The QUICK question thread.....

The Duckmeister

Eats Squid
in desperate need of undo advice
see pics, can’t undo the allen key on the old octalink cranks..i presume the l-r threads are opposite in that they both undo the same way? have sprayed it already, have a 1/2” socket handle with a thomson seatpost on it, won’t budge
also when i get the other side crank off, start undoing the bottom bracket i undo it 6-6 turns then it becomes really tight? like it’s still connected to the other side..i thought they undid independently?
am losing it..swearing & abuse

View attachment 361476
View attachment 361477
Looks like you've lost the self-eaxtractor cap, which the bolt pulls against to remove the crank. Both bolts are normal R/H thread, therefore anti-clockwise to undo.

Further to the pipe-over-allen key-for more leverage idea suggested earlier, remove the pedal from the offending crank, wrap some rag over the crank to protect it fron gouges, and slip a large pipe over the crank and use the ground as a stopper against crank rotation. Then apply your enhanced leverage, with impact (shock loading can free over-tight threads where simple brute leverage won't) if required.
 

pink poodle

Our man in Japan
Looks like you've lost the self-eaxtractor cap, which the bolt pulls against to remove the crank. Both bolts are normal R/H thread, therefore anti-clockwise to undo.

Further to the pipe-over-allen key-for more leverage idea suggested earlier, remove the pedal from the offending crank, wrap some rag over the crank to protect it fron gouges, and slip a large pipe over the crank and use the ground as a stopper against crank rotation. Then apply your enhanced leverage, with impact (shock loading can free over-tight threads where simple brute leverage won't) if required.
Is this with the bike in an upright position and the bottom bracket shell + crank arm resting on the ground?
 

fatboyonabike

Eats Squid
Looks like you've lost the self-eaxtractor cap, which the bolt pulls against to remove the crank. Both bolts are normal R/H thread, therefore anti-clockwise to undo.
Yes, this
had to have a 2nd look, but you appear to be correct
Dan, does the bolt undo? (should be standard CCW)
if so, do you have another set of cranks with a self extracting bolt cap that you can pinch?
 

Flow-Rider

Wheel size expert
I usually undo them with my 1/2 " rattle gun or a long breaker bar, some people go apeshit with the loctite on the threads.
 

Daniel Hale

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Looks like you've lost the self-eaxtractor cap, which the bolt pulls against to remove the crank. Both bolts are normal R/H thread, therefore anti-clockwise to undo.

Further to the pipe-over-allen key-for more leverage idea suggested earlier, remove the pedal from the offending crank, wrap some rag over the crank to protect it fron gouges, and slip a large pipe over the crank and use the ground as a stopper against crank rotation. Then apply your enhanced leverage, with impact (shock loading can free over-tight threads where simple brute leverage won't) if required.
yep had wrapped an old tube around the crank, crank was in a pipe also..angle grinder tomorrow
 

SummitFever

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Before resorting to the angle grinder I'd try some heat and then some sharp shocks with a hammer on the end of your allen socket drive.
 

moorey

I'm full, couldn't eat another dick
I don’t recall my octalink being self extracting. Threads in crank are for the puller. I might have misread the problem though.
 

moorey

I'm full, couldn't eat another dick
one of the locals with a sworks stumpy retail 12K pulled out one day saw me using a large mallet for servicing, threatened me then & there never to approach his bike with a tool of any description
I don’t normally like Spesh riders....but...
 
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