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Likes Dirt
Understood, I've never properly looked into how effective the rpm differences would be, so forgive me there.
And yeah, I often get carried away when sticking to a budget...
Video makers 'post here'
- Thread starter STRETCH JP
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And yeah, I often get carried away when sticking to a budget...
Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Thanks heaps again, got a fair better understanding of RAID configurations now. Ray although that thing you suggested sounds scrumptious it's a fair bit more than my money fund will let me spend. Good to know for the future anyway in case I suddenly become loaded.
Any chance you guys could run over my post #1374, just need to know the details questioned mainly in paragraphs 5 and 6 before I put an order in. Also what would be the ideal rpm for the drive? Is it as simple as faster the better as I assume that effects the speed? I've found a similar one on the msy site that has 5400rpm for about $16 cheaper than the one vtwiz previously posted. Is it worth it to get the more expensive one? Also what is the advantage of getting everything 3.5' SATA compared with 2.5'?
Thanks heaps
Any chance you guys could run over my post #1374, just need to know the details questioned mainly in paragraphs 5 and 6 before I put an order in. Also what would be the ideal rpm for the drive? Is it as simple as faster the better as I assume that effects the speed? I've found a similar one on the msy site that has 5400rpm for about $16 cheaper than the one vtwiz previously posted. Is it worth it to get the more expensive one? Also what is the advantage of getting everything 3.5' SATA compared with 2.5'?
Thanks heaps
Depends which way you are going. If you get a 3.5" enclosure then you need to get a 3.5" drive. If you go for a bus powered 2.5" (these don't need a power supply) enclosure then you need a 2.5" drive. Of the 3.5" drives get the 7200RPM. If you are going to do a lot of traveling then you probably don't want to carry around the larger 3.5" drive and power supply. You could go for this enclosure http://www.macfixit.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1165
The only issue with this is that large capacity 2.5" drives are fairly expensive compared to 3.5".
Sorry, couldn't be arsed to look for post #1374! Perhaps you could cut and paste the questions you want answered?
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Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Shit sorry I meant #1734, so 1 page back haha.
So the only difference between 3.5" and 2.5" drives is that the 2.5" drive is more expensive and doesn't need a power supply (if you get a bus powered one)? I'm assuming a bus powered drive means that when you plug it into the computer like you usually would with whatever port you are using (lets say eSATA) it will charge off the computer whereas a non bus powered drive is a drive where it is powered by an AC power supply into the drive and then you still need to connect it to the computer? Are there any disadvantages apart from the cost? Also what exactly is the 3.5" and 2.5" a measurement of? Obviously the drive but what particular area of it? How much bigger is the 3.5" enclosure compared to the 2.5"?
Sorry for the tonne of questions.
Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Alright so finally stopped being lazy and did a fair bit of research myself. I won't bother posting all the technical side of things seeing as everyone here already knows.
Pretty much decided on getting 2x 1TB Samsung Spinport F3 7200rpm 3.5" SATA HDD and 2x Macally G-S350SUA Hi-Speed eSATA/FireWire 400/USB2.0 Storage Enclosures. I was surprised at how big the enclosures are for the 3.5" drives but to get a 2.5" 1TB SATA drive would cost so much more so I can live with lugging around the larger drives. All of those 4 items equal $200 of Amazon as well so I'm pretty stoked with that. Way cheaper than the Australian sites.
If someone (I'm looking at you 'vtwiz' haha) could have a 5 second check over the Amazon pages for the Samsung drives and the Macally enclosures to make sure I've chosen the correct parts and it will all fit together etc that would be greatly appreciated and I could put the order in straight away.
In the enclosures the drives should be safe enough but I might see if I can find a padded bag for the enclosure just to be safe. If anyone has seen these bags especially made for 3.5" SATA drive enclosures online if you could post the link that would be great. I guess a cheap laptop bag could do if I can't find anything else.
