Mt Zoon Carbon Bars Snapped - Replacements?

moorey

moorey

call me Mia
AaronJ said:
Thanks Moorey. You've been a help this and many times in the past!

Matt (who I believe is member here) has the bars on the way to me already and was a total legend to deal with. Hopefully back on the Ripley by Thursday!!
Click to expand...
Awesome to hear. I would have grabbed them if you didn’t. Stoked you did. :D
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
frenchman said:
I’ll rephrase that.
I’m running renthal alloy bars and stem currently but I wouldn’t buy another renthal product again. The bars are overpriced and the stems creak. Yes I was stupid enough to buy 2 stems and bars.
Click to expand...
The Renthal bars were the go to stuff for Moto in the 80s and 90s, you'd think they would be able to make a set of bars by now. One thing with carbon though is that you need to file or sand all the sharp edges or corners off on anything that comes into contact with it.
 
Boom King

Boom King

downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
moorey said:
Bars creak? No.
Renthal stems creak? Shit yeah. I’ve tried 2, duo and apex, both creaked. Science, bitch!
Can often pick a rider with a Renthal stem before I see them.
Click to expand...
Mine don't creak, unless my own personal creaking cancels them out....

Sent from my SM-G960N using Tapatalk
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
My Renthal Apex stem does creak, haven't noticed any issue with a mate's setup though...
 
frenchman

frenchman

Eats cheese. Sells crack.
Flow-Rider said:
The Renthal bars were the go to stuff for Moto in the 80s and 90s, you'd think they would be able to make a set of bars by now. One thing with carbon though is that you need to file or sand all the sharp edges or corners off on anything that comes into contact with it.
Click to expand...
Their alloy bars are ok. But I wouldn’t spend the extra $50 when the nukeproof bars are equally as good.
 
Ultra Lord

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Some light greasing of the mating surfaces on renthal stems silences any creaks. Like the parts on the bar clamps that sit flush with the rest of the stem (I never greased the bars) and a little bit around the steerer (I do this with all my stems).
Never had a creak once I did this. You need to clean the stem and bars when making any adjustments to stop dirt and dust getting into places it shouldn't when you loosen things off.
Nice looking stems, I rate them.
 
ForkinGreat

ForkinGreat

Knows his Brassica oleracea
frenchman said:
Buy a 7000 series alloy bar and replace every 2 years. The Nukeproof series from Chainreaction are good value.

I’m running renthal alloy bars and stem currently but I wouldn’t buy another renthal product again. They creak and are overpriced.

As for carbon bars, this was the second setI’ve had break. First broken bars were Easton, although that was damage from a vehicle.
View attachment 365841
Click to expand...
@Mywifesirrational mentioned over-tightening of stems, grips, shifters, or brakes could cause weakness. He suggested carbon assembly paste on stem/bars clamp area, plumbers tape under shifter and brake clamps, and only tightening enough so that they don't shift around, but will move if bumped in a crash. only tightening the stem to torque spec is helpful.

not suggesting that some carbon isn't poo, just that many people overtighten components to carbon bars.

Lite versions of carbon bars are probably not the best idea.
 
frenchman

frenchman

Eats cheese. Sells crack.
Ultra Lord said:
Some light greasing of the mating surfaces on renthal stems silences any creaks. Like the parts on the bar clamps that sit flush with the rest of the stem (I never greased the bars) and a little bit around the steerer (I do this with all my stems).
Never had a creak once I did this. You need to clean the stem and bars when making any adjustments to stop dirt and dust getting into places it shouldn't when you loosen things off.
Nice looking stems, I rate them.
Click to expand...
But renthal explicitly say
“Ensure all sharp edges and burrs are removed from the steerer tube and the external surface is both clean and dry.”

Coming up with fixes for their shitty engineering and still championing the product is why they keep putting this dogshit out every year. Sure, if it was on the same level as cheap Funn stem you’d accept it. But these are marketed as a premium product for dentists. And dentists require good tools.
 
Ultra Lord

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
frenchman said:
But renthal explicitly say
“Ensure all sharp edges and burrs are removed from the steerer tube and the external surface is both clean and dry.”

Coming up with fixes for their shitty engineering and still championing the product is why they keep putting this dogshit out every year. Sure, if it was on the same level as cheap Funn stem you’d accept it. But these are marketed as a premium product for dentists. And dentists require good tools.
Click to expand...
Cleaning and greasing mating surfaces isn’t exactly coming up with a fix, it’s common sense. Like using plumbers tape on bars were the levers go. It’ll work with or without.

The apex stem I have is more impressively made than the burgtec one I’m running. I couldn’t order an apex in 50mm when I needed one, hence the burgtec. Which is a nice stem too, but not AS nice.

Cool you don’t like renthal. Vote with your wallet. What I posted might help somebody with a creaky stem and stop them spending money they don’t need to over a small problem.
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
frenchman said:
Coming up with fixes for their shitty engineering and still championing the product is why they keep putting this dogshit out every year. Sure, if it was on the same level as cheap Funn stem you’d accept it.
Click to expand...
Funny you should mention that - I replaced my Renthal Apex with a Funn Styrge (both 60mm) and it's been great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top