Thanks @Minlak

[EsPeGe]

Hey all, I didn't want to derail the Newly released bikes thread any more than I had already so I'll ask here. Since F-ing @Minlak posted pics of those very pimp looking Gold TRP brakes I feel I might have to get some. But TRP are saying this: -

"The brakes will NOT work with the standard 1.8mm rotors. The pistons will be extended too far and will give you a very weak lever feel. Over time this will get worse as you extend the pistons to the end of their travel. One on the main features of the EVO is the thicker 2.3mm rotors. This helps dissipate heat and dramatically reduce brake fade during long descents."

I don't buy it. If I used 1.8mm rotors, yes the pistons would be pushed further out but when you bleed them, you push the pads out, top the fluid level off and I can't see any reason why the lever feel would be any different. You'd simply have slightly more fluid in the system. I call bullshit. I also think @Oddjob 's solution would work perfectly well. What do you all think?

As to the heat dissipation I'm not calling it either way. It makes sense but I don't know that it would be vastly different but hey I don't really care as I've never found my brakes lacked power even on long Thredbo descents.

Cheers Scott.

 

[creaky]

What do you all think?

I think you’re being a cheapskate. Buy the matching rotors, in gold of course.

Either that, or new bike time.

 

[EsPeGe]

I think you’re being a cheapskate. Buy the matching rotors, in gold of course.

Either that, or new bike time.

I've already got gold rotors!!! They are brand new, I'm not buying new ones just cos they are .5mm wider!!!!

 

[creaky]

I've already got gold rotors!!! They are brand new, I'm not buying new ones just cos they are .5mm wider!!!!

Come on ... surely it’s only $320 per mm?

 

[Shredden]

Cut out 2x 0.25mm thick pieces of sheet metal, glue to the backing of each pad.

Easy peasy.

 

[Cardy George]

I don't buy it. If I used 1.8mm rotors, yes the pistons would be pushed further out but when you bleed them, you push the pads out, top the fluid level off and I can't see any reason why the lever feel would be any different. You'd simply have slightly more fluid in the system. I call bullshit. I also think @Oddjob 's solution would work perfectly well. What do you all think?

I'd be worried about the pistons extending too far when the pads are worn out, but Oddjob's solution would prevent that too.

 

[hifiandmtb]

Is there some sort of paste you could smear on there, adding the necessary thickness?

 

[Dangals]

I figured that if I was buying these I may as well use the rotors they recommend - otherwise I may as well buy different calipers that would have worked with my existing Shimano rotors.

Oddjobs suggestion I suppose could work as it is moving the pad further out therefore reducing the distance between pad and rotor.

I hated my shimanos at Thredbo so keen to super keen to see how these go whenever I can get back

 

[wkkie]

Oddjobs Uberbike solution should work nicely. Go for it!

Just don't expect free shipping from them anymore unless you buy the place out...

 

[Ultra Lord]

Cut out 2x 0.25mm thick pieces of sheet metal, glue to the backing of each pad.

Easy peasy.

100% this.

.25 shim is easy to come by. In my work 0.02mm is enough to put something in the scrap, 0.5mm could very well screw those pistons up. Maybe not after one set of pads, but eventually after wearing the rotor down......... Do you really wanna risk it?

Shim them pads!

 

[Oddjob]

I'm pretty confident my solution will work but if you get the racematrix pads and heatsink pad kits and they don't work out, I'll buy them off you.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[rowdyflat]

All sounds like bullshit to me.
Heat dissipation is dependent on the surface area to volume ratio so thicker rotors will accumulate heat for the same shape.
Another mtbike Solution in search of a problem .

 

[komdotkom]

I've used titanium shims on brake pads on my race cars for years, Ti is a great insulator to prevent heat getting from the backing plate onto the pistons and subsequently the brake fluid/oil. Remember it's this transfer of heat into the fluid which gives you that 'oh shit' feeling when there's no pressure in the system and you start pumping the lever madly hoping to stop.
.010 ti sheet is pretty easy to get, then you just cut it with a set of shears or really good scissors.

 

[rowdyflat]

Finned rotors may increase heat dissipation .
There are many scientific articles on line studying this problem, major problem for race cars less so for bikes.

 

[Minlak]

And your welcome

 

[beeb]

All sounds like bullshit to me.
Heat dissipation is dependent on the surface area to volume ratio so thicker rotors will accumulate heat for the same shape.
Another mtbike Solution in search of a problem .

But increased thickness means increased material/mass. More material to absorb heat means it takes longer overall to heat up.

I don't think it'd make any practical difference for anyone not riding DH though...

 

[link1896]

Copper cored rotors here we come.

I’ve always wanted a water jet cutter.......

 

[Flow-Rider]

Thin hot rotors usually sing, it's not always about the need to cool them down for extra performance.

 

[Minlak]

Copper cored rotors here we come.

I’ve always wanted a water jet cutter.......

Surely we should be moving onto some form of active cooling by now - I mean we have self tying shoes and flying cars - surely we can fit some form or water cooling or evaporative cooling to the rotors - maybe air con in the hubs radiating out

 

[Dales Cannon]

Funny you should mention that, here is a rotor design I have been woking on. Still a little lumpy.