Also found out that my laptop (Dell Inspiron 1564 i5) doesn't have an Expresscard slot of anything like that so I'll be running it via USB 2.0 until I upgrade to a half decent computer.
Pretty much decided on getting 2x 1TB Samsung Spinport F3 7200rpm 3.5" SATA HDD and 2x Macally G-S350SUA Hi-Speed eSATA/FireWire 400/USB2.0 Storage Enclosures. I was surprised at how big the enclosures are for the 3.5" drives but to get a 2.5" 1TB SATA drive would cost so much more so I can live with lugging around the larger drives. All of those 4 items equal $200 of Amazon as well so I'm pretty stoked with that. Way cheaper than the Australian sites.
If someone (I'm looking at you 'vtwiz' haha) could have a 5 second check over the Amazon pages for the Samsung drives and the Macally enclosures to make sure I've chosen the correct parts and it will all fit together etc that would be greatly appreciated and I could put the order in straight away.
In the enclosures the drives should be safe enough but I might see if I can find a padded bag for the enclosure just to be safe. If anyone has seen these bags especially made for 3.5" SATA drive enclosures online if you could post the link that would be great. I guess a cheap laptop bag could do if I can't find anything else.
Also found out that my laptop (Dell Inspiron 1564 i5) doesn't have an Expresscard slot of anything like that so I'll be running it via USB 2.0 until I upgrade to a half decent computer.
Gluey_trails
Likes Dirt
Fixed the quality / Made it better
[video=vimeo;17728824]http://vimeo.com/17728824[/video]
[video=vimeo;17728824]http://vimeo.com/17728824[/video]
All looks good.
As you are going for 2 drives now, you might want to consider a dual bay enclosure so both disks are in the one enclosure. They are a little more expensive but the dual bay enclosures generally have RAID capabilities too.
Other than that, they are great prices you found and will build up to being nice drives.
As for a case for them, I use Peli cases for my mobile edit suite. They are expensive but fantastic quality and watertight. You can get a similar 'knock off' from bunnings ( http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_kincrome-large-safe-case_2622.aspx) which should be just as good at a fraction of the price. The great thing is that they come with customizable foam inserts that will protect your drives nicely (actually, nothing will protect your drives better than these for the price). You should be able to get both drives in the one case.
Gluey, nice little vid. Would have liked to have seen the rider in frame over the last jump though ........ or maybe that would be too obvious!?
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Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
On a more camera related note what are people's opinion on the Vivitar 7mm f/3.5 Series 1 lens. I was pretty set on the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 but after seeing a couple of sample videos maybe the Vivitar could bring a bit more variety to my filming and allow me to film other sports (skateboarding would be a good example) more effectively seeing as it is a fisheye rather than just an ultra-wide angle lens.
Disadvantages would be that the image quality in general isn't as good in comparison to the Tokina and focus wouldn't be so sharp and crisp. Also doesn't have AF (which wouldn't be a great deal for filming) and it would be quite the pickle (just about impossible to my knowledge) to mount a filter on it.
For $250 cheaper however I think it could provide some entertainment and variety. When used in the right opportunities it could look swell. Anyone know of any similar lenses to the Vivitar? Thoughts on what I just said?
EDIT: Thanks heaps vtwiz. I think for what I'm using them for having two separate drives might be better. I will only be travelling with one so having the larger case for both would be more of a problem. Also whilst travelling if I happen to drop the case, rain gets into it, elephant steps on it etc at least only one drive would be screwed and I'd still have all my footage back at home. Thanks heaps once again, really appreciated. I'll fill you in on how it all goes
Ahh also for the cases my dad has many of them for his powertools so I might see if I can tax one of them for travelling and customise it for the drive by cutting a slot in the foam for the drive. Thanks heaps again, good idea.
Disadvantages would be that the image quality in general isn't as good in comparison to the Tokina and focus wouldn't be so sharp and crisp. Also doesn't have AF (which wouldn't be a great deal for filming) and it would be quite the pickle (just about impossible to my knowledge) to mount a filter on it.
