The Woodwork thread

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
The weight isnt enough? If no I would suggest fixing some mesh to the underside of the slabs, not the full size just a couple of pieces 300x300 or so along the length. Cut so that there is 50mm or so of wire free of the mesh all around the mesh. Fix it to the slabs with U nails and bend the cut ends down. This will work like velcro and if you can get a piece of box or bar in there you can bend them around the gabion mesh. That way the top is left without fixings and all those glorious splinters can find homes in someone's arse.

Alternatively weld some flat with pins pointing up. Fix these to the gabions and drill partway through the slab to coincide with the pins. Repeat splinter comment here.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
There are many ways to skin a cat so there are probably better way but if it were me:
I’d fill the cracks with resin. Might need to tape the bottom with clear packing tape to stop it escaping from any holes or cracks that go through and be prepared to do it a couple times as it will sink in over night. Sand the top to about 150. Bottom I wouldn’t even worry about sanding. You could probably use a varnish or polyeurathane but I’d myself use Cutek decking oil with tint otherwise it will grey off like an old pier. Cutek penetrates the deepest and nourishes the timber from the inside out. It’s not a horrible plasticised coating like some other types of deck oil.
Does the slab sit on top of the cages or in between?
 

clockworked

Like an orange
Ok I am not a member of a woodworking forum but I am a member of an MTB forum with a woodworking thread so a question for those with more expertise than me (i.e. almost anyone) about a little project I have started. Please no advice telling me it's a dumb idea too late for that! hang on daughter wants to steal laptop will update thsi post momentarily...

ok so I bought some marri slabs to act as seats on top of my gabion cages. My plan is to fill imperfections (gaping holes) in slabs with epoxy and finish. I have a few questions. I'd prefer a durable finish (will be exposed to weather) would people use a varnish or epoxy or something else ?

Also I obviosuly need to finish the whole thing so it wont warp etc, do I need to sand the underside really nicely or can I do that a bit rough and still be ok as I don't want to be sadning until 2021..

Anyone fixed timber slabs to gabion cages and got suggestions, this may be a long shot as I haven't seen it done anywhere yet...

View attachment 367386View attachment 367387View attachment 367388
Thats a great looking piece of wood. Nothing useful to add to your idea, but a great bit of wood either way
 

downunderdallas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
There are many ways to skin a cat so there are probably better way but if it were me:
I’d fill the cracks with resin. Might need to tape the bottom with clear packing tape to stop it escaping from any holes or cracks that go through and be prepared to do it a couple times as it will sink in over night. Sand the top to about 150. Bottom I wouldn’t even worry about sanding. You could probably use a varnish or polyeurathane but I’d myself use Cutek decking oil with tint otherwise it will grey off like an old pier. Cutek penetrates the deepest and nourishes the timber from the inside out. It’s not a horrible plasticised coating like some other types of deck oil.
Does the slab sit on top of the cages or in between?
Cheers that sounds very much like my current plan using black tinted epoxy. Those are actually two separate slabs from the same tree. One for each gabion.
 

downunderdallas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
The weight isnt enough? If no I would suggest fixing some mesh to the underside of the slabs, not the full size just a couple of pieces 300x300 or so along the length. Cut so that there is 50mm or so of wire free of the mesh all around the mesh. Fix it to the slabs with U nails and bend the cut ends down. This will work like velcro and if you can get a piece of box or bar in there you can bend them around the gabion mesh. That way the top is left without fixings and all those glorious splinters can find homes in someone's arse.

Alternatively weld some flat with pins pointing up. Fix these to the gabions and drill partway through the slab to coincide with the pins. Repeat splinter comment here.
You are right they do weigh a lot, just felt like I should do something and I do have surplus mesh lying around in the shed!
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Kinda woodwork.

Redesigned the lounge lamp base to sit flush on a new (leftover flooring) spotted gum extension, didn’t have a replacement plug so slotted it is:



Plus finally fitted the threshold trim cover...been sitting around since we built the house:



Deck timber colour looks way less purple in real life...
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Research the resin carefully. Some are no good exposed to uv. Not only does it go yellow it isnt flexible and cracks because it changes its properties and gets brittle. I ended up using filler on the letter box.

