The QUICK question thread.....

[RapidRob]

I'm after a rebuild kit for my race face dropper (losing air over 24h period) and it appears that this one is the go:

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

9point8.ca

Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from an Australian distributor, or at least without the outrageous $70 shipping fee?

 

[ozzybmx]

I'm after a rebuild kit for my race face dropper (losing air over 24h period) and it appears that this one is the go:

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

9point8.ca

Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from an Australian distributor, or at least without the outrageous $70 shipping fee?

$100us plus $70 postage

I'd be pumping it up and submerging it to see where the air is coming from. Then working out if there is a cheaper solution.

The RaceFace than came on my sons Canyon was a cheaper model but I just replaced it with a new post when it failed.

 

[shiny]

I'm after a rebuild kit for my race face dropper (losing air over 24h period) and it appears that this one is the go:

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

9point8.ca

Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from an Australian distributor, or at least without the outrageous $70 shipping fee?

The dropper is definitely the gen 1 licensing the 9 point 8 design?. They had heaps of issues and for $170 I would just buy a new dropper.

 

[The Duckmeister]

Is it worth buying a SRAM Chaingap Tool for the rear derailleur? Is it something that needs adjusting from time to time?

Yes. B-screws can sometimes creep, and SRAM cassettes are particularly fussy about derailleur gap because the bigger sprockets have sort-of narrow/wide tooth shaping.If the derailleur gap is out, the chain can ride on the tips of the teeth instead of meshing fully.

 

[Litenbror]

I'm after a rebuild kit for my race face dropper (losing air over 24h period) and it appears that this one is the go:

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

Fall Line Rebuild Kit: Replace v1 Nut with v2 Nut

9point8.ca

Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from an Australian distributor, or at least without the outrageous $70 shipping fee?

I bought a new race face (Fox transfer) for $250 from the Cyclinic outlet so probably not worth rebuilding at that price.

 

[birddog69]

Best tubeless rim tape? I see it's different widths so I assume the tape need to match the rim width? Thanks

 

[sane]

Ugly spot for a puncture. What do you reckon the chances of this holding up? Maybe take the wheel off and tip it on its side so the sealant can get amongst it?

 

[Mattyp]

Ugly spot for a puncture. What do you reckon the chances of this holding up? Maybe take the wheel off and tip it on its side so the sealant can get amongst it?
View attachment 405550

I've had at least 2 in a similar spot and although they'd seal would start to leak again once you start riding, a lot of movement at the bead. Admittedly I never tried to use a plug.

 

[sane]

Yeah, sealant alone wouldn’t do it and the plug is going to get knocked around with every compression. Not confident. Tyre is a month old too

 

[ozzybmx]

Yeah, sealant alone wouldn’t do it and the plug is going to get knocked around with every compression. Not confident. Tyre is a month old too

I reckon it will be fine. I went back to bacon strips after trying out a load of different plug kits as they just work and are so versatile, imagine trying to jam a Stans dart in there.
As mattyp said, it's a Flexi area but may hold, might also weep a bit. Will be forgot about in a week and probably outlast the tread or pending Maxiwobble

 

[Jpez]

Yeah, sealant alone wouldn’t do it and the plug is going to get knocked around with every compression. Not confident. Tyre is a month old too

I’ve had one in the same spot. Maybe 5mm further from the rim. Plugged it. Stared at it for a year thinking should try a patch or repair or something then the tyre wore out. Was fine. Never leaked.

 

[Minlak]

Best tubeless rim tape? I see it's different widths so I assume the tape need to match the rim width? Thanks

I honestly still use gorilla tape for tubeless set ups

 

[The Duckmeister]

Best tubeless rim tape? I see it's different widths so I assume the tape need to match the rim width? Thanks

I like the now-difficult (if not impossible) to find blue Bear outdoor masking tape. It's very thin which is very useful on extremely tight tyre/rim combinations, but doesn't bulge into the spoke holes & split like leckie tape does, sticks bluddy well when you need it to, but peels off cleanly & doesn't split into a bazillion fragments.

Rim tape comes in different widths to match different rim widths - it needs to span the full width of the rim bed to the edges are held down under the tyre beads, otherwise if it's too narrow it can peel & cause a leak into the rim cavity. Too wide is not as big an issue, but if it's a thickish tape it may prevent the tyre properly seating on the locking beads on the rim, which may increase the risk of a tyre burp.

 

[The Duckmeister]

Ugly spot for a puncture. What do you reckon the chances of this holding up? Maybe take the wheel off and tip it on its side so the sealant can get amongst it?
View attachment 405550

I've never tried a plug with punctures on the bead, but tried an internal patch (same as used on those old tube things). Too much tyre movement against the rim for it to stay stuck enough to hold tubeless for any great length of time, but is fine if you can bring yourself to chuck a tube in it.

 

[fjohn860]

I like the now-difficult (if not impossible) to find blue Bear outdoor masking tape. It's very thin which is very useful on extremely tight tyre/rim combinations, but doesn't bulge into the spoke holes & split like leckie tape does, sticks bluddy well when you need it to, but peels off cleanly & doesn't split into a bazillion fragments.

Best tubeless rim tape? I see it's different widths so I assume the tape need to match the rim width? Thanks

The yellow 3m exterior surface tape is (I assume) the bunnings replacement for the blue bear stuff. Never used the bear stuff, but the yellow 3m stuff seems to work fairly well. My taping skills are probably total balls but it seals for me.

Even the green paper masking tape works at a pinch. Saved me after this confession. Tyre stayed aired up for a few months too until I changed tyres...
https://www.rotorburn.com/forums/index.php?threads/confessions-from-the-fuckwits.257029/post-3370498

 

[Jpez]

Ugly spot for a puncture. What do you reckon the chances of this holding up? Maybe take the wheel off and tip it on its side so the sealant can get amongst it?
View attachment 405550

Oh looky looky. Did another 3 runs of Bandages after. Reckon it’ll hold up fine.
might have to replenish my bacon supply though!

 

[sane]

Oh looky looky. Did another 3 runs of Bandages after. Reckon it’ll hold up fine.
might have to replenish my bacon supply though! View attachment 405727

Mine is holding up fine too, though no Bandages level riding.
Is there anything bacon can’t do?

 

[fjohn860]

 

[Jpez]

Mine is holding up fine too, though no Bandages level riding.
Is there anything bacon can’t do?

Well mines flat as tack this morning but I suspect if I’d bothered to top up the sealant recently it may have sealed. The main hole with the 4 strips hanging out of may be terminal.

 

[Fred Nurk]

Yes. B-screws can sometimes creep, and SRAM cassettes are particularly fussy about derailleur gap because the bigger sprockets have sort-of narrow/wide tooth shaping.If the derailleur gap is out, the chain can ride on the tips of the teeth instead of meshing fully.

Bear in mind they're made of brie.