The Single Speed Thread

alchemist

alchemist

Manly Warringah MTB Club
Both will work, or if the slippage is not too bad just ride it, the paint will soon get worn away
 
O

Onegear

Likes Dirt
I Have A Nut

Refreshinglygood said:
my wanga dropouts have slipped.

I have put some locktite on the dropout plate between the dropout and the frame, that helped a little. A guy on MTBR reckons I should put a nut on the dropout adjuster screw.


Another guy reckons I should remove the paint under the dropout.


Any other suggestions???
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Remove the paint and install nuts on the dropout adjuster screws I have them on my wanga and get no slip.
 
R

Refreshinglygood

Likes Bikes and Dirt
done.


Which side of the frame do I put the nut on.


The side that the drop outs are on, or the side that the bolt goes in through the frame??

(no I don't men drive side or non drive side)
 
FR Drew

FR Drew

Not a custom title.
cha_cha_ said:
anyone got any recommendations for an SS crankset? i was going to just replace the ring on my old deore octalink setup but i's like 8 years old now and the bb is not what it used to be... i thought there might be some value in going hollowtech2 - something like an LX. is there anything better suited worth looking at?
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There's a thread on mtbr on this very topic at the moment. Basic consensus seem to be Phil Wood Eno or Middleburn RS7 with Uno chainring. The Wood woukld best be teamed with one of his square taper bottom brackets, the Middleburn can be purchased as either square taper or Isis. Going ISIS I'd grab an SKF BB, square taper again the Phil Wood is probably best.

Both of these solutions are pretty bulletproof but they're both pretty pricey.

Saint and Hone cranksets have also been suggested
 
'Ross

'Ross

Eats Squid
mongoosedh said:
I don't see how a vertical dropout can slip while SS if theres 50-100kg's of weight pressing down on the wheel.
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If you run qr, the force of your pedalling will pretty much pull the hub out of the dropouts because thats where the force is.
 
jetbike

jetbike

Squid
Tyre Recommendations

I'm planning to ride my rigid 1x1 around manly Dam as often as possible. I have chunky 2.4 Kenda tyres from an old 2001 GT I had (tyres in v good condition).

I considered these as they have high volume, which I assume will counter the lack of suspension.

Am I on the right track? Any other ideas or recommendations?

Thanks
 
tskelding

tskelding

Squid
A friend of mine is trying to convert a full susser into a SS, I've helped him out as much as I can but don't know where else to look. Ive recommended the vertical dropout tensioner and sus kit, from the address below, but what I would like to know is has anyone ere tried anything like that and can you give me any advice to pass on to him?

Address is: 3ws.yesspro.com
 
Christo

Christo

Likes Bikes and Dirt
tskelding said:
A friend of mine is trying to convert a full susser into a SS, I've helped him out as much as I can but don't know where else to look. Ive recommended the vertical dropout tensioner and sus kit, from the address below, but what I would like to know is has anyone ere tried anything like that and can you give me any advice to pass on to him?

Address is: 3ws.yesspro.com
Click to expand...
Depends on the hub but I'm using a Shimano alfine tensioner (with a tuf-nek SS kit - very adjustable) & it's great, only cost $30 from the LBS.

Insert gratuitous shot of my Jamis here...
 
O

Onegear

Likes Dirt
On The Screw

Refreshinglygood said:
not QR. Bolt up Hope hub.

it's the sliding dropout. That magic tool the ruler tells me so.
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The nut goes on the screw in the second picture my wanga came with it already installed. Once you have set the tension with the screw you tighten the nut up against the dropout this locks it all off.
 
Carlin

Carlin

Likes Bikes and Dirt
jetbike said:
I'm planning to ride my rigid 1x1 around manly Dam as often as possible. I have chunky 2.4 Kenda tyres from an old 2001 GT I had (tyres in v good condition).

I considered these as they have high volume, which I assume will counter the lack of suspension.

Am I on the right track? Any other ideas or recommendations?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yep, I would just "run what you got", for now, and consider new tyres when you know what you want out of them. Fat tyres are fun, and they will take up a bit of chatter from running rigid.

I have just thrown the rigids back on my bike, so will have to join you ;)
 
cha_cha_

cha_cha_

Likes Dirt
FR Drew said:
There's a thread on mtbr on this very topic at the moment. Basic consensus seem to be Phil Wood Eno or Middleburn RS7 with Uno chainring. The Wood woukld best be teamed with one of his square taper bottom brackets, the Middleburn can be purchased as either square taper or Isis. Going ISIS I'd grab an SKF BB, square taper again the Phil Wood is probably best.

Both of these solutions are pretty bulletproof but they're both pretty pricey.

Saint and Hone cranksets have also been suggested
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just read this one: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=389687

i know it's SS, but everyone running square taper? they spend all this money on trick bits and don't see the value in external bearings... weird. am i missing something?
 
Dicky

Dicky

Punter God
jetbike said:
I'm planning to ride my rigid 1x1 around manly Dam as often as possible. I have chunky 2.4 Kenda tyres from an old 2001 GT I had (tyres in v good condition).

I considered these as they have high volume, which I assume will counter the lack of suspension.

Am I on the right track? Any other ideas or recommendations?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yeah, that works. Did that for a while meself.
Run a little less pressure in the front (maybe 30f / 35r) for some added grip/comfort, less if you don't weigh 90kg like me. Haven't flatted in ages though.

Invest in some decent lock-on grips and full-fingered gloves, or you'll have to ask someone else to open beers for you...
 
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