Boom King
downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
I run Formula RO's and they are brilliant!
SRAM XO trail brakes dragging.
- Thread starter Jaredp
- Start date
link1896
Mr Greenfield
I've only ever had trouble with AVID pistons not travelling equal amounts on rear calipers. The lazy piston, is it on the side the hose connects to the caliper, or the other side?
i think under light pressure (i.e rears), the piston's with a higher bore friction get stuck, full of junk and seize. I had a juicy 7 I couldn't get the piston out at all years ago.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
I loved the feel of my avid CRs, but the regular bleeding got to be a pain, combined with the price XTs were going for I jumped ship. Still ran HS1 rotors as the shimanos were poo.
fridgie
Likes Dirt
Get with the times man!! We live in a digital world now, on or off
None of this analogue/modulation crap....
Each to their own I suppose, I have Deore on Deore rotor and they are mint. Hassle free and feeling good for 15months
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Dot 5.1 isn't expensive.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
But riding time is.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Oh yeah, it's super precious. Possibly rotors were too small or hard pads? I'm using 200mm rotors and organic pads, 1 finger braking, no fade with dot 5.1, no overheating, haven't had to bleed in 2000km. Same results with juicy 7 and elixirs. Did have overheating issues with metallic pads. Sent a rotor purple and cooked fluid from one big brake event trying to slow for a hairpin from 60km/h
Pistons getting stuck is my gripe with avid.
JTmofo
XC Enthusiast
+1.
Expensive components shouldn't require constant maintaining. Routine maintenance doesn't equate to constant maintenance.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
Think you've got off my point, I loved the performance of the CRs, just the upkeep was a pain.
Love the hopes for the similar feel and performance, and the set and forget maintenance of the shimanos.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
I heard my name called....
Ye olde sticky piston..... many brakes encounter it at some point.... Remove the pads & squeeze the lever to push the pistons out a bit (but don't pop them right out); you'll likely notice one side pushes more than the other. Clean the sides of the pistons & lubricate with a bit of brake fluid (for users of other brakes, use whatever fluid is used in the system) then push the pistons back in. Brace against the piston/s that do move easily with a spanner or something & squeeze the lever again to push the other side out. Repeat the clean & lube step. Push pistons back in again, and this time without pushing against the pistons, squeeze the lever to see if they extend equally - they should be getting better.
Scuff the pads up on a bit of sandpaper & leave the dust on the surface (especially with new rotors). Bung the wheel back in, give it a spin then grab the brake to get that pad dust into the rotor surface, then go & do your bedding in runs.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Must have poached the Hayes engineering team....
link1896
Mr Greenfield
So pads are real close to rotor and lever barely moves before pads are fully engaged? If so, remove some fluid, over full.
new brakes or second hand?
MarioM
Likes Dirt
New , taken straight off a new bike before it even left the shop . Yep pads are close to rotor but funnily enough no drag .
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Remove pads, open bleed nipple, push pistons back in to vent fluid, close nipple, clean mess, replace pads, fit wheel, pump brake to reset clearance.
Whatever this guy says... do that.
if he said bash your mate.... do that to.:dance:
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
If problems persist, dispose of said Avids in an environmentally considerate manner and buy Shimanos.