happy, so light... yet to ride it though.

It came with the DT swiss tubeless conversion kits for the rims. I'm guessing i just run a strip of the backing tape first then put the tubeless rim strips in and the valves?
Yes that's right. Valves last. Put a smear of silicon sealer around the valve stem. I found it worked quite well, the first time. Once you take that set of tyres off the rim strips may be cactus. Mine were all distorted and had moved. After that Gorilla tape FTW.

It's an excellent wheel set IMO. I upgraded the star ratchet to the DT Swiss 36 tooth unit for faster engagement. It's a quick and easy upgrade and it's cheap.
 
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Fifteen.Hundred

Likes Dirt
It's an excellent wheel set IMO. I upgraded the star ratchet to the DT Swiss 36 tooth unit for faster engagement. It's a quick and easy upgrade and it's cheap.
That upgrade used to be cheap, Around $30-40 online. Sadly DT Swiss seem to have tripled the price of late. An upgrade ratchet now goes close to $100....

Unless of course you know where to get them close to that old price...
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
That upgrade used to be cheap, Around $30-40 online. Sadly DT Swiss seem to have tripled the price of late. An upgrade ratchet now goes close to $100....

Unless of course you know where to get them close to that old price...
Darn. You're right. I paid $36 earlier this year. That's not right.
 

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Yes that's right. Valves last. Put a smear of silicon sealer around the valve stem. I found it worked quite well, the first time. Once you take that set of tyres off the rim strips may be cactus. Mine were all distorted and had moved. After that Gorilla tape FTW.

It's an excellent wheel set IMO. I upgraded the star ratchet to the DT Swiss 36 tooth unit for faster engagement. It's a quick and easy upgrade and it's cheap.

Having a barstard of a time getting the rear to seal up. I bought a Maxxis Ikon TR tyre for the back and left the standard racing ralph on the front. The RR on the front has sealed up spot on, lost fa air. The rear keeps going down... took it for a good 30k ride in the hope that would help, had to stop 5 times and pump it back up. When fitting the DT swiss tubeless kit i even went to the trouble of doing what some blokes on here recommend and put a tube in pumped up overnight, with the new Maxxis tyre to help everything stick down nicely in place and the tyre shape up before i put the stans fluid in.

Any tips?
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
You need to check where it's leaking from. Pump it up and get some soapy water. I'd check the valve first. Did you put any silicon sealer on it?
It also could be the tyre. I've had TR tyres take days to seal.
 

Fifteen.Hundred

Likes Dirt
Funnily enough i had a similar issue with my rear tyre on this exact same bike. It looked like it was leaking from the velve seal. In my bag of goodies supplied with the bike came a second set of tubeless valves (with removable valve core) i put this on and so far so good. Might be worth a try for you.
 

spiderpig

Likes Dirt
Leak checked the wheel and a small amount of air was coming out of a couple of spokes... Pulled tyre off and looks like the DT swiss tubeless rim strip had moved to one side. Does the rim tape look wide enough? Is it suppose to be wide enough on both sides so the tyre bead squeezes it against the bead/locking edge on the rim on both sides?
Options from here?? Gorilla tape and get rid of the DT swiss tubeless rim strip??



 

Fifteen.Hundred

Likes Dirt
I used the yellow tape supplied with the bike not the red dt Swiss tape you have used. Everything has now settled for me after a bit of leaking initially.
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
The red dt Swiss strips do come with the bike.
And I had the same issue with the tape moving and leaking a little from spoke holes. I pissed it off and went Gorilla tape.
 
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