What is your photo setup?
- Thread starter WynterPlace
- Start date
Interesting...
Extreme Hucker
Likes Dirt
Hahahaha ^^^
Dreggsy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I think i might have the numbers wrong 17-40 is most probably a 1.8
and it is. 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
bloody cameras, too many numbers for everything.
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Extreme Hucker
Likes Dirt
17-40 f/4 i believe
Daneel
Likes Dirt
Running a 400D with a 24-70 f/2.8L on it at the moment, although I just sold the body and shitty kit lenses for $300 and i'm trading up to a 550D body (import). It's only costing me $295 on top of the $300 from selling my 400D body - $595 all up. Plus then I can sell the body for when the 5D MarkIII comes out and trade up to that 
Full frame sensor here I come!
I honestly have to say to everyone interested in getting better photos out of their cameras, a better lens that is suited to what you want to do will improve your shots markedly. I used to shoot with the 18-55 kit lens before I bought this lens, and my photos have just taken off with the better glass. It removes the limitations you get with the kit lens and everything is just so much sharper.
I would wholeheartedly recommend a better lens over a more expensive body any day of the week. Plus you can always keep a lens and upgrade the body later if it starts restricting you, but to be honest, everything on the market these days is amazing, there are no bad choices.
If you're after a sweet medium-grade bang-for-buck lens for Canon EF-S cameras, then check out the new 15-85 USM lens from Canon (review here). You can pick one up for $800 with some bargaining at JB Hi-Fi and is a fantastic lens for the price - very versatile, good IS and quite sharp too.
Full frame sensor here I come!I honestly have to say to everyone interested in getting better photos out of their cameras, a better lens that is suited to what you want to do will improve your shots markedly. I used to shoot with the 18-55 kit lens before I bought this lens, and my photos have just taken off with the better glass. It removes the limitations you get with the kit lens and everything is just so much sharper.
I would wholeheartedly recommend a better lens over a more expensive body any day of the week. Plus you can always keep a lens and upgrade the body later if it starts restricting you, but to be honest, everything on the market these days is amazing, there are no bad choices.
If you're after a sweet medium-grade bang-for-buck lens for Canon EF-S cameras, then check out the new 15-85 USM lens from Canon (review here). You can pick one up for $800 with some bargaining at JB Hi-Fi and is a fantastic lens for the price - very versatile, good IS and quite sharp too.
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I have a Canon 550D but I find the standard 18-55 lens that came with to be lacking when it comes to taking good clear riding shots, so now I'm after a better lens that is good for action shots. Does anyone have any recommendations? Also what shooting mode/setting is the best to use in this case?
Jaydawgz
Likes Dirt
How much are you looking at spending?
If your new to it all, try using TV(Time Value). With this you can choose the shutter speed and then work your way from there.
Anywhere up to $1000. Hmm.. I'll check it out, cheers!
Daneel
Likes Dirt
Kokentoe: Said it above, and I'll say it again
Canon's EF-S 15-85 is fantasic and an amazingly versatile lens for the money. You can easily get the lens plus a decent UV or polarising filter for under $1000 -more like $900, depending on the filter you choose..
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Cheers mate! So this is a wide angle zoom lens correct? Do you know what the differences are between the telephoto zoom lenses when it comes to action shots?Kokentoe: Said it above, and I'll say it again
gear and stuff
1)build quality - better dust/weather protection
2)constant verses variable apertures - when you zoom the widest aperture changes on consumer lenses,on pro models its constant either 2.8 or 4
3)focus speed - some will track fast action coming towards you really well others wont
4)widest aperture - the wider aperture 2.8 or 4 will allow faster shutter speeds to stop action.
All said and done there is a lot of BS about camera gear.......these days most dslrs are fantasticly good!! ditto newer lenses.........most people would be hard pressed to tell a shot ,taken in decent sunlight,between a D3s/D300/D700/D7000...........best advice for better shots is learn to use what you got...get surfing the net.........buying a piano doesnt make you instantly a pianist!!
on flash triggers ,the cheaper ebay type triggers do work - probably less reliably in some case but they still work albeit with probably not the functionality of the latest pocket wizards (which were only recently created for Nikon to do iTTL/autoFP etc)......so if you just need a 'trigger' they do work at a fraction of the cost of PWizards and unless your a pro be hard to justify the bucks for PW.