For $250 cheaper however I think it could provide some entertainment and variety. When used in the right opportunities it could look swell. Anyone know of any similar lenses to the Vivitar? Thoughts on what I just said?
EDIT: Thanks heaps vtwiz. I think for what I'm using them for having two separate drives might be better. I will only be travelling with one so having the larger case for both would be more of a problem. Also whilst travelling if I happen to drop the case, rain gets into it, elephant steps on it etc at least only one drive would be screwed and I'd still have all my footage back at home. Thanks heaps once again, really appreciated. I'll fill you in on how it all goes
Ahh also for the cases my dad has many of them for his powertools so I might see if I can tax one of them for travelling and customise it for the drive by cutting a slot in the foam for the drive. Thanks heaps again, good idea.
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Actually Nick there a few things you have confused.
You don't need AF on a fisheye. It has a focus range from 0.2m to infinity. That means everything after 0.2m is in focus.
All the fisheye lenses in this price range are the same lens with different brand names, Samyung, Opteka etc. I know one says 6mm and another 8mm but really they are all just 180 degree diganoal fish eye's.
Considering the quality, which it quite high for the price of the lens then i doubt you could find a better lens for shooting action sports in that price range.
Personally i have my kit lens, then i purchased a 50mm 1.8 for portraits and DOF shots, then an Opteka fisheye is my next addition. After that i will probably go for a long zoom lens.
I would suggest you go out and shoot and find out what extra lenses you need.
Like... damn i wish i could get this shot....but i would need a fisheye or a zoom lens
The lens you say this about most is the next lens you should get IMO.
You don't need AF on a fisheye. It has a focus range from 0.2m to infinity. That means everything after 0.2m is in focus.
All the fisheye lenses in this price range are the same lens with different brand names, Samyung, Opteka etc. I know one says 6mm and another 8mm but really they are all just 180 degree diganoal fish eye's.
Considering the quality, which it quite high for the price of the lens then i doubt you could find a better lens for shooting action sports in that price range.
Personally i have my kit lens, then i purchased a 50mm 1.8 for portraits and DOF shots, then an Opteka fisheye is my next addition. After that i will probably go for a long zoom lens.
I would suggest you go out and shoot and find out what extra lenses you need.
Like... damn i wish i could get this shot....but i would need a fisheye or a zoom lens
The lens you say this about most is the next lens you should get IMO.
The Vivitar Fisheye is a good lens for the price but isn't a replacement for the Tokina 11-16. The great thing about the Tokina is that it has minimal distortion, is very sharp and is fast at f2.8.
The Vivitar is a different beast in that it is more of an 'effect' lens. You couldn't really use it for everything as the fisheye effect, i find, gets pretty tiresome quickly.
The Tokina, on the other hand, is very useful and you could shoot all day with it as it looks 'normal'.
Yes, the Tokina is much more expensive but if you want a fantastic wide angle lens get the Tokina. If you want a Fisheye go with the Vivitar.
The Vivitar is a different beast in that it is more of an 'effect' lens. You couldn't really use it for everything as the fisheye effect, i find, gets pretty tiresome quickly.
The Tokina, on the other hand, is very useful and you could shoot all day with it as it looks 'normal'.
Yes, the Tokina is much more expensive but if you want a fantastic wide angle lens get the Tokina. If you want a Fisheye go with the Vivitar.
Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Yeah the Tokina would not be a replacement at all. Even in the future I might still get one. Currently I think fisheye would add a bit more flair to my video's. I'll do more filming before I decide but.
Does anyone have any other options similar to the Samyang/Rokinon/Vivitar/Polar/Bower/Opteka/Falcon fisheyes (which are all the same).
Does anyone have any other options similar to the Samyang/Rokinon/Vivitar/Polar/Bower/Opteka/Falcon fisheyes (which are all the same).
Gluey_trails
Likes Dirt
I'm running a canon 15mm 2.8 fisheye.... it's super crisp. Just don't drop it
Gluey_trails
Likes Dirt
Sam.
