Reliable powerful brake upgrade?
- Thread starter Flip666
- Start date
are you unhappy with the Saints? I have Xt 8000 and Saints. The Xt’s are great but the Saints are friggin’ awesome!
Flip666
Likes Dirt
I like the Saints, they are getting on though.
Have been told the m820's have a fair bit more power than the m810s..
They're just on a trail bike, and running 203 front 180 rear but would like a bit more. And I'd like to have the lever having not much throw til contact but can't get that without having it rub
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Have been told the m820's have a fair bit more power than the m810s..
They're just on a trail bike, and running 203 front 180 rear but would like a bit more. And I'd like to have the lever having not much throw til contact but can't get that without having it rub
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Staunch
Eats Squid
I've had both M810s and M820s. I rate the M820s much higher due to serviceability and feel, especially in terms of having less lever throw. In regards to power, I didn't notice a huuuge increase but I've ridden some gnarly shit and they've never not been enough.
I'll probably always ride Shimano over Hope just for being able to use mineral oil and ease of finding spares, but that's just my preference.
Z
Zaf
Guest
Magura MT5's can be bought for a deal, they come standard with the HC1 lever (MT7's don't and it's criminal), which are ergonomically similar to the Shimano's and will outmatch everything for power and modulation in its pricepoint (and above).
You don't need to deal with DOT Fluid, and the your chances of attracting a sexier partner increase dramatically because you're seen to be fiscally responsible, and yet classy, with purchases.
You don't need to deal with DOT Fluid, and the your chances of attracting a sexier partner increase dramatically because you're seen to be fiscally responsible, and yet classy, with purchases.
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Mywifesirrational
I however am very normal. Trust me.
Indeed, its ludicrous how good they are for the price, surprised they are not on more bikes. 75 euro an end on bike discount at moment minus rotors.
Been using a couple of sets for a few years now, the only issues I have had are the resin pads they come with are average compared to the MT7 pads or aftermarket sintered pads, and the HC1 levers cost about 50aud each, which adds 1/3 to the total price, but those levers are worth it.
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
A fat arse's guide to brakes:
I'm a Shimano fanboy because I like mineral oil and they tend to have more bite. Hope feel to spongy to me. SRAM just suck. Magura have a dedicated following but the prices and tricky setup have put me off. Formula perform well, when they work.
The m810 and m820 calipers are very similar, the only difference is the cutout for the finned pads on the m820.
I personally prefer the levers on the m810 to the m820 because they are more direct. M785 or m8000 levers have a more aggressive cam profile so should give you earlier bite.
What pads, rotors and lines are you running?
Metal pads at a minimum, and kevlar style soft racing pads (eg Discobrake) for all out power. Resin pads have more initial bite but the power tapers off very quickly.
Proper 203mm floating rotors like the Discobrake ones. https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=4&c=55&p=1750&tb=006 The Shimano rotors are pinned and don't truly float and therefore warp. I've found the rotor designs with many small holes to work the best.
Brakelines won't impact the initial bite of the brake but will influence ultimate power especially once the brakes heat up. I really like Goodridge steel braided lines but I'm going to try some Uberbike kevlar braided lines on some of my lightweight bikes.
If all of that isn't enough there are two avenues left to you.
Two pot brakes with really big pistons like the Hope V2 and Formula RO or ROR.
Or
Direttissima.
Or if you're crazy (like me)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/112808879596
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I'm a Shimano fanboy because I like mineral oil and they tend to have more bite. Hope feel to spongy to me. SRAM just suck. Magura have a dedicated following but the prices and tricky setup have put me off. Formula perform well, when they work.
The m810 and m820 calipers are very similar, the only difference is the cutout for the finned pads on the m820.
I personally prefer the levers on the m810 to the m820 because they are more direct. M785 or m8000 levers have a more aggressive cam profile so should give you earlier bite.
What pads, rotors and lines are you running?
Metal pads at a minimum, and kevlar style soft racing pads (eg Discobrake) for all out power. Resin pads have more initial bite but the power tapers off very quickly.
Proper 203mm floating rotors like the Discobrake ones. https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=4&c=55&p=1750&tb=006 The Shimano rotors are pinned and don't truly float and therefore warp. I've found the rotor designs with many small holes to work the best.
