Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

binner

Hath shat hymself
Ride don't slide

Thanks dude! Really happy with how it looks now. The ride's pretty rough, like an unladen ute in the rear, bit softer up front and feels responsive in the corners. Definitely finding the worst of Sydney's roads now. Potholes are easy enough to avoid, but those concrete slab style roads are horrible to drive on. Have a clunk coming from the front when turning the steering wheel at low speeds, so CV joints might be binding at this height. Will see if raising it another 1cm stops that or not.

Here's another shot.
Thought you would of said that about the ride quality, I see so many fast boys creeping over speed bumps and trying to get up gutters because they have dumped too much. By how much did you lower the ride, looks pretty drastic from the photos.

When I reset my torsion bars on the zombi I actually went higher to make it stand tall. Chest out looking big :pirate:
 

binner

Hath shat hymself
Good info

From my experience in a motorcycle workshop, the K&N has the best flow short of chucking your filter completely. Careful oiling of the filter (as Redbruce said) is essential to protect your engine. Looking at your work, the kind of attention to detail you show is more than sufficient to ensure the job is done correctly.
Thanks for all the info, proll the best and informative replies in a thread on here rather than the bullshit I read in other places. I might just do some research about foam V cotton/mesh and see what I can find.

I have noticed since replacing the rockers with ratio rockers I get a lil bit more valve/pushrods/rocker noise but it still giddy ups! :whoo:
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Thought you would of said that about the ride quality, I see so many fast boys creeping over speed bumps and trying to get up gutters because they have dumped too much. By how much did you lower the ride, looks pretty drastic from the photos.

When I reset my torsion bars on the zombi I actually went higher to make it stand tall. Chest out looking big :pirate:
Yeah, those pics are pretty much as low as it can go without axles hitting the chassis. Oil pan was 7cm off the ground and rear tyres scrubbing with no load. I'm not really interested in being part of the racer boy scene, low and slow is the name of the game. The Mk2's my daily, but I love working on it because I love being a part of the VW culture, much like yourself, we're a special breed, :party: Didn't measure fender to ground before and after, but I'd say it was dumped around 3 inches.

I'm raising it a little again this morning before I take it to get a wheel alignment, trying to find the balance between looks and comfort :third:
 

Bjorn

Likes Dirt
Thanks for all the info, proll the best and informative replies in a thread on here rather than the bullshit I read in other places. I might just do some research about foam V cotton/mesh and see what I can find.

I haabsolutely every last ponyced since replconvenient he rockers with ratio rockers I get a lil bit more valve/pushrods/rocker noise but it still giddy ups! :whoo:
Found a dyno test of a CF Moto 650 in the latest AMCN and the chart bears out my previous statements. However, with the stock filter it makes 39.30kw, a foam type 39.83kw, a fabric type 40.34kw and no filter 41.47kw. The numbers are not huge, so, unless you are chasing absolutely every last pony (as I do for the sake of my ego); go with the most convenient filter.
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
Found a dyno test of a CF Moto 650 in the latest AMCN and the chart bears out my previous statements. However, with the stock filter it makes 39.30kw, a foam type 39.83kw, a fabric type 40.34kw and no filter 41.47kw. The numbers are not huge, so, unless you are chasing absolutely every last pony (as I do for the sake of my ego); go with the most convenient filter.
Pretty much as I remember the relative performance. While difference gets bigger with higher power engines (basically due to higher airflow) the trade off is always filtering/service cycle.

In my experience foam, if properly prepared (and this is actually harder than for oiled cotton) is fine, but has a shorter service cycle than oiled cotton and loses flow more quickly with dust build up. I used to work on a lot of rally cars back in the day fitted with foam cleaners and there was always fine dust/grit in the barrel of the carbs on those. I consider it a last resort when nothing else will fit the available space.

More recent testing on VFR Honda's (one of my "other" bikes - slightly modified VFR 800) has shown the OEM paper filter flows as well as any aftermarket (effective) filter. BUT, It lacks the "cool" factor, AND costs about the same in terms of "whole of service life" for those of us that don't turnover a bike every other year (mine has 260,000K on it of which I have done 230,000+k over 13 years), thus to an extent, de-buncking the "cheaper than OEM" replacement argument so often used when the objective evidence is presented.

I spent a lot of time with John Bennett (originally of Head Mod fame, which spawned the Crankshaft rebuilders in Kew and HM headers, and....,a number of other now well known busineses from the ashes when he broke up the business in the 70's) during the 80's watching his analytical and objective testing of everything performance automotive. It was an eye opener to see what actually made a difference and what didnt (like far too many of the speed components on the market). He also introduced me to flow benches, stress plate cylinder honing and careful, step validated blueprint engine building with dynomometer validation of cylinder flow testing.
We used a leak down test of each cylinder to verify perfect ring sealing, before, final assembly. If it wasn't, it got pulled down and rings (and valves if required) re lapped. His race engines were performance characterised on the engine dyn (under controlled conditions) and then re tested in the car on a rolling road. If the installed engine didn't make the power achieved on the engine dyn, the installation was methodically reviewed and modified until it did. This analytical approach and attention to detail was unheard of at the time (but allowed/maybe together with a holistic engineering approach of the car (arguably)' Moffat to become a legend in the Coke, later Brut 33 Mustang.

A fitter and turner by training (but clearly with a deeper and more intellectual engineering insight), John is a bit of an unsung and (for some) forgotten hero of the Australian performance and racing scene from the 60's on. This gives you some idea:

http://www.ozlaverda.com/australia-s-quickest-chair-dpa-laverda-t59.html

http://www.ozlaverda.com/john-bennett-head-mod-engine-development-t97.html


At the time he was pretty much the only guy running air filters on race engines. The prevailing philosophy of the day was filters cost horsepower, John contends that the dust ingested while racing had a far bigger impact on performance over a race (and proved it with many before and after engine testing on a controlled enviro dyno). His engines not only finished as strong as they started, they also went a whole season with only oil changes between races on class leading engines. At the time he also was the only guy in town that regularly calibrated his dyno (and ran them under controlled conditions) so he could compare performance over time on a standardised basis.

Oh and check out the 10,000rpm from a ford 144ci engine (yes the one std in the 1963/4 XL/XM falcons) John built in that second link. The old 144 was an interesting design, light (hollow crank and cam) and compact (2.4L 6 cyl). John machined off the built in inlet manifold, fabricated one to take triple weber carbs, modified the head flow, balanced and blueprinted it designed and built a work of art exhaust manifold. From memory it made around 250 hp, on modified std components . Didn't just make the hairs on your back stand up' as jump off! Went into a fairly stock early Corolla van where it became rather notorious in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne, and beyond!!!

I have lost track of John over the years but after recounting the stories to my son recently have begun chasing up his whereabouts.

Have only come up with this so far:

http://www.bennettclayton.com.au/

If there are any old petrol heads that are in contact with John still, I'd appreciate some contact details (by PM).
 
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Bjorn

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the links Redbruce.
People like John Bennett, who put in the time to deeply understand how an engine performs and then conduct empirical testing to see what is real and what is myth, impress me no end.
I figure the K&N filter in my old Gixxer doesn't hurt performance any and coupled with a much less restrictive exhaust, lets it breathe as best it can. The throttle response of the GSX 1100 mill was certainly better in the 750 chassis with the filter and exhaust, than it was in the original package. Of course there are a few other variables at play in that situation.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Here's how the GTI sits now, think I've got the ride height dialled now.
 

Beej1

Senior Member
Here's how the GTI sits now, think I've got the ride height dialled now.
That looks awesome. VW Golf's look so ordinary nowdays compared to Mk1's and these.

But as much as I love a nice ground-hugging setup like this, I imagine it can be pretty harsh yeah? And speedhumps/driveways would be a PITA?
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
That looks awesome. VW Golf's look so ordinary nowdays compared to Mk1's and these.

But as much as I love a nice ground-hugging setup like this, I imagine it can be pretty harsh yeah? And speedhumps/driveways would be a PITA?
Thanks mate, yeah, not a fan of the new ones either, prefer air-cooled VWs and anything up to Mk3.

Its pretty harsh in the rear, so I have to go slow over bumps, but it clears speed bumps and driveways fine, you just can't rocket over them. It would probably ride a lot better with better quality coilovers too.
 

Beej1

Senior Member
Its pretty harsh in the rear, so I have to go slow over bumps, but it clears speed bumps and driveways fine, you just can't rocket over them. It would probably ride a lot better with better quality coilovers too.
I work across the road from a guy in Collingwood who spent some unimaginable amount of money restoring an old garage with polished stone floors containing pressure sensors, (probably equally expensive) art around the walls on the inside, a wicked looking bar at the back and remote control bollards at the entrance, all to house what I would estimate to be close to $5 million worth of cars wearing about $2 million worth of rego plates (he has 111, 222, 333, 1111, 2222 etc).

There's an original Maclaren F1, several Porshces, few Rollers & Bentleys, some wicked prototype-looking enormous modern mad-max-esque motorbike, a few tidy Mercs & Beamers.

One of the Porches is an orange GTS3RS. He slowly backs it out of his very shallow driveway then parks in the street, and while the door is closing and the bollards are rising I'm pretty sure he re-lowers the suspension with a wireless remote control.

You could always run one of those setups in your Golf if you wanted to go lower. I'm sure it's pretty cheap ;)
 

hazza6542

Eats Squid
Installing a vintage speed exhaust on the 61 beetle now, will edit later with some pics. No more rusted out hotdog muffler. Deletes the heat transfer pipes as well, a lot cleaner and should make it breathe a bit easier as well as make it easier to drop on it's arse. Questions for anyone who might have an idea about it, on the muffler itself there are two bolts with 12mm threads into either side of the muffler which don't connect to anything. Silly as it sounds, for making it louder when we feel like it?
 

binner

Hath shat hymself
Installing a vintage speed exhaust on the 61 beetle now, will edit later with some pics. No more rusted out hotdog muffler. Deletes the heat transfer pipes as well, a lot cleaner and should make it breathe a bit easier as well as make it easier to drop on it's arse. Questions for anyone who might have an idea about it, on the muffler itself there are two bolts with 12mm threads into either side of the muffler which don't connect to anything. Silly as it sounds, for making it louder when we feel like it?
Hey fella, that's for O2 sensors if you run them, I have a VS kit on my zombi but after a year the welds have fatigued and I had to reweld some ports and the brace between the muffler and tailpipe.
Overall a pretty good unit and way cheaper than CSP or that other shit ......

Where are the pics mate, we need more VW guys on here.....

I'm about to embark on building my own teardrop trailer to tow behind the zombie....
 

hazza6542

Eats Squid
Ah thanks man, makes sense now.

Pics were coming, but once the exhaust was on I thought I'd just get some brake fluid, so I grabbed that. And bolts for the decklid.. and a new battery... and new fuel hosing. Took the pedal assembly apart, fixed the handbrake, bled the brakes, fixed the fuel line from tank to hard line, put on the decklid and suddenly it was dark. Need a garage badly. I'll try and get some pics after exams tomorrow. (no class after exam = earlier beetle time = more ride time)

Wondering if you can help me out with the pedal assembly? Clutch and brakes are sweet, but throttle will depress as far as it can and feels like it's only giving about 10-20%. Not helping that is it's bent and it's hitting the kick panels/heater channel (pics tomorrow show it a bit clearer). Can't let clutch all the way out without stalling because there's not enough throttle. Cable needs to be tightened or rebuild accelerator/pedal assembly completely?
 

binner

Hath shat hymself
Ah thanks man, makes sense now.

Pics were coming, but once the exhaust was on I thought I'd just get some brake fluid, so I grabbed that. And bolts for the decklid.. and a new battery... and new fuel hosing. Took the pedal assembly apart, fixed the handbrake, bled the brakes, fixed the fuel line from tank to hard line, put on the decklid and suddenly it was dark. Need a garage badly. I'll try and get some pics after exams tomorrow. (no class after exam = earlier beetle time = more ride time)

Wondering if you can help me out with the pedal assembly? Clutch and brakes are sweet, but throttle will depress as far as it can and feels like it's only giving about 10-20%. Not helping that is it's bent and it's hitting the kick panels/heater channel (pics tomorrow show it a bit clearer). Can't let clutch all the way out without stalling because there's not enough throttle. Cable needs to be tightened or rebuild accelerator/pedal assembly completely?
Hard to diagnose when not with the beetle but first off loosen the accelRator cable in the engine bay and if possible grab the end of the cable with a pair of vice grips and pull back hardso you take all slack out of the cable then retighten the pinch bolt whilst keeping tension. That could be the fix.

If not, then loosen the pinch bolt again and go to the pedal cluster and make sure you have full travel, not sure what year you have but the roller and pedal is probibly worn to nothing so time to buy a new kit.

That's pretty much it, just make sure when you think you have it all sorted get a mirror and a mate , sit him in the seat and tell him to floor the shit out our the pedal and with the mirror look into the carb making sure your butterfly is full open so you are maximising the carbie. Once you have done that and the checked "ok, passed" sticker is stuck in the engine bay sit back and crack a beer, then start talking about fitting a double barrel carbie to squeeze more out of the donk..........

Air cooled is best cooled
 

hazza6542

Eats Squid
That could be the fix.

If not, then loosen the pinch bolt again and go to the pedal cluster and make sure you have full travel, not sure what year you have but the roller and pedal is probibly worn to nothing so time to buy a new kit.

Air cooled is best cooled
Got the pedal off, previous owner had done a home repair on the pedal, wasn't a roller pedal, but it's a '61 not sure what year the roller stopped. Pedal had new tabs welded on the back with a random metal bolt connected to the throttle and the pedal itself was bent pretty bad, hence hitting the chassis/kick panels. Keeping the car old rusty and making a rat (paint and panel beating aren't in the budget) so don't really want a new pedal or cluster, might try and find a wreck with working cluster to keep it looking old and busted.

Started it up to get a video and while I was getting the shits that I can smell burning oil now, ran out of fuel. The tap on the bottom of the tank is leaking after I replaced all the fuel lines, couldn't tell while the tank was in because it was just dripping onto the pan.

Air cooled IS the best cooled but god damn this one is killing me, I miss the 72 super it was perfect.
 

hazza6542

Eats Squid
There she is. Exhaust a bit of a tight fit with the apron but sounds good and it's out of the way. You can see as well where it is covered in red house paint (the drips are everywhere), certain parts you can see the brush strokes in the paint, but it's a ruby red original paint, going to somehow get it back down to original paint under the primer and house paint. That steering wheel is going too, nice original wheel with a horn ring, wheels being replaced with originals, these are too fat to drop it with standard fenders.

Seals should be in this week, with glass back in I can start interior and weld up battery pan but you can see there it's in really good nic for an older vw tray, just going to weld the holes rather than a new tray and then POR-15 the whole pan inside and out. Looking at anywhere from 6 - 12 months till it's ready for rego. Didn't get a photo but there used to be a shitty after market sunroof held in with kitchen sealant that we had cut out and welded up, but now there's a big square of grey primer across our roof, might just paint something over it, misfits face or something.




 
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