Pads wear, hydraulic tensioners are supposed to compensate.
Pads?Pads wear, hydraulic tensioners are supposed to compensate.
Pads.Pads?
Thanks. Very helpfulPads.
Talking belts here Different sort of hydraulic tensioner.Chain tension pads.
Ive installed many many manual tensioners, I am comfy getting the tension right.Does the timing system have a belt keeper around the crank pulley? If not, I’d kinda fall towards the automatic tensioner. As flow points out, shorter life but kinda more idiot proof if installed correctly
I managed to reuse many Subaru hydraulic tensioner back in the day, using a g clamp, taking 2 minutes to slowly reset. But I did replace the bearings in the pulley.
Too many tensioners, probably only needed one.I had done about 8 years of fleet servicing, I can't recall finding a loose timing belt with a fixed tensioner unless there were other issues like worn bearings or an ancient belt with cracks. I suppose when you start going to the longer belts on the quad cam stuff it might become as issue. A lot of the early Mitsubishi stuff with belts had hydraulic tensioners that just failed left, right and centre.
I had done about 8 years of fleet servicing, I can't recall finding a loose timing belt with a fixed tensioner unless there were other issues like worn bearings or an ancient belt with cracks. I suppose when you start going to the longer belts on the quad cam stuff it might become as issue. A lot of the early Mitsubishi stuff with belts had hydraulic tensioners that just failed left, right and centre.
After thoughts like this timing reluctor wheel can never end well, even more so when the hydraulic tensioners start to suck in air.Mitsuboshi belts on a Mitsubishi just to do everyone's head in?
Reminds me of an Indiana Jones or James Bond movie with flying spinning sharp things. Jesus, little bit of belt wander and it’s choppy choppy shred shred smack smack bang bang goodnightAfter thoughts like this timing reluctor wheel can never end well, even more so when the hydraulic tensioners start to suck in air.
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Look like a bunch of lazy pricks to me.Mechanics seem to have a shotgun approach and replace coils, spark plugs, MAF sensor, PCV valve etc as likely culprits but not knowing if it will fix it 100%. Possible small holes in vacuum hoses is another one.
Electric cars will be fine as you will be able to troubleshoot it over the phone and your credit card is on file anyways so can be auto ordered.The Jimny has been intermittently hiccuping at idle for some time now. No error codes are thrown.
It doesn't stall but doesn't fill you with confidence either. All fine when driving with some throttle so it is something funky with the idle airflow/fuel mix. Mrs wasn't a fan and didn't want to drive it but wasn't going to get far with the manual Mazda either
Mechanics seem to have a shotgun approach and replace coils, spark plugs, MAF sensor, PCV valve etc as likely culprits but not knowing if it will fix it 100%. Possible small holes in vacuum hoses is another one. Couldn't put my finger on what it could be overall and didn't want to just throw money at it either without knowing that it will make a difference. Seems to be an issue with Suzuki engines but no clear root cause.
I cleaned the throttle body butterfly valve where it felt a bit goopy and sticky. I guessed it could be sticking while the ECU thought it was an another angle hence the cough at idle. Seemed a bit better for a few weeks then it came back. Doh, but in hindsight was a hint.
Took it out yesterday and it hiccupped more so had to look at it again this morning.
Pulled off the PCV valve and cleaned and degreased it. Got some Nulon throttle body/carburettor cleaner and cleaned the throttle body and the idle control intake. Sprayed a bunch of it in, started it and then rinse and repeated.
All good so far and it feels smoother with more power, well a bit more. I hope I'm not speaking too soon again but a $20 cleaner vs. a $900+ MAF sensor is a good start.
None of this fun will happen with electric cars, errr....... right....??