The Photo Snob Thread

swaz

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I'm sorry but I cant help but take photos at Noosa all the time


Noosa by Andrew Kevin Benson, on Flickr


Noosa by Andrew Kevin Benson, on Flickr

Feedback would be great! Second photo annoys me because i accidentally cut the rock off at the back.
Constructive feedback :)
IMAGE 1
To make this image better I would:
Have the stair case in the middle on the frame and get high, something other than normal eye level.
The sky is not really interesting and there isn't a lot you can do about it. Times a few mins past the sun sets is good. Other times it's best to go when there is scattered cloud... its pot luck really. But more detail in the sky here would help.
The dead vegetation on the left is very distracting and doesn't fit with the other lean lines and smoothness of the rocks.
If you haven't already go down to those big smooth rocks shown on the bottom right of the image. They make for great black and white photos.
17mm of a FF camera will distort the hell out of the outside edges of an image. Go with 20mm. It's still super wide.

Image 2
The colours of the rock on the right are very eye catching, the rocks on the left not so much. Not sure if you own or used a circular polariser but this would help cut out the shine on the rocks and bring out their natural detail. Rather than just reflecting the sky.
The sky is a bit more interesting, but in terms of something different it is pretty standard. Maybe try moving back and only having about 1/5 of the top of the frame with sky. Especially when you have nice rocks and moving water you can motion blur.
Cutting the rock off isn't as bad as I think you make it out to be. Nothing wrong with something that strong visually just appearing into to frame. Perhaps making it the only thing in the frame would help in the future and having water blur around it like a massive island of cool red/orange/brown earth tones.
 

Andrew Benson

Likes Dirt
Constructive feedback :)
IMAGE 1
To make this image better I would:
Have the stair case in the middle on the frame and get high, something other than normal eye level.
The sky is not really interesting and there isn't a lot you can do about it. Times a few mins past the sun sets is good. Other times it's best to go when there is scattered cloud... its pot luck really. But more detail in the sky here would help.
The dead vegetation on the left is very distracting and doesn't fit with the other lean lines and smoothness of the rocks.
If you haven't already go down to those big smooth rocks shown on the bottom right of the image. They make for great black and white photos.
17mm of a FF camera will distort the hell out of the outside edges of an image. Go with 20mm. It's still super wide.

Image 2
The colours of the rock on the right are very eye catching, the rocks on the left not so much. Not sure if you own or used a circular polariser but this would help cut out the shine on the rocks and bring out their natural detail. Rather than just reflecting the sky.
The sky is a bit more interesting, but in terms of something different it is pretty standard. Maybe try moving back and only having about 1/5 of the top of the frame with sky. Especially when you have nice rocks and moving water you can motion blur.
Cutting the rock off isn't as bad as I think you make it out to be. Nothing wrong with something that strong visually just appearing into to frame. Perhaps making it the only thing in the frame would help in the future and having water blur around it like a massive island of cool red/orange/brown earth tones.

Awesome thanks alot! Yeah I was using a circular polariser earlier but it got covered in sea water unfortunately.
 

Rhys_

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I like those shots Andrew, but probably agree with everything the guys said. Not than I'm really qualified to have a say haha

Few recent bits and pieces:







 

Chalkie

Likes Dirt
Canon 6D + 24-105 F/4 @ JBHIFI - $2350 (after $200 cash back)
Canon 6D + 24-105 F/4 @ DWI - $2285 (grey import)


Canon 6D BODY @ JBHIFI - $1443 (After cash back)
Canon 6D BODY @ DWI - $1609 (grey import)

Where did you get the JBhifi price for the body only? I can only see if for $1699 after cash back.
 

HimynameisMike

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Figure this would be the best place for a response - what kind of camera do you ride with? I'm looking at the Nikon AW1. The idea of interchangeable lenses and being shockproof in a fairly small package seems like a great idea. Anyone here actually use an AW1? I'm by no means a pro photographer, I'd say I'm below the level of beginner whatever that is.
I'd like to be able to take decent 'action' shots of my mates and I riding. Having a camera that could survive whilst being thrown around in a backpack whilst I ride dh/am trails would be most important. Any suggestions?
 

Unlearn

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I can't say much about the AW1, but I can say I havn't hear great things about that 1 inch sensor (I think thats what it uses?). I can say that I've owned two mirrorless cameras, A sony NEX and now a Fuji XE1, nether of them are that great for action shots, the best results were from pre-focusing.