Brakelines won't impact the initial bite of the brake but will influence ultimate power especially once the brakes heat up. I really like Goodridge steel braided lines but I'm going to try some Uberbike kevlar braided lines on some of my lightweight bikes.
If all of that isn't enough there are two avenues left to you.
Two pot brakes with really big pistons like the Hope V2 and Formula RO or ROR.
Or
Direttissima.
Or if you're crazy (like me)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/112808879596
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Magura gets my vote. Heaps of power, light and mineral oil. Was a Shimano fan boy but the M8000s really put me off
The bleed process is a bit annoying but once you work out that the caliper needs to be just lower than the lever when removing the caliper bleed port it’s all good.
Also knowing that one syringe has a hole in it so you can put your finger over it and not spill any oil when removing the lever syringe helps.
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The bleed process is a bit annoying but once you work out that the caliper needs to be just lower than the lever when removing the caliper bleed port it’s all good.
Also knowing that one syringe has a hole in it so you can put your finger over it and not spill any oil when removing the lever syringe helps.
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Z
Zaf
Guest
My MT7's came stock with the two finger bastards, bought the HC1's to replace them and the difference is incredible!
Good point though MT5 isn't the HC1, but it's a shorter standard lever compared to the MT7's that has a better feel to it from all accounts.
If you get the anniversary edition MT7's you get the HC3's though.
Here's a comparison of the HC1 vs the MT7 stock lever blade. Doesn't look like much, but look at the orientation of the piston activation prong, and the deeper curving. These sit in a little close to the bars and at a much nicer angle; they don't look much shorter, but they do feel just night and day better.
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Flip666
Likes Dirt
Thanks for all the info so far guys. I'd looked at magura in the past and then stopped for some reason..
I don't know personally know anyone with them.
But they sound like they're pretty awesome.
So are the mt5 an 7 similar power?
How would they compare the m810 and slx m7000 which are on my agro hardtail.
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I don't know personally know anyone with them.
But they sound like they're pretty awesome.
So are the mt5 an 7 similar power?
How would they compare the m810 and slx m7000 which are on my agro hardtail.
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Z
Zaf
Guest
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/
A little less braking torque, and not as good as the MT7's under HIGH speed to complete stops (similar to Guides and Hope in that test). But for all practical purposes, yeah, they're pretty much as strong as each other.
yuley95
soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
I’ve got the Magura trail brakes which are basically MT7 at front and MT8 out back.
They are great but I would probably just go MT5 front and back if I had my time again.
Same power, better price.
As has been mentioned - the stock pads with MT5 need to be upgraded. I have just dropped in some Swiss stop pads after having a good experience with them previously (on avid brakes) and recommend them wholeheartedly.
They are great but I would probably just go MT5 front and back if I had my time again.
Same power, better price.
As has been mentioned - the stock pads with MT5 need to be upgraded. I have just dropped in some Swiss stop pads after having a good experience with them previously (on avid brakes) and recommend them wholeheartedly.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Magura hose is diabolical stuff for getting the end fittings in when you need to shorten the lines to suit the bike. That said, it's usually something you only have to do twice (once for each brake).
New levers on the 810 calipers are a simple plug-n-play upgrade; as mentioned earlier, there's little difference between the M810 & M820 calipers beyond finned pad compatibility with the 820s (incdentally, M8020 XT 4-pot are the same calipers as M820, just with different printing). Finned pads come into play if you're really pushing the brakes hard. They won't give you more power, but by enabling the pads to run cooler, the power will stay on longer before you bake & glaze the pad surfaces, which causes fade.
Don't need to be a fat-arse to come to that conclusion.
M8000 has a revised cam profile over M785, so it's a bit less jumpy in initial application, but similar in stroke length. M785 & related levers do have bucketloads of modulation if you learn how to ride the cam, M8000 & relatives are a lot less touchy on that front & easier to control. Either way, metal pads for power with modulation.
New levers on the 810 calipers are a simple plug-n-play upgrade; as mentioned earlier, there's little difference between the M810 & M820 calipers beyond finned pad compatibility with the 820s (incdentally, M8020 XT 4-pot are the same calipers as M820, just with different printing). Finned pads come into play if you're really pushing the brakes hard. They won't give you more power, but by enabling the pads to run cooler, the power will stay on longer before you bake & glaze the pad surfaces, which causes fade.
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