I use Pixel TR331's (ebay) they do everything I need - autoFP synch for high shutter synch speed,they do iTTL,they are a third the price of PWs...........one thing they dont do is allow you to have full control of the remotes from the camera menu that the prop Nikon CLS system gives you - you can change the flash exposure value for all the flashes from the camera but not individual units - that doesnt bother me since if I'm this picky I will walk over to the remote and change it!!
hope this helps....like anything else,practice is better than throwing big bucks at camera gear ! saying that I just bought a 300mm f2.8 VR....ouch!!
the main difference between the pro lenses and consumer telephoto zoom lenses are :
1)build quality - better dust/weather protection
2)constant verses variable apertures - when you zoom the widest aperture changes on consumer lenses,on pro models its constant either 2.8 or 4
3)focus speed - some will track fast action coming towards you really well others wont
4)widest aperture - the wider aperture 2.8 or 4 will allow faster shutter speeds to stop action.
All said and done there is a lot of BS about camera gear.......these days most dslrs are fantasticly good!! ditto newer lenses.........most people would be hard pressed to tell a shot ,taken in decent sunlight,between a D3s/D300/D700/D7000...........best advice for better shots is learn to use what you got...get surfing the net.........buying a piano doesnt make you instantly a pianist!!
on flash triggers ,the cheaper ebay type triggers do work - probably less reliably in some case but they still work albeit with probably not the functionality of the latest pocket wizards (which were only recently created for Nikon to do iTTL/autoFP etc)......so if you just need a 'trigger' they do work at a fraction of the cost of PWizards and unless your a pro be hard to justify the bucks for PW.
I use Pixel TR331's (ebay) they do everything I need - autoFP synch for high shutter synch speed,they do iTTL,they are a third the price of PWs...........one thing they dont do is allow you to have full control of the remotes from the camera menu that the prop Nikon CLS system gives you - you can change the flash exposure value for all the flashes from the camera but not individual units - that doesnt bother me since if I'm this picky I will walk over to the remote and change it!!
hope this helps....like anything else,practice is better than throwing big bucks at camera gear ! saying that I just bought a 300mm f2.8 VR....ouch!!
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Wall in focus,bike out of focus!
Dreggsy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
yeah that's my "thing" try not to imitate it.
have you tried any of water splashes yet?
here's a couple of mine.
http://dreggsy.smugmug.com/Events/Random-Snapshots/15611261_Hh7SC#1169728959_V9kj2
Daneel
Likes Dirt
Yep, this would be classified as a wide-angle zoom.
For shooting in daylight, there's no real difference between a wide angle lens and a telephoto, except for the distance to the subject obviously. Where you'll generally find a difference is in lower light, where the (generally) wider aperture of wide angle lenses let you take photos more easily (ie, wide lens with an f-stop of 3.2 vs maybe 4.5 or higher for a telephoto).
A better question to ask is 'what distance will I usually be shooting my subject from?' and go from there.. The reason a lot of sports photographers have telephoto lenses is because they're usually at events where they're 50 metres or more away from the action and still want to get their subject full-frame. If that's you, then go telephoto. If you're going to be 2-10 metres from your subject, then wide angle is the go.
WynterPlace
Likes Bikes and Dirt
How do you time the shot? Is it just luck, and lots of practice?
Dreggsy
Likes Bikes and Dirt
lots of shots, just geting your focus right to start with.
it was the first time i tried it, after watching a tutorial on the youtubes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwExpFDUC9Y
i used my bike workstand to attach a sandwich bag to, you do need a tripod
WynterPlace
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Cool, i've got the tripod, and can rig up the sandwich bag another way... i'll use the remote shutter release from my laptop rather than pressing the button by hand. I 'spose that's always the beauty of digital photography, you can take a million shots to get it right and it doesn't matter... No film, no prints, no worries!
I'm going to try and do some product shots tonight as practice for a job. Got any tips?
I'm thinking i'll have a reflective surface underneath, probably clear polycarb/glass, with different coloured substrate underneath to see what works. Shoot through umbrella and some white reflector panels to direct my lighting.
I'm going to try and do some product shots tonight as practice for a job. Got any tips?
I'm thinking i'll have a reflective surface underneath, probably clear polycarb/glass, with different coloured substrate underneath to see what works. Shoot through umbrella and some white reflector panels to direct my lighting.
Booost
Likes Bikes and Dirt
The thing you have to also take into account is shooting at a long zoom (70-200mm for example) will produce a much more 'compressed image' where an out of focus background appears much closer to the subject, an all round nice effect. Shooting with a wide angle lens for downhill anyway is most of the time pointless. I rarely shoot below 50-70mm
WynterPlace
Likes Bikes and Dirt
My studio lens is a Nikon 35mm f1.8, my biggest issue is lighting. I'm pretty new to it all, and have been just running the one flash unit remotely with a shoot-through umbrella, then bouncing with some white reflective panels to eliminate some shadows.
Now I just need to try and avoid the reflection of the umbrella... I'm guessing a softbox would work a lot better?
Now I just need to try and avoid the reflection of the umbrella... I'm guessing a softbox would work a lot better?
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