Eats Squid
It would be a waste of money to buy one to use on a crop body when he can already achieve similar results by borrowing someone's kit lens, 5dmkII yes, 7d, 550d, 60d etc nooooo. Have a go of my 10-17 toky tomorrow Nick and you'll really notice the difference between 10 and 15mm. That isn't to discount the 15mm fish as a great lens though Will, I just think money can be better spent.
Nick53
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Yeah both points taken. I really liked the Tokina 10-17 when I used it today, really sweet lens and rate it highly. In saying that if I was going to spend $570 on that lens I'd probably just spend $20 extra and get the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. Yeah it isn't a fisheye but 11mm is still pretty wide and f/2.8 is pretty sweet compared to the f/4.5 on the Tokina fish. At the moment anyway I think the Vivitar 7mm f/3.5 fish (or the other five thousand versions of the identical lens) seems pretty rad. Yeah the optical quality probably won't be as good but for the price I think it would be hard to look past and it seems like quite a fun lens.
Also went for my first time shooting riding today with the new camera. I have lots to learn but certainly enjoy the challenge, variety and reward of filming with a DSLR. It will take me a while to get an edit worth posting together.
Anyway main problem is that my 60d produces a constant 'hiss' noise when recording (even when there is no noise whatsoever). Luckily it didn't matter today because there were thousands of cicadas but it is a complete pain in the ass. I even use a Rode Videomic but to be honest it doesn't help at all and if anything magnifies the problem. To my knowledge there is only one menu in the 60d which has an effect on the sound. That is the 'sound recording' menu. When you click on that you have 3 options. Sound recording (Auto, Manual or Disable), Recording level (which is just a bar which alters how loud the overall noise is) and Wind Filter which goes away as soon as I put the Rode microphone in anyway. There is also a dB meter at the bottom. On the Rode Videomic there is a low or high pass filter option and also this switch (they call it a PAD switch). The switch can provide either a 10dB or 20dB reduction in sensitivity. I've mucked around with a lot of these settings but the hiss remains.
Any help would be the best.
Also went for my first time shooting riding today with the new camera. I have lots to learn but certainly enjoy the challenge, variety and reward of filming with a DSLR. It will take me a while to get an edit worth posting together.
Anyway main problem is that my 60d produces a constant 'hiss' noise when recording (even when there is no noise whatsoever). Luckily it didn't matter today because there were thousands of cicadas but it is a complete pain in the ass. I even use a Rode Videomic but to be honest it doesn't help at all and if anything magnifies the problem. To my knowledge there is only one menu in the 60d which has an effect on the sound. That is the 'sound recording' menu. When you click on that you have 3 options. Sound recording (Auto, Manual or Disable), Recording level (which is just a bar which alters how loud the overall noise is) and Wind Filter which goes away as soon as I put the Rode microphone in anyway. There is also a dB meter at the bottom. On the Rode Videomic there is a low or high pass filter option and also this switch (they call it a PAD switch). The switch can provide either a 10dB or 20dB reduction in sensitivity. I've mucked around with a lot of these settings but the hiss remains.
Any help would be the best.
The hiss is probably the AGC (AutoGainControl). It will get worse when it is quiet as the camera automatically raises the audio recording level as it tries to lift what little sound there is, creating a hiss. You can turn the AGC off but when you do, also make sure you turn the record level down. The pre amps on these DSLR's are not great so you want to turn them down as much as possible.
The other thing it could be is the IS motors in the lens. With IS turned on, I can hear the motors when there is very little ambient noise. Try turning the IS on your lens off and see if that helps.
I'd like to see this comparison with the same shot.
Gluey_trails
Likes Dirt
Will do. Fact of the matter though, I dropped the lens and fucked up the focusing system inside. Need to send it off. BUT, it still functions as long as I'm at the right distance from the subject. Can do for you tonight though
.On another note: Ordered Z-Finder X 3 Pro.