Post your all mountain bike

Wombatone

Wombatone

Likes Dirt
crank1979 said:
Matching Levs!



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Is this a Nicolai with a G-Box?
Always wanted to try one of these.
What is your experience with the G-box ?
Would be great to hear from someone who has ridden this thing, is it worth the extra expense?

The Nicolai without the G-box is awesome enough , nice ride.
 
donthucktoflat

donthucktoflat

Eats Squid
scblack said:
I think I said it before in here - go Tubeless!

I have had tubeless on my Intense since August and it makes a HUGE difference. Lighter, better feel than tubed, and I think just rides way better.
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It still shocks me when people run tubes in their build threads. Best invention since pneumatic tyres
 
scblack

scblack

Leucocholic
donthucktoflat said:
It still shocks me when people run tubes in their build threads. Best invention since pneumatic tyres
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Now I've done it I agree with you. Even my roadie is tubeless now, but it definitely needs the right rims. Has to be tubeless specific for a roadie.

I THINK its familiarity and understanding how its works as to why some people don't do it.

Maybe some people have burping issues or rolling off rims for a reason not to, but other than that - just do it!
 
BT180

BT180

Max Pfaff
I've still got tubes. I haven't converted to tubeless for no particular reason other than what I have works. :) Not sure if my current E220 rims could go tubless anyway.

I guess if I ever upgrade my bike and my new bikes comes with tubeless then I'll be converted!
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
My rear on the new Trek is tubeless and I think I can notice the difference. Today on a quick blat a couple of times I would have expected the rear to bounce/skip sideways but it held on. I'll prob get it on the front soon as well, but want to hang in the workshop and watch so I can take care of it myself next time, given that it's about a $40 conversion.....
 
cokeonspecialtwodollars

cokeonspecialtwodollars

Fartes of Portingale
johnny said:
My rear on the new Trek is tubeless and I think I can notice the difference. Today on a quick blat a couple of times I would have expected the rear to bounce/skip sideways but it held on. I'll prob get it on the front soon as well, but want to hang in the workshop and watch so I can take care of it myself next time, given that it's about a $40 conversion.....
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Some of that extra traction can be attributed to the ABP rear end on your Trek. As for $40 tubeless conversion I hope that's parts and labour not just labour.
 
Knuckles

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
cokeonspecialtwodollars said:
As for $40 tubeless conversion I hope that's parts and labour not just labour.
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Seconded. Apart from removing the wheel from the bike, the most labour intensive it gets is getting the first bead over the rim, and that's dependant on the tyre (Schwalbe are notoriously difficult, Maxxis are a piece of piss). After that if you have a compressor and removable valve cores the rest could be done by a six year old (my kid insisted on having a go, he loved the BANG when the beads seated).

FYI, the front I did leaked the first time, the rear didn't. Little shit still reminds me at random times.
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
cokeonspecialtwodollars said:
Some of that extra traction can be attributed to the ABP rear end on your Trek. As for $40 tubeless conversion I hope that's parts and labour not just labour.
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I was kind of comparing the difference to riding the same bike with tubes/tubeless. Although I've only had the bike for a short time, so I could just be kidding myself.

Yeah, it was the all up cost - $19 for the rim tape stuff, $8 for the valve and about $10 for the sealant. So just under $40 and no other charges, so I guess it included labour. That's why I want to be shown how it's all done with the front wheel so I can do it all myself next time, because if I'm cool with it I'll gradually change all my bikes toobless.
 
Rutter

Rutter

Likes Bikes and Dirt
mr636 said:
SO many awesome bikes in this thread.
That GT looks like an awesome rig. Was that a custom build, or just factory and upgraded?
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Factory and swapped out bits from new as the next one up was not available in my size. Super pleased with it just hard trying to find time to ride it!
 
Beej1

Beej1

Senior Member
johnny said:
That's why I want to be shown how it's all done with the front wheel so I can do it all myself next time, because if I'm cool with it I'll gradually change all my bikes toobless.
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The videos have changed sometime in the past year, but all I did was just watch the Stans NoTubes "How To" vids and followed their steps exactly. Once you've done it once, you get faster. The new vids are roughly the same:
1. How to mount their rim tape: http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter/videopopup.php?id=6
2a. How to mount a tyre onto Stans rims using only Stans rim tape: http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter/videopopup.php?id=5 (I use option the second option for adding the sealant ... the injector is overkill IMO)
2b. How to mount a tyre onto non-Stans rims using Stans rim strip: http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter/videopopup.php?id=3

Vid 2a is exactly how I set up my 29er wheels since I used Stans Flow rims.

For my SC Nomad, which has Easton Havoc wheelset, I followed Vid 2b (after first installing their rim tape like in vid 1). The rim strip beefed out the channel of my rims making the tyre seat a bit tighter before inflating. Personally I didn't bother drilling out the rim - the valve part sits up a little, but it didn't affect inflating. I ran my Eastons with Minion DHF Exo 2.5s for 2 full years (including 5 week trip through US) before I got a puncture that didn't fill itself with sealant. I've since been told it's wise to top the sealant up perhaps every 9 - 12 months. Depeinding on your rim make/model, you may need different rim strips. I emailed Stans directly and they replied quite fast telling me Stans Rhynolite strips worked best in Easton Havoc wheels.

My 29er wheels are 12 months with zero fails.
 
Bodin

Bodin

GMBC
Johnny - if you're not already doing so, I thoroughly recommend using the Bontrager rim strips that should work perfectly with your Bontrager rims. I've run every imaginable tubeless system since I first converted back in 2004 and this is the easiest and most reliable in my experience.

I had mine fitted at the Trek dealer I bought my Fuel from (www.mymountain.com.au) and they've needed zero attention since I rolled it out of the shop. They just don't lose air with the XR3 tyres that came stock on the bike.

I literally didn't touch a pump the entire week that I was in Rotorua a few weeks ago. With the ever-reliable XT group on it, it's as close as you can get to a zero-maintenance bike. I just grab it off the hook in my garage, go riding and spend 60 seconds making sure all the bolts are still in the right places before I hang it back up.
 
C

Capt.Gumby

Likes Dirt
+1 for the Bontrager (Trek) plastic rim strip. By far the easiest (simplest) system, sealed tyres first time with my dodgey floor pump without Stans as I gave it go thinking it wouldn't bead and would spill and waste the Stans.
 
Rabble bukes

Rabble bukes

Likes Dirt
You'd think trek would supply the rim strips on their bikes. The bontrager wheels that came on my bike, rhythm elites, are said to be 'tubeless ready' but without the rim strips they aint. On a $4000+ bike, surely a couple of cheap rim strips wouldnt hurt?
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Yeah, I'm not sure what Trek thinks "tubeless ready" means but it looked like a normal rim setup to me.
 
mshagg

mshagg

Likes Bikes
Do any bikes actually come without tubes? I dont think the bonty rim strip setup will take a tube with the strip installed.

+1 for the setup though. Ran UST tyres on my dusters with the rim strips, absolutely flawless. Easy to install, easy to set the bead with a pump. No adhesive to worry about. Surprised other manufs havent followed suit.
 
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