Here's a shot from a recent trip to the states, Yosemite National Park....


 

L4M3G4M3R

Likes Bikes
I can't say much about the AW1, but I can say I havn't hear great things about that 1 inch sensor (I think thats what it uses?). I can say that I've owned two mirrorless cameras, A sony NEX and now a Fuji XE1, nether of them are that great for action shots, the best results were from pre-focusing.

Here's a shot from a recent trip to the states, Yosemite National Park....
Amazing shot man....awesome.
 

gregp

Likes Dirt
Figure this would be the best place for a response - what kind of camera do you ride with? I'm looking at the Nikon AW1. The idea of interchangeable lenses and being shockproof in a fairly small package seems like a great idea. Anyone here actually use an AW1? I'm by no means a pro photographer, I'd say I'm below the level of beginner whatever that is.
I'd like to be able to take decent 'action' shots of my mates and I riding. Having a camera that could survive whilst being thrown around in a backpack whilst I ride dh/am trails would be most important. Any suggestions?
As pointed out by Unlearn, the Nikon 1 sensor is not a market leader, but based on the extensive reading and research I've done it looks like their autofocus is the envy of all of their competitors in that class. So as long as you're not a pixel peeper and do not plan to extensively edit your photos or print large prints, I don't see why you would be dissatisfied with the AW1, especially since for action shots autofocus is v important. Afterall if your shots are out of focus no one will care what your sensor is really capable of. Personally I like to put all my photos through the Lightroom develop module and I like working with high quality high res originals. For riding I recently bought the Ricoh GR, used it in Rotorua and absolutely loved it. The camera size, the image quality and the focal length are perfect for MTB trail settings (it has a 28mm fixed focal length lens). But I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to a beginner. I carry it in a Lowepro Santiago DV 35 pouch inside my camelbak. The pouch is hardshell - perfect for protecting the camera from crashes.

My only other advice would be to make sure the camera system you go with has access to a relatively wide angle and moderately fast lens. Often there's not a lot of room on the trails to frame your shots properly and using anything longer than 30mm (in 35mm equiv terms) can be frustrating. Also in the woods light falls off very quickly so to avoid shaky or grainy high ISO photos I would recommend a lens that opens to at least f2.8. I think the 10mm (35mm equiv: ~30mm) f2.8 from the Nikon 1 line up would be your best bet.

Actually, I've just checked the price of the AW1 kit. It's not cheap. In that price range I would actually recommend the Sony RX100 or RX100 Mk II, this camera kicks Nikon 1's ass in almost every department despite its non-interchangeable lens. And you'll actually save some money. The RX100 MkII has just won the Reader's Choice Best Enthusiast Zoom Compact of 2013 on DP Review. And it was my second choice right after the Ricoh GR.
 
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heavyp

You heard it here first
I can't say much about the AW1, but I can say I havn't hear great things about that 1 inch sensor (I think thats what it uses?). I can say that I've owned two mirrorless cameras, A sony NEX and now a Fuji XE1, nether of them are that great for action shots, the best results were from pre-focusing.

Here's a shot from a recent trip to the states, Yosemite National Park....


Now that is f__king killer! I have the x pro 1 and the 23mm is on its way to me in mail. Yosemite is a dream destination for me cause of Ansel Adams and what he did for photography.
 

vtwiz

Likes Dirt
Figure this would be the best place for a response - what kind of camera do you ride with? I'm looking at the Nikon AW1. The idea of interchangeable lenses and being shockproof in a fairly small package seems like a great idea. Anyone here actually use an AW1? I'm by no means a pro photographer, I'd say I'm below the level of beginner whatever that is.
I'd like to be able to take decent 'action' shots of my mates and I riding. Having a camera that could survive whilst being thrown around in a backpack whilst I ride dh/am trails would be most important. Any suggestions?
Panasonic GM1 is getting great reviews.

Micro4/3 (much bigger than the 1inch of the Nikon and Sony RX's) , tiny form factor and with interchangeable lenses.
 
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Unlearn

Likes Dirt
Thanks guys!

heavyp - Funny you mentioned that, turns out if it wasn't for the guys at the Ansel Adams Gallery I might not have gotten that shot. I had no transport to that spot (other than a long hike, and return in the dark), and when I got talking to the guys in the Gallery they offered to take me up there, so I was pretty stoked.

The Galley itself is pretty amazing, it's great to see the timeless images on the walls. I walked out of there with a book of his classic images, was about all I could afford!
 
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