Hacks
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dazz
Downhill Dazz
Upgrade time! Don't see why it wouldn't work equally well for blinds
My new invention. Bicycle powered garage door opener | Dustin Reedy | Dustin Reedy · Original audio
My new invention. Bicycle powered garage door opener. Dustin Reedy · Original audio
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beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Missing some spacers from your M8120 cranks?
In my case it's matchy-matchy and everything.
The spacers are 1.5mm thick each, but there is a bit of free-play around the cranks as the ID is -25mm, so the spacers do need to be preloaded very lightly then tapped about so they're concentric - but they just clear the outer race of the BB and are the perfect thickness. Even the stock Shimano "safety tab" dropped into place like normal.
In my case it's matchy-matchy and everything.
The spacers are 1.5mm thick each, but there is a bit of free-play around the cranks as the ID is -25mm, so the spacers do need to be preloaded very lightly then tapped about so they're concentric - but they just clear the outer race of the BB and are the perfect thickness. Even the stock Shimano "safety tab" dropped into place like normal.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Genuine Bicycle brand cards I trust?
teK--
Eats Squid
Yeah picked up some Abbey Tools ones on special. $199 for the deck!Genuine Bicycle brand cards I trust?
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
So matchy I didn't notice!Missing some spacers from your M8120 cranks?
View attachment 398023
In my case it's matchy-matchy and everything.
View attachment 398022
The spacers are 1.5mm thick each, but there is a bit of free-play around the cranks as the ID is -25mm, so the spacers do need to be preloaded very lightly then tapped about so they're concentric - but they just clear the outer race of the BB and are the perfect thickness. Even the stock Shimano "safety tab" dropped into place like normal.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Was struggling a lot with my new(ish) fork today. It'd never really felt as good as the previous one I had.
But then I remembered something I discovered by accident with my previous Z1.
If you turn the compression damper dial fully open, remove the dial, turn the dial (while disconnected from the fork) 1/8th of a turn clockwise (it fits onto an octagonal shaft on top of the damper), reinstall the dial again, and twist the dial back to the open position - all of a sudden it's actually "Open" and not "Says it's Open but actually still has a fair whack of LSC stuck on".
Not really sure why they send them out like this from factory, as twisting the dial to fully closed even after the adjustment will still provide nearly total lockout of the fork.
But then I remembered something I discovered by accident with my previous Z1.
If you turn the compression damper dial fully open, remove the dial, turn the dial (while disconnected from the fork) 1/8th of a turn clockwise (it fits onto an octagonal shaft on top of the damper), reinstall the dial again, and twist the dial back to the open position - all of a sudden it's actually "Open" and not "Says it's Open but actually still has a fair whack of LSC stuck on".
Not really sure why they send them out like this from factory, as twisting the dial to fully closed even after the adjustment will still provide nearly total lockout of the fork.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Was struggling a lot with my new(ish) fork today. It'd never really felt as good as the previous one I had.
But then I remembered something I discovered by accident with my previous Z1.
If you turn the compression damper dial fully open, remove the dial, turn the dial (while disconnected from the fork) 1/8th of a turn clockwise (it fits onto an octagonal shaft on top of the damper), reinstall the dial again, and twist the dial back to the open position - all of a sudden it's actually "Open" and not "Says it's Open but actually still has a fair whack of LSC stuck on".
Not really sure why they send them out like this from factory, as twisting the dial to fully closed even after the adjustment will still provide nearly total lockout of the fork.
That’s the grip damper. It’s an undocumented feature.
The fox grip damper service instructions don’t cover this. The first grip damper I rebuilt, for DMan, suffered from this. You have to reclock the adjustment knob, as you did, to gain fully open, minimal LSC.
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
On Fox too ?
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Yep.
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
Me too... later when I get home, I still own at least 2 Grip damper forks, possibly 3.
A Fox factory fork on a past bike was the most over damped piece of shit ever, wondering after sending it to NSD for a Push ACS conversion and service if they would have checked for this secret feature or just screwed the knob back on where the screw mark was.
It was still a POS when I sold it on my Santa Cruz.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Was that one of the older Fit-4 dampers?
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
Hmmm... could have been actually.
Jpez
Down on the left!
Have you got a hack to stop the bottle wobbling around on the plastic mount fixed to the bottle?
It’s the one annoying aspect to these. Otherwise they’re great. Especially the cap that keeps the crud out.
teK--
Eats Squid
I haven't had that problem yet but can imagine it might become looser over time. Maybe a strip of gaffa tape between the mount and the bottle will pull it together?
Jpez
Down on the left!
Yeah I’ve found the plastic softens over time especially when it’s warm and it loosens up and jiggles. Done the gaffa thing. It’s probably no big deal but my noise OCD zeros straight in on it.