Gaps would look good in that setting anyway.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
Research the resin carefully. Some are no good exposed to uv. Not only does it go yellow it isnt flexible and cracks because it changes its properties and gets brittle. I ended up using filler on the letter box.

Gaps would look good in that setting anyway.
West Systems Epoxy. Marine grade. Reliable cure time. I’ve used it outside On an Ironbark bar and it’s still as it should be.
 

nzhumpy

Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
So I asked a week or so ago if someone could make knock me up a knife block as getting them in/out of the boxes constantly was starting to give me the irrates, a few kind 'burners replied but @Jpez was the first cab off the rank. A few messages and a quick chat about materials sizes etc and the wheels where set in motion.

My first day at work today in awhile (thanks Jobkeeper) and this was sitting at my desk, sent on Monday arrived Sydney on Wednesday so it would appear that not even Aus Post were willing to bugger this one up and make me post in the LTIH thread.

This is the end result and to say I'm stoked with the final result is an understatement, these pics don't really do justice to the level of craftsmanship that's gone into it, i'll try to get some better ones at the weekend when the lights a bit better.

Thanks @Jpez I owe you a beer or two next time I'm in Melbourne...if we're ever allowed in.




 

Jpez

Down on the left!
So I asked a week or so ago if someone could make knock me up a knife block as getting them in/out of the boxes constantly was starting to give me the irrates, a few kind 'burners replied but @Jpez was the first cab off the rank. A few messages and a quick chat about materials sizes etc and the wheels where set in motion.

My first day at work today in awhile (thanks Jobkeeper) and this was sitting at my desk, sent on Monday arrived Sydney on Wednesday so it would appear that not even Aus Post were willing to bugger this one up and make me post in the LTIH thread.

This is the end result and to say I'm stoked with the final result is an understatement, these pics don't really do justice to the level of craftsmanship that's gone into it, i'll try to get some better ones at the weekend when the lights a bit better.

Thanks @Jpez I owe you a beer or two next time I'm in Melbourne...if we're ever allowed in.




Was a pleasure mate. I had fun with this little project. And the timber (Birdseye Stringybark) really is stunning so would love to see a couple of photos in better lighting.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
Hoping someone might be able to offer a bit of advice for making some fence post caps. I've built a front fence out of cedar posts and a structural hardwood rail with mesh underneath. I've got a few bits of red gum that I'm looking to cut up and make some fence post caps out of. Just wondering what the best direction to cut the wood would be?
367621


I also have some red gum posts which are already cut and seasoned I could use to make the caps, but would need to join two pieces as they are the same dimensions as the cedar posts (90x90) and I want the caps to sit over the top of the cedar post slightly.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
Hoping someone might be able to offer a bit of advice for making some fence post caps. I've built a front fence out of cedar posts and a structural hardwood rail with mesh underneath. I've got a few bits of red gum that I'm looking to cut up and make some fence post caps out of. Just wondering what the best direction to cut the wood would be?
View attachment 367621

I also have some red gum posts which are already cut and seasoned I could use to make the caps, but would need to join two pieces as they are the same dimensions as the cedar posts (90x90) and I want the caps to sit over the top of the cedar post slightly.
If I’m reading you correctly?? you want to avoid end grain on top so cut longitudinally with the grain. So green lines.
Also you really want to avoid joining any timber for external use.
 

Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
If I’m reading you correctly?? you want to avoid end grain on top so cut longitudinally with the grain. So green lines.
Also you really want to avoid joining any timber for external use.
Thanks @Jpez, that makes sense. I'll post some photos when I get under way with it.
 

downunderdallas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
This one is now more or less ready for the resin hopefully I'll be able to buy this tomorrow as I have a meeting near a place that sells it...

View attachment 367417
Ok this has taken a lot longer than I would have liked! I am reasonably happy with how it's coming together especially considering how it was going at one point, what I learnt was epoxy will find it's way through the smallest gap! Hopefully will get it finished tomorrow! Oh this end goes against the fence so I didn't bother to finish it properly.
Marri Seat.jpg
 
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