pistonbroke
Eats Squid
Just found another one for $600 that I'll use for spares.
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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Won't the same parts just fail from both of them ? You could just sell them
both and buy a Toyota ... Otherwise, I foresee a landrover graveyard building !
pistonbroke
Eats Squid
The in-laws have 140 acres that is the ideal location for such a deathbed of British motoring.
hazza6542
Eats Squid
Beetle engine is out and split. Everything inside is pretty shit hot, can probably reuse the crank and camshaft, with everything still attached no worries but need outside opinions. Will have pictures tonight. Main question, massive carbon build up on the heads and valves. Valves and probably guides will get replaced, but how do I safely clean the carbon off? Was thinking of getting everything vapor blasted but better check first.
The beloved 105 Cruiser has developed a little bit of an issue where she squeaks/rattles when engine braking (going downhill, in gear). Especially noisy in 1st gear low range on bumpy ground (maybe just because theres no wind noise). Around the same time I've also noticed she wobbles/shudders a bit taking off in 1st... especially on hill starts but also does it on dead flat ground when you release the clutch slowly at idle. Not so much in "normal" driving.
Any inspiration? Thinking engine mounts?
Bonus question - if it is the engine mounts, is lifting the engine to replace it by running my winch up through a winch block around a gum tree branch and back down to the engine lifting points a bad idea for any particular reason? I dont have easy access to an engine hoist.
Any inspiration? Thinking engine mounts?
Bonus question - if it is the engine mounts, is lifting the engine to replace it by running my winch up through a winch block around a gum tree branch and back down to the engine lifting points a bad idea for any particular reason? I dont have easy access to an engine hoist.
Flow-Rider
Burner
Check the rear tail shaft is tight and the condition of the uni's, then check the control arm bushes. Have a feel of the rear wheel bearing also.
I wouldn't chain block from a widow maker/gumtree. If you are careful enough you can jack the engine up from under the car and do the engine mounts one at a time and never risk putting your hands in the crush points.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Strip everything down. Put all the bits in a box (or better yet wire baskets) and take them to your local engine reconditioning shop and ask them to put it all through their hot wash. Its the only way to fly when cleaning engine parts, life is too short to do it by hand!!
Get them to do the guides, clean up the heads and reseat the valves - again life is short. Also they can hone the bores and regrind the crank for oversize shells.
Reassemble.
Or install an EJ25.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpb2Him9CUo
Theo don't use the winch / tree unless you have had enough of living. Check the engine mounts by levering them away from the body. Does it do it in R? Sounds more like clutch to me or gearbox mounts. Which engine do you have? The naturally aspirated diesels had a weak box.
binner
Hath shat hymself
proof read
I wanna see pics of # 3 cylinder and piston, do all the bearings spin freely on the crank?, show me a pic of the split bearing.............. info info info :eagerness:
hazza6542
Eats Squid
Get some shots tomorrow. Cam bearing mint, main bearings and thrust way too loose and case has high point from the oil Valley in the bearing. Assuming a grind down 0.5mm and get OS bearings? Gunna go back to stock 1600cc and learn that first before trying a stroker.
EDIT: Dunno if that made sense. I don't know all tech terms so put the dots together. The half bearings that go in the case over the crank do not 'pop' in and out, not tight at all but also no free play. The rods spin freely and have sweet fa side to side play. Cylinders are caked in carbon up top on the face but sides are pretty good, no scoring, same for cylinders. Rockers are either way too loose or pretty tight. No knowledge on rockers so not too sure. Heads also covered in carbon and valves look shot but I can stand on the springs and get the valves to move and they all need pretty similar pressure. I saw a kit for $995 USD with new CB crank, 74mm, PC 94mm and new dual port heads, very chinese though. 1968cc stroker goodness that apparently doesn't need any machining clearance. Only thing stopping me is having to do new manifolds and carbs, but I refuse to buy Chebers and I lvoe spanish 40 IDF's, but $$$$$$.
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hazza6542
Eats Squid
Photos galore. Educate me some, binner.
Can see the groove in the case from bearings, and what looks like some left over dowel pin, but all the pins were equal length when they came out..?
Video shows the lifters, the last one on the right is tighter and has resistance. Another of the lifters wouldn't come out without being tapped from the other side. But, during disassembly they all fell out with gravity so wouldn't say it was too tight when it blowd up.
[video=youtube;SjbRAhX7P3M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjbRAhX7P3M[/video]
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Can see the groove in the case from bearings, and what looks like some left over dowel pin, but all the pins were equal length when they came out..?
Video shows the lifters, the last one on the right is tighter and has resistance. Another of the lifters wouldn't come out without being tapped from the other side. But, during disassembly they all fell out with gravity so wouldn't say it was too tight when it blowd up.
[video=youtube;SjbRAhX7P3M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjbRAhX7P3M[/video]
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hazza6542
Eats Squid
Only noticed that after posting that, too. Will have a good check tomorrow.
Does look cracked...
Built up an 1835 with CB roller crank, big valve heads and twin 48 IDFs many years ago. Fitted in a Baja beastie with megaphone exhaust. Was a great exercise in spending someone else's money. While it revved well (for a wobbly) it still made very average power.
Built up an 1835 with CB roller crank, big valve heads and twin 48 IDFs many years ago. Fitted in a Baja beastie with megaphone exhaust. Was a great exercise in spending someone else's money. While it revved well (for a wobbly) it still made very average power.
binner
Hath shat hymself
hard to see in pics
what about the last main bearing that is on pulley end of case, and check all your oil galleries for blocks, what about the oil pump?
How about you buy a nice nearly finished rebuilt 2ltr Kombi engine to dump in the beetle :happy::happy::happy::whoo:
I reckon with the right tuning you can squeeze 65/70 HP out of it
what about the last main bearing that is on pulley end of case, and check all your oil galleries for blocks, what about the oil pump?
How about you buy a nice nearly finished rebuilt 2ltr Kombi engine to dump in the beetle :happy::happy::happy::whoo:
I reckon with the right tuning you can squeeze 65/70 HP out of it
hazza6542
Eats Squid
Hahaha, true salesman. Kind of excited about rebuilding myself now, proper built not bought.
Well Cyl.3 definitely doesn't look like that. They're all pretty great, wondering now if I should have just thrown a new push rod in and be done with it but then I'd just be waiting for the next thing to go boom. Oil pump is sweet, will use it again, just a new cover plate. Just trying to get a feel for what I can use and what needs to go. What do you think of those rods on the crank? Will get feeler gauges to check the gaps but they spin so nicely.