Lights for night riding
- Thread starter lachieeaton
- Start date
link1896
Mr Greenfield
No, an xml2 in crap colour binning is about 1050 lumens at full rated current. Heat sinking limitation alone prevent these power levels.
So claiming 1800 lumens from said LED chip is just bogus.
teK--
Eats Squid
Well that is just next level fakery then!
Got mine from Bikebug, when they were on sale for around 25-30% off.
CRC had them on sale around the same prices too (maybe 10bux cheaper) just prior to when i purchased mine, thankfully i missed out with CRC (sold out in 24hrs) as the lights from Bikebug are proper AU stock so no hassles with the chargers and local warranty.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
No different grading, Lumens are Lumens, it's just that some sellers flat-out lie about the output. I can't remember where, but I read an article a while ago about this stuff, and one of the points made noted that at absolute peak circuit efficiency, high-output LED emitters max out at about 1700Lm, and anyone who claims their lights put out more is spinning bullshit.
Secondly, Lumens is a pretty crude measure, as it's simply a measure of the quantity of light being produced, and takes no consideration of the effect of any optics to focus and concentrate the beam. If you have, for example, two identical emitters each producing 1000 Lumens, one just the emitter out in the open with no optics behind it, the other with optics to fosus the light, the visible outputs will be very different. The raw emitter will throw its light output in all directions; this dispersal will result in very low intensity of light and lack of brightness.
Stick some optics behind the emitter and instead of being spread all over the place, the light is focused into a narrower field. The tighter the beam focus, the more concentrated the light output is, therefore it will appear as a much "brighter" light, even though it's exactly the same output as the unfocused light. Kind of like a kilo of lead in one hand and a kilo of feathers in the other; the lead is a much more concentrated mass, so will have the perception of being heavier than the feathers, even though it's exactly the same weight.
A more useful but little-used measure of light output is Lux, which takes the beam focus into consideration because it measures the intensity of the light output, not just the total output.
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
Anyone use Gloworm?
https://www.glowormlites.co.nz/product/2018-gloworm-alpha/
I'm looking for a replacement for the Ay-Ups I killed.....
https://www.glowormlites.co.nz/product/2018-gloworm-alpha/
I'm looking for a replacement for the Ay-Ups I killed.....
Had an old (2013/14 model I think) Gloworm 1200 in the past, worked well, good beam pattern and light, had the battery die on me but was replaced, good lights for the money. Using Exposure now, pricey but fantastic lights.
Daniel Hale
She fid, he fid, I fidn't
A mate has the next model up -really good light output..i was in front of him tues night on a grave rd & i thought a car was coming it was that bright
JPG
Likes Bikes
Hey Travis, just following up on this as I am keen on the jump to single unit lights - did you look at 2 helmet lights (maybe two joysticks) as an option ?
Is the Diablo a significant advantage in beam over the Joystick (1.5hour rated on 1000lm) ?
Cheers - Paul
bear the bear
Is a real bear
The current diablo is rated at 1500lm so ~ 50% more.
A standard setup is 1x bar and 1x helmet light, but it depends on where you live. For example, flat, open minimal trees you could get away with a single bar light. Super tight, twisty, tree enclosed and a helmet light would be all you need as a bar light would be pointed off trail too much. However the general reason for running two lights is redundancy if one fails.
bear the bear
Is a real bear
For those that are interested check out http://reviews.mtbr.com/2016-lights-shootout-how-to-pick-the-right-light They have a yearly light review.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Without diving deeply into colour science and the associated maths, "white" LEDs are fundamentally flawed. The current generation of high brightness white LEDs are a ultraviolet or blue LED junction. The UV or blue is passed through a surface with a phosphorus coating, which when exposed to UV or blue, converts this into visible wavelengths, but is a loooooong way from the mix of colours, or spectrum, from the sun.
Millions of years of evolution in humans have our eyes very well adapted to seeing things under sun light. White LEDs are not natural. You'll notice a lot of green spectrum missing from LEDs.
If you look at a high end aquarium LED light, it runs a mixture of white, green and red LEDs to get a closer approximation to sun light to make coral and fish appear more natural.
Millions of years of evolution in humans have our eyes very well adapted to seeing things under sun light. White LEDs are not natural. You'll notice a lot of green spectrum missing from LEDs.
If you look at a high end aquarium LED light, it runs a mixture of white, green and red LEDs to get a closer approximation to sun light to make coral and fish appear